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Ordered a whipple! Anyone that's got any tips or insight plea


Denali62

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Posted

I've looked at my trucks situation with the winch firsthand today also along with the pics in the whipple install manual and I think maybe I have enough room to mount the tank that comes with the kit. Sorry if this makes no cents it's late hahaha

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Posted

If you do that put a mark on the nut for the yoke and on the pinion shaft and count the threads for reference to make sure you don't over tighten it. Tighten it slightly past where it is now.

Posted

You guys think I can get away with changing the yoke and zipping it back together with an impact and call it done instead of replacing the crush sleeve?

Yep, not a big issue. I'd call East Coast gear and tell them what yoke you need, they will get you the proper conversion seal too. Take the old one off, put the new one on and with the wheels and brakes removed from the axles run the pinion nut down until you have around 20-25 in/lbs of preload on the pinion nut and you should be good to go. I would advise against an impact as you don't want to run it down too far.

Posted

Ok so I emailed east coast gear about setting me up with a 9.5" 1350 yoke with a conversion seal. Fingers crossed

 

 

Me highly valuing my own opinion thinks I could make the 1410 joint work with the 1415 yoke with two .0045 shims. But I'm gonna resist the urge to try anything that can be considered improper.

Posted

Called east coast gear. They are gonna do some digging and try to come up with something.

 

Can't I just use their conversion seal with any 9.5 12 bolt yoke ?

Posted

I think I'm just gonna send my shaft back in and have it set up for a 1415 and be done w it

Posted

I think the issue is that the new 12 bolts have a different spline count on the pinion so there may not be a lot of people creating yokes yet. I had to do a yoke swap on my new gears because the ratio I put in didn't exist in the 12 bolts so I've technically got a 14 bolt ring and pinion with yoke, which means I have a lot more yoke options. I for sure wouldn't try to run mix matched u-joints, that is a recipe for disaster. You might try emailing Yukon gears too, if anyone has created one it's probably them. I would try and keep the 1350's and get a new yoke as you'll have an easier time find parts with that series of U-joints.

Posted

Still working on a fix. Tom woods is saying it's pretty much impossible until an aftermarket yoke is developed. He is still trying to dig. Anyone know of a custom machine shop that could whip one up?

Posted

Yukon is making 3.73's and 4.56's for our 12 Bolt 9.5 axles.

 

RT

The Yukon 4.56 gears I have are for the 14 bolt, didn't have a 12 bolt set yet.

Posted

That's just the the thing. I plan on a set of the o.e. 4.10's in the very near future. Not that there is anything wrong with the spacer and conversion bearings/14b ring gear setup just I figure someone is about to come out with some yoke options.

Keep in mind I have a 4.56 first gear

Posted

Your data is correct although I'm not sure but think the 8l90 has no 1:1 exact on the nose correct me if I'm wrong

Sixth gear is 1:1 in the 8L90. 7th and 8th are OD. The truck will hit 100mph at the tippy top of 4th gear with a 3.23 and factory tires. 6000rpm / 1.69 = 3550 driveshaft rpm.
Posted

Yes if you have a manual trans that equation is permissible. But the converter is not turning the input shaft the exact same speed as the crankshaft unless the tcc is locked.

Best to just start from the other end and work it out as the tires are directly connected to the driveshaft through the diff

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