Jump to content

WT trim with Color DIC, Steering Wheel Controls, IO5 Stereo retrofit.

Darth_Vader
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, richamor said:

If all you want is the steering wheel controls I would guess that you just need to get the wheel and do the wiring. Mine worked with my IO4 unit so I see no reason it wouldn’t work with yours. 

Harltech got it to work on his ios 4.  Ios 4 and up i think it will work.  Iob is awhole different story

  • Like 1
  • Replies 216
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Darth_Vader
Darth_Vader

Well after some work and some digging and some wiring I have finally completed the retrofit of my RCSB Blackout (Which was the WT trim with the small radio) to have the IO5 stereo, Color DIC Gauge Clu

Darth_Vader
Darth_Vader

You have your opinion, which you are entitled to but it doesn't have any value in this thread. This is something that people do want to do for what ever reason, which has no effect on you. You are c

Darth_Vader
Darth_Vader

Finally, after some shipping issues, got the pins in to permanently install the wiring into the gauge cluster connector.   These are the pins for the factory connector:   https://www.amazon.com/gp

Posted Images

David Stevens Enthusiast

David Stevens

Posted
Posted

Here is my scan please confirm the IOB that I am correct

1GCVKPEC7JZ353506,2018,CK15753,05,18,06,VXNV0M, AE7 AXK AY0 C5Z C67 DL8 EF7 E63 FHO FWI GBA H2R IOB I18 JD9 L83 MAH MYC NK5 NTB NZN QT0 RC4 RUF UDC UQ3 U2K V8D WMJ X88 Z60 1CX 4D7 6YB 7YB 8X2 9X2,8555,,,,

 

are there more codes codes after the ,,,,,,,, at the end I tried four QR readers including one that wasn’t free

thanks again

Enough Enthusiast

Enough

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Nasty said:

Iob radios dont have an hmi if i remember right. Dont quote me on this but i dont think theres anything you can do.  You can get nav and backup cam though. From MVI

See the 2 blank tabs in the picture ? That's where the HMI would be if my 2016 WT truck had one.   RPO code IOB, 7 inch color screen. You also have to get creative if you want to add the full floor console since there is no HMI to plug in to.

HMI.JPG

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted
If all you want is the steering wheel controls I would guess that you just need to get the wheel and do the wiring. Mine worked with my IO4 unit so I see no reason it wouldn’t work with yours. 
Wait wait wait. Did you have a wt cluster and added steering wheel controls and did the wiring and it worked? Or did you change cluster and did the wiring while keeping the io4 module?

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

richamor Enthusiast

richamor

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had the IO4 radio and WT DIC cluster. I kept the IO4, replaced the cluster and steering wheel, did the wiring as per instructions, and it worked great. I just changed the radio to the 8” touchscreen with Apple CarPlay and it all works. Backup cam as well.

 

If I remember correctly someone said, because I had to ask, that the steering wheel controls wouldn't work with the WT cluster. So swapping the wheel and cluster is the first order of business.

Edited by richamor
ford5of5 Enthusiast

ford5of5

Posted
Posted

@mloco575, did you say that you got a Denali cluster to work with steering wheel controls in an IO3 truck? That's great! Can you please confirm and provide details? 

  • 3 weeks later...
Dunph Enthusiast

Dunph

Posted
Posted

I am about to do this. 2016 2500hd plow prep IO3. Got my denali cluster from wams, wheel and cluster installed (currently no button backlighting) , and an alpine restyle. Cant grasp how the one wire will make it work, but I also only installed the basics with the alpine. Just need the crimper and pin. ?  

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
I am about to do this. 2016 2500hd plow prep IO3. Got my denali cluster from wams, wheel and cluster installed (currently no button backlighting) , and an alpine restyle. Cant grasp how the one wire will make it work, but I also only installed the basics with the alpine. Just need the crimper and pin. [emoji1696]  

It’s because the one wire is a MOST Serial Data Bus circuit which is a a high speed multimedia network technology used in the automotive industry ([emoji3]copied from Wikipedia).

So this one wire between the steering wheel controls, cluster, and Radio, is responsible for that side of the communication.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mloco575 Enthusiast

mloco575

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dunph said:

I am about to do this. 2016 2500hd plow prep IO3. Got my denali cluster from wams, wheel and cluster installed (currently no button backlighting) , and an alpine restyle. Cant grasp how the one wire will make it work, but I also only installed the basics with the alpine. Just need the crimper and pin. ?  

I was sceptical aswell but it worked in my I03 truck. I figured it was a power wire or something. 

Dunph Enthusiast

Dunph

Posted
Posted

I get that. Thanks for all your help in the past by the way. You have been incredibly helpful! Still not sure how it's going to provide constant power to my steering wheel for the button lights. Also, I don't have an HMI unit I have the idata maestro and the Alpine. The Maestro will need to be pulled and reprogrammed now that I have the buttons. However, if there's no pin in that current hole, im not sure it will work. Mind you I'm not absolutely sure where the signal get sent out of the cluster to this radio if the other 5 wires aren't sending signal. The alpine plugs into the old among other things and may get data there

Dunph Enthusiast

Dunph

Posted
Posted

I just find it hard to believe that  it will provide constant power to the back lighting and be communication  to the cluster. Maybe the communication back from the cluster tells it to turn on? When you installed your Alpine, did you use the extra pigtail that goes in line? I'm going to inspect it tomorrow to see if I can tap into that

Dunph Enthusiast

Dunph

Posted
Posted

Well I got excited and thought I had the right terminals. They're a touch too big. Looks like shipping for these terminals is about 2 weeks from what I can see. I then decided to tear apart  some old electronics to try and find some . No luck. Anyone got a couple they can send me in the mail? I would happily shoot over some beer money

  • 3 weeks later...
Dunph Enthusiast

Dunph

Posted
Posted

*** IO3/ Alpine restyle/ Denali cluster UPDATE ***

I received my Denali cluster again. It was acting up the first time. WAMS fixed it. I added the wire from the wheel to the cluster, and my issue with the steering wheel lights is solved. It was the communication. Next order of business is to reprogram the idata maestro. hopefully I wont need to add the other communication wires, or I can decipher how to run them directly to the maestro unit. The only issue I have, is that it says "Service power steering" every time I start the truck. A minor irritation, but I would like it sorted. Any ideas? 

  • 1 month later...
jonathanbwarren Enthusiast

jonathanbwarren

Posted
Posted

Has anyone who originally had an IO3 and upgraded to IO5/IO6 with an MVI kit been able to add the cluster into the MOST circuit? I have a WAMS-programmed Denali cluster that works on its own and now talks with leather steering wheel after adding LINBUS wire. I’ve added the 5 new MOST wires IN/OUT of the cluster into every possible location between radio, HMI, and CD player but I cannot get it all to work. I have noticed that MVI’s harness kit changes the order of MOST circuit devices. Whereas the GM spec shows Radio->CD Player->HMI->Cluster->Radio the MVI kit is Radio->HMI->CD->Radio. Any help appreciated!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • lanaderay
      5 Best Slide Down Gameplay Tips! 

      By lanaderay · Posted

      Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • lingyuair
      Why I Recommend a Desiccant Air Dryer for Cleaner, Drier Compressed Air

      By lingyuair · Posted

      If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • Another JR
      Remote Start Noise 2024 2500 HD Gas

      By Another JR · Posted

      I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...