Jump to content

Many apologies; new member, as of today, with a front suspension quest

elton077

By elton077
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

elton077 Enthusiast

elton077

Posted
Posted

Greetings, all.

I'm very, very new to this particular forum, but not nearly to GM forums in general. (I have no problem in admitting that I was an active member of GM j-body forums...for more than one vehicle. :) ) Although I've got good experience around pickups in general, this is the first pickup I've personally owned that's new/decent/nice.

Long story short, I want to get rid of this not-to-my-liking front end rake. That said, I've already bought the Rancho QuickLift leveling struts (and rear RS9000XL shocks to match) for my new-to-me 2014 Z71 4X4. My only newbie question is this...

I've researched several Internet sources, and have taken a look under my truck. It really does look as if it's as easy as dropping the factory front strut assembly down through the lower A-arm without removing or loosening anything other than strut assembly bolts. Can it really be this easy?

Again, sorry for such a "noob" question, but I'm looking forward to wrenching on my truck tomorrow morning and sharing photos all along the way! Anxious to become a productive, contributing member of this forum too! Thanks, everyone.

last truck Enthusiast

last truck

Posted
Posted

You will need to compress the spring.

 

and why would he need to do that I believe he has preassembled quick struts, so yes he just needs to unbolt the old ones and bolt in the new ones. I can swap out a side in 15 minutes by just removing the sway bar link and leaving the ball joint together.

elton077 Enthusiast

elton077

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

and why would he need to do that I believe he has preassembled quick struts, so yes he just needs to unbolt the old ones and bolt in the new ones. I can swap out a side in 15 minutes by just removing the sway bar link and leaving the ball joint together.

 

That's correct, last truck. They're the Rancho QuickLift LOADED leveling struts (springs already installed; complete, ready to directly install units.

 

 

You will need to compress the spring.

 

Without having to compress and/or remove any springs form either the original or replacement struts, O_J_Simpson, I'm wondering if it's possible to drop the old unit right out the bottom without having to remove ball joints or even sway bar links?

 

Work has been crazy this week, so I've only been able to start doing very minor upgrades thus far (the truck is getting tinted and fully detailed tomorrow - I'll post a photo when it's done), but I did a little looking under the front of the truck. It looks as if this might be able to be done.

elton077 Enthusiast

elton077

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

That's correct, last truck. They're the Rancho QuickLift LOADED leveling struts (springs already installed; complete, ready to directly install units.

 

 

 

Without having to compress and/or remove any springs form either the original or replacement struts, O_J_Simpson, I'm wondering if it's possible to drop the old unit right out the bottom without having to remove ball joints or even sway bar links?

 

Work has been crazy this week, so I've only been able to start doing very minor upgrades thus far (the truck is getting tinted and fully detailed tomorrow - I'll post a photo when it's done), but I did a little looking under the front of the truck. It looks as if this might be able to be done.

Anyone have experience in pulling the factory front strut assemblies out from the bottom - without disconnecting any ball joint and/or swaybar links, etc. - like a weekend driveway boss? :chevy:

 

Although I can't find the original link following all of my research on the subject, I recall a fellow owner once saying that it can indeed be done on our '14/15s. Any confirmation of this fact? If not, I'm totally great with the driveway experimentation, and subsequent "sticky" write-up(s), that I've become renowned for on many other GM forums that I've been fortunate to have participated in.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BCGM
      Remote Start Noise 2024 2500 HD Gas

      By BCGM · Posted

      Okay Punch What year is your truck or did you already mention that ? Can you link the TSB is about that noise ? 
    • newdude
      2027 3.0 l Duramax

      By newdude · Posted

      Thrust bearing is a very small window.  But nice try.   Turbo oil filter?  Haven't seen any failures.  Change your oil more frequently.  Use a better oil than the factory oil.  
    • newdude
      2026 sierra bad brake controller

      By newdude · Posted

      There is a p/n called out in the one PI that GM has.  Curt 57003 inline load adapter that is used for LED trailers that are having trouble with these newer trucks.  No cutting, no splicing, etc.  GM did update the lighting module around 2023 to better pick up trailers with LED lighting, but it still can happen.     Here's the link to the Curt site for it - 7-Way RV Blade LED Electrical Adapter (Not a Wiring Extension) SKU #57003 by CURT   The PI I am referencing - MC-10208985-9999.pdf   Its not just a GM deal either.  Newer Fords and Rams have this same problem.       In another PI, they recommend that the trailer has a Pollock brand 7 way on it as that is who makes the truck sides for the OEMs.  GM is also big on making sure the trailer is trouble free.  So no wiring issues, all lights are functional, better quality 7 way plug, etc.     The other PI I am referencing - MC-10178359-9999.pdf   The model year range is older but it is the current PI for 2014-2026.  It calls out the Pollock RV HD 7 way they recommend.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      That's part of the problem...the EGR has already been replaced, and I've already had the complete intake assembly removed, and the EGR passages were clear at that time. That leaves wiring, PCM, or another variable that I wasn't expecting. Best I can tell, it's not wiring or the PCM, so I'm grasping for straws.   The PCM uses the MAP reading to confirm the requisite loss of vacuum in the manifold when the EGR activates. Since that's vacuum related, it involves a lot of other systems which could play a role.   The overall diagnosis has to be considered too. The fuel lines in the intake had rubbed through and were dumping fuel into the intake, drowning the cylinders in fuel, and putting raw fuel into the sump and cat converter. The fuel system has been fixed but the complete path of damage may not be. If the cat was damaged and melted the internals, it could be partially obstructed and also playing into the EGR issue.   I'm retracing my steps; trying to go back to thinking thinking Horses not Zebras based on the clues I've been given. These engines aren't *that* complex.   Could it be, now that the truck is running well, that carbon and crud from being run with the fuel system in disarray is now dislodging and clogged my clean EGR passages where I can't see?  That's what the code is actually saying. The flow is restricted, dummy. Retrace step 1.   I may just need to remove the lower intake again. Before I do that I'm going to try removing the EGR and running the engine for a few seconds to see if it will blow anything lodged in the egr passages out through the open ports.     That's been helpful in the past. For the spider injector, there's no guarantee I'll get a working one. The spider I have seems fine now that the high pressure fuel line isn't making an early delivery via large hole. SO at least I'm not marooned and looking for one of those.   Row52 (dot com) is also a good one for watching for vehicles at local yards.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Disassembly may be Required!   Every blender makes claims but do  you ponder those claims? What was really said? Was it true?  Motive for saying it? What does in infer?  Is that inference true?    Let's do one.    Claim: Made from shear stable base oils.    What was said: Base Oils are shear proof.   Was it true: Yes.  ALL base oils are Newtonian.    Motive / Inference: To imply the fully formulated product is Shear Proof.    Is the Inference true?: Most fully formulated multigrade oils contain Viscosity Modifiers or VM's, sometimes called VII or Viscosity Index Improvers. There are four types. One is in fact shear proof but it also has a bad effect on extreme cold flow and is restricted to use in specialty oils. A second has limited shear called a 0-5 SSI polymer. Meaning its shear is limited to a range of zero to five percent as reported by the ASTM D6278 Shear Stability Index test. A few high end oils, like Torco SR-5, use them and brag about it profusely. Actually all that use it point it out. The last two shear dramatically and are often marketed as a 'feature' of the product aiding the oil to meet fuel standard requirements of ever stricter rules. One shears more than 5% and the other up to 20%. As you make guess, cost is directly linked to shear down and as such the majority of oils use the cheapest organic polymers sold to make grade and pass stringent tests.    PPD's or Pour Point Depressants also shear a bit, only a few percent and hide inside the 0-5 SSI capabilities.    The blender knows he can not out engineer Stribeck. Physics is not a suggestion. But he can wordcraft the unsuspecting toward believing a false claims INFERENCE. This is LEGAL. It is COMMON, and it is EFFECTIVE.         

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...