Jump to content

Travel trailer recommendations

Donstar

By Donstar
in Towing, Hauling & Hitches

Recommended Posts

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

What I saw (online source) was misrepresenting the 6.2 without the nht as a max tow package. Never the less, it's not 400lbs greater than the standard truck, at least in the short bed 4x4 LT. it's actually about 200lbs according to the Silverado brochure for Northern America.

 

b483bbc6d19c97dde4badb067922b264.jpg

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Help%20Center/Download%20a%20Brochure/02_PDFs/GMXS15CT400_2015%20Silverado%20LD%20Catalog_REPRINT.pdf

 

All that said. 2500 series truck is still much more appealing for the tow duties in my home. (7500 trailer 5 ppl and 2 dogs.)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply
sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

And let's not forget that we over inflate the 1500 numbers to sell trucks...

 

It's all a game...

 

Good discussion, I know I'm a lot less with all my stuff. But I'd rather tow with a 2500 just because that's what I'm used to...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

2017HD Enthusiast

2017HD

Posted
Posted

What I saw (online source) was misrepresenting the 6.2 without the nht as a max tow package. Never the less, it's not 400lbs greater than the standard truck, at least in the short bed 4x4 LT. it's actually about 200lbs according to the Silverado brochure for Northern America.

 

b483bbc6d19c97dde4badb067922b264.jpg

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Help%20Center/Download%20a%20Brochure/02_PDFs/GMXS15CT400_2015%20Silverado%20LD%20Catalog_REPRINT.pdf

 

All that said. 2500 series truck is still much more appealing for the tow duties in my home. (7500 trailer 5 ppl and 2 dogs.)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The NHT is only available with the 5.3L engine and includes the 3.73 rear gears. So from this chart the 6.2L with 3.42 rear gears has a greater tow capacity by 900 lbs. That said I think I would prefer the beefier rear end that comes with the NHT. Also the 5.3 can run on regular fuel, the 6.2 requires premium. I also agree that a 2500 is probably a better choice for long distance/term towing.

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

I'm totally stumped. I was told the max tow only came in the US as the 6.2. Or maybe it was the configuration I was looking at ccsb? Dunno

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2017HD Enthusiast

2017HD

Posted
Posted

It looks like it comes both ways If you have an LTZ then you can get the NHT with the 6.2. In the case of the 6.2 it comes with the 3.42 rear gears and with the 5.3 it is a 3.73. It would be interesting to see if the 6.2L version has the 9.76" rear axle.

Max Trailering Package, On Crew

Cab and Double Cab models,

includes 9.76" rear axle, (JL1) trailer

brake controller, enhanced cooling

radiator, revised shock tuning for

increased control, heavier duty rear

springs and increased RGAWR

1 - LT Includes (G80) heavy-duty

automatic locking rear differential

and Z82 Trailering Package.

Requires (L83) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8

engine and (DPN) outside heated

power-adjustable vertical camper

mirrors. Includes (PZX) 18" x 8.5"

bright-machined aluminum wheels

with (RKX) 18" tires or may upgrade

to (RD4) 20" aluminum wheels with

either (RC7) or (QSS) 20" tires.

2 .- LTZ With (L83) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8

engine, requires (PZX) 18" x 8.5"

aluminum wheels and (RKX) 18"

tires or may upgrade to (RD2) 20"

chrome wheels with either (RC7) or

(QSS) 20" tires. With (L86) 6.2L

EcoTec3 V8 engine, requires (RD2)

20" chrome wheels with (QSS) 20"

tires. Requires (DQS) Outside

heated power-adjustable vertical

camper mirrors. Not available with

(Z71) Off-Road Suspension

Package.

 

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

The 6.2 is only available with the LTZ trim package. It is also only available currently, with the 8 spd trans, hence the 3:42 gear instead of the 3:73 gear that comes with the 5.3/6spd. All NHT trucks have the 9.76" rear axle.

gmckenzie Enthusiast

gmckenzie

Posted
Posted

And let's not forget that we over inflate the 1500 numbers to sell trucks...

 

It's all a game...

 

Good discussion, I know I'm a lot less with all my stuff. But I'd rather tow with a 2500 just because that's what I'm used to...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

My point is that if you are running out of payload with a NHT half ton, consider stepping up to a 1 ton. They are priced pretty close to a 3/4 but are a major upgrade in payload. The difference between my 1/2 ton and a similar 3/4 ton with a diesel is not enough.

 

My NHT payload per brochure 2,210 Sticker 2,015

3/4 ton diesel similar setup (6.6 bed) 2583 (from the link on the last page)

1 ton diesel same as 3/4 ton (6.6 SRW) 4080

1 ton diesel DRW 8 ft 5002

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

 

My point is that if you are running out of payload with a NHT half ton, consider stepping up to a 1 ton. They are priced pretty close to a 3/4 but are a major upgrade in payload. The difference between my 1/2 ton and a similar 3/4 ton with a diesel is not enough.

 

My NHT payload per brochure 2,210 Sticker 2,015

3/4 ton diesel similar setup (6.6 bed) 2583 (from the link on the last page)

1 ton diesel same as 3/4 ton (6.6 SRW) 4080

1 ton diesel DRW 8 ft 5002

There is a significant difference in price between alike trucks going from 1500--->3500. Not to mention a dually isn't very practical unless you haul all the time. How will I ever get a Big Mac champ? You expect me to park and go inside? Ha! (That's all a joke, sir). I see your point about if you're considering going and buying a truck to tow a sizable camper trailer (maybe 24+ ft) that it's only about 10-15% more to get a 2500 truck. It's better equipped for hauling and towing. I don't see the point of a 3500 truck for the common camper family unless you're going goose.

 

Just my opinion. Still trying to figure out my options with my 1500. (Probably just bagging the rear axle) I'm not at capacity but close conservatively speaking.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

gmckenzie Enthusiast

gmckenzie

Posted
Posted

There is a significant difference in price between alike trucks going from 1500--->3500. Not to mention a dually isn't very practical unless you haul all the time. How will I ever get a Big Mac champ? You expect me to park and go inside? Ha! (That's all a joke, sir). I see your point about if you're considering going and buying a truck to tow a sizable camper trailer (maybe 24+ ft) that it's only about 10-15% more to get a 2500 truck. It's better equipped for hauling and towing. I don't see the point of a 3500 truck for the common camper family unless you're going goose.

 

Just my opinion. Still trying to figure out my options with my 1500. (Probably just bagging the rear axle) I'm not at capacity but close conservatively speaking.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Except what often happens is someone comes to the conclusion (like the OP) that the truck they have is not enough for the trailer they want (in this case a 5th wheel) and starts looking. Having come from a 2001 2500HD Duramax, I know they are awfully appealing to drive as a tow vehicle. So they can get talked into one pretty quickly, not realizing it is not that much of a PAYLOAD upgrade. It is a better truck, no question. But put a decent sized 5th wheel on it and you will be over your payload rating very quick. That's when a 1 ton makes more sense.

 

The 2500HD gas has a decent payload if you don't get talked into the diesel option.

 

I'm like you. I'm close on payload (was about 7,550 when I was loaded going over a scale) and looking to make a minor change, more to reduce the porpoising than anything. I'm reading interesting things about bagging and it limiting how your overload springs engage. Not sure if this is an issue on ours or not. I need to find out before spring comes. Wife didn't like the bouncing between Jasper and Banff so I have free reign to fix it.

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

keep in mind you want to have at a minimum of 700 pounds as a tongue weight for your 7000 pound trailer. Ideally, you want to say 10 to 15% of the gross weight on the tongue.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

gmckenzie Enthusiast

gmckenzie

Posted
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

 

Ignore the hitch weight rating on the brochures. That is with nothing in the trailer, no batteries or propane. Estimate it at 12-15% of loaded trailer weight. My brochure says 680 for my trailer. Actual scale says 1,050. My trailer is 8,200 fully loaded (per scale), so I'm just under 13% and pretty typical. Your tongue weight could be 840 to 1,000 depending on things that don't seem to be very predictable. Plus be certain on the 7,000. Give yourself some leeway and assume your trailer weight will be the total of the dry weight and carrying capacity.

 

So, given payload of 1675, you could be down to as little as 700 lbs for your gear, plus anything added to you truck like running boards etc. Plus the hitch itself adds 100 pounds. Kinda getting into the range of you won't know until you hook up and take the whole mess over a scale.

 

Bear in mind I have a 2015 NHT rated at 10,800 and I max out with my trailer being 8,200.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

Not for nothing, but my 2016 24' Passport is 3750# dry, 5400# max, and 450ish# tongue (dry)...they do exist. Mine is termed an ultra-lite...aluminum frame, fiberglass skin...

 

The weird part is it has twin 3500# axles and load range C tires (good for about 8000#).

 

Point being, figure out what floor plan you want and visit every manufacturer's website.

 

http://www.keystonerv.com/passport/models/238ml/model-mobile

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

keep in mind you want to have at a minimum of 700 pounds as a tongue weight for your 7000 pound trailer. Ideally, you want to say 10 to 15% of the gross weight on the tongue.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmmph, I'm going to have to redo my home-built 5x8 utility trailer...even with 3 tons in it, I can lift the ball off the hitch by hand.

 

Yep...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

 

Ignore the hitch weight rating on the brochures. That is with nothing in the trailer, no batteries or propane. Estimate it at 12-15% of loaded trailer weight. My brochure says 680 for my trailer. Actual scale says 1,050. My trailer is 8,200 fully loaded (per scale), so I'm just under 13% and pretty typical. Your tongue weight could be 840 to 1,000 depending on things that don't seem to be very predictable. Plus be certain on the 7,000. Give yourself some leeway and assume your trailer weight will be the total of the dry weight and carrying capacity.

 

So, given payload of 1675, you could be down to as little as 700 lbs for your gear, plus anything added to you truck like running boards etc. Plus the hitch itself adds 100 pounds. Kinda getting into the range of you won't know until you hook up and take the whole mess over a scale.

 

Bear in mind I have a 2015 NHT rated at 10,800 and I max out with my trailer being 8,200.

I agree, and here is a perfect example of what I was getting at...you can "tow" 11k, but you can't ever reach that number realistically. And that's getting back to my comment on using those numbers to sell a truck...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 349 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...