Jump to content

2015 Chevy 2500HD Drivetrain Vibration

wms2742

By wms2742
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

wms2742 New Member

wms2742

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Chevy Silverardo 2500HD that is about a year old with 14k miles.

 

Since it was a couple of months old it developed a drivetrain vibration, between 30 and 50 MPH. Between these speeds everything is fine until you apply a slight acceleration to the gas, usually when going up a slight grade, the vehicle has a significant vibration in the drivetrain. If you let off the gas, it stops. If you increase the gas until it downshifts, it stops. No vibrations of any kind at faster or slower speeds outside this range.

 

I have had it to the dealer several times over the past 6 months. Each time they have acknowledged the problem.

  • First they thought it was a tire out of balance- Did not fix the problem
  • Then they put it on a lift and took the driveshaft off and claimed the vibration stopped so they rotated the driveshaft 180 degrees and re-installed- Did not fix the problem
  • Then they claimed the drive shaft was defective and ordered a new one- Did not fix the problem.

Today they had thier "transmission guy" test drive it and he determined that it is a know issue GM has with the Fuel Management System and the Cylinder Deactivation System. GM knows about the problem, but to date does not have a fix, and there is nothing they can do to help me. I questioned the Service Manager that I didn't think the 6.0L even had cylinder deactivation (thats a 1500 feature) and he asurred me it did and there is a reading next to the odometer that tells me how many cylinders the engine in running on. When I asked him to show me the indicator he jumped in the truck and said "huh it should be right there", then said "well thats what the mechanic told me".

 

Anybody had or heard of this issue? Anybody know if a 2015 6.0L has cylinder deactivation? Any suggestions are appreciated...

crankman Enthusiast

crankman

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 2015 2500 also you dont have cylinder deactivation. Your service manager should know that. Might search thru the 2500HD section of this forum, there are a few vibration topics that may help you.

Edited by crankman
Nathan79 Enthusiast

Nathan79

Posted
Posted (edited)

You sure he knew you had an HD and not the 6.2? Sheesh..... amazing incompetence.

 

The 6.0 doesn't have AFM.

Edited by Nathan79
  • Like 1
pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Heavy duty GM trucks do not have vibration issues. Just ask some of the experts around here - some will tell you that even 1500 series vibration problems exist only in the minds of their owners. And GM will happily acknowledge that finding. :rolleyes:

HondaHawkGT Senior Enthusiast

HondaHawkGT

Posted
Posted

Could be transmission shudder. Sometimes my truck shudders on WOT runs just before it shifts from 3rd to 4th. 6L80/TCC issue I think.

 

Definitely not AFM related.

  • 7 years later...
Crobinson16 Enthusiast

Crobinson16

Posted
Posted

I know it's been awhile, did you ever figure it out. I'm having the same type of vibration / flutter at the same speeds. 35-55 mph. Doesn't matter what rpm or gear. Ive pulled the rear diff, axles and chewed all bearings, and replaced the joints, it's still there. I'm going to send the drive line out ot check for runout and balance. It feels like converter shudder but doesn't ack like it. I've locked and unlocked the converter and it's makes no difference. 

Guy Sponaugle New Member

Guy Sponaugle

Posted
Posted
On 9/23/2023 at 4:12 AM, Crobinson16 said:

I know it's been awhile, did you ever figure it out. I'm having the same type of vibration / flutter at the same speeds. 35-55 mph. Doesn't matter what rpm or gear. Ive pulled the rear diff, axles and chewed all bearings, and replaced the joints, it's still there. I'm going to send the drive line out ot check for runout and balance. It feels like converter shudder but doesn't ack like it. I've locked and unlocked the converter and it's makes no difference. 

I am with you on this issue. I have been dealing with it since I bought the truck a few years ago. At first I thought it was power steering humming but it has gotten worse and worse. I have a 2014 1500 Denali 6.2L, 6L80E. I have since redone the entire top end deleting the DOD and it still does it. Dealer said they dont know what the noise and vibration is but that I need to replace the entire transmission and converter. It shifts fine though so Im not dropping $7,000 on that just to see if it helps. Please let me know if you find anything and I will do the same. It is definitely not engine related as in my case it does it regardless of engine RPMs. at slower speed its to a point it rattles loudly and at high speeds it it hums and vibrates usually only under slight load like on a gradual hill and under small amount of throttle and I can cause and stop it at any time by applying and removing small amounts of throttle. Ive got new tires, new brakes, and new top end and still it persists. I am thinking U-joints or drive line at this point. or something in connection with those parts.

Guy Sponaugle New Member

Guy Sponaugle

Posted
Posted

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So I took my truck to a local mechanic (not a dealer) they figured it out for me. It ended up being the transmission after all. GM FINALLY admitted the problem too and now offer a cooler running transmission thermostat which I went with another option found on Amazon for 40 bucks that makes the transmission run about 40'F cooler. Basically my fluid was totally burnt despite having paid for a trans service at the dealer just a couple years ago. This time per my mechanics recommendation I had them add a Lucas additive. No more vibration. and no new $7,000 transmission.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...