Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Maybe.

IMO Yes.

The question is:

Do you want to replace it now or later.

Do you want to let the battery tell you when to replace it or do you want to replace it when it's convenient for you ?

Later being on a cold day, in the rain, at night.

 

When the truck doesn't start due to a dead battery and it doesn't bother you to deal with it then, then wait.

I replace batteries at 4 years of age and I'm on the cycle of doing this in the summer.

 

:)

 

Posted

About as long as I ever had on a original one. I always step up to a better Delco when I replace. Usually get at least 5 years out of them.  On my old 95 I could always tell when  it was getting weak by the way it cranked over. On this one it starts so easy it's hard to tell. I'm going to check with my buddy at the dealership and see what kind of deal he will give me on a new Delco. I might go ahead and change it. If not, this fall @ 5 years for sure.

Posted

Costco has the replacement battery for 115.00 and it comes with a 42 month replacement guarantee. They told me if you think it's weak at say 40 months, bring it in for a free replacement, no questions asked.

 

Posted

I ended up going with a Delco. Stepped up to the 94RPG (Professional Gold 800 Amp 42 month replacement). It listed for 199.41. I got it for 150.00 plus taxes (164.39 total). No Costco around here. O'reilly's wanted 222.00  plus tax for a 800 amp battery.  Autozone 222.00 plus tax for a 850 amp AGM. Both with 3 year warranty. I've had good luck with the Delcos. Glad I went ahead and swapped it out. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Like others said, the chain stores have instructions not to change out some batteries and this is one of them.  I changed out both of mine on a 2015  Duramax last month in about 45 minutes.  It is best to change both of them when 1 fails.  The other may not be far behind.  But GM Warranty will not change but the bad one, I prefer to do it right.  The module is just a box with about 5 big eye terminals to have to move out of the way along with 2 fender braces over the top of each battery.  

Posted

My battery bit the dust the other day also.  Went to back the truck out of the garage and it turned over a bit slowly so I started thinking replacement in the near future.  A bit later went to go somewhere and was completely dead.

 

Bought an Interstate from Costco with 42 month warranty and got it installed in about 30 minutes.  Hardest part was jockeying the old battery out once everything was out of the way.  Leave it to GM to make a simple job difficult.

Posted
On 8/9/2016 at 9:52 AM, White LTZ said:

A buddy of mine has the same truck as I do, 2014 Chevy crew LTZ. He is in need of a new battery. He's been to 4 different places (auto parts stores and repair shops) and they have all told him they won't replace the battery and he has to take it to the dealer. Has anyone else experienced this? They say it has to do with the cables and module on top of the battery.

typically after market / independent shops dont like touching batteries that have a fuse block on top of them. 

 

you can replace it yourself if you have some common sense. be careful if you use to much force on the fuse block it can break it and cause issues. 

 

im a tech for a gmc dealership. i dont even unhook the fuse block /cables. i take off the pos short cable, the neg cable , take out the support bar that runs asside the battery. pull the fuse cover off , release the tabs that holds it to the battery , move it out of the way, remove the battery hold down and the bolt holding the surge tank down and you have enough room to remove/replace battery. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My 2015 silverado has a bad battery. Personally thought is would last more than 4 years but after reading everyone else's post, looks like I got good life out of it. Replace it with an interstate AGM battery. Cant believe they cost north of $200 but hopefully this will last 5 plus years. Definitely more difficult than it should be but the basic DIy'er can tackle this task no problem. 

20190909_183050.jpg

Edited by Truston Gunter
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 8/12/2016 at 7:47 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

I think the issue is you have to remove that structural cross member that attaches to the fender in order to be able to lift the battery out and they don't want to touch anything except for the battery itself. You know because out of all of that engine bay space, GM had to shove the battery in a tight corner like that probably to drive business to dealers which seems to be the logic behind most of the things they do. Your friend, as long has he has a good socket wrench set, should be able to install the battery himself just fine.

 Well  think what you wanna think but putting a heavy a$$ battery more towards the center of gravity and back from being in front of the front wheels will be ok with me anyway. I hardly doubt this move was to drive people into the dealer either. I mean who can’t replace their car battery other than the elderly people that can’t pick up the battery. There is basic things someone should be able to do to acquire a drivers license like change a tire, properly jumpstart a vehicle etc and if said person can do this they really should be able to change a dang battery without all the crying on the dang internet. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...