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Travel trailer recommendations

Donstar

By Donstar
in Towing, Hauling & Hitches

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Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

What I saw (online source) was misrepresenting the 6.2 without the nht as a max tow package. Never the less, it's not 400lbs greater than the standard truck, at least in the short bed 4x4 LT. it's actually about 200lbs according to the Silverado brochure for Northern America.

 

b483bbc6d19c97dde4badb067922b264.jpg

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Help%20Center/Download%20a%20Brochure/02_PDFs/GMXS15CT400_2015%20Silverado%20LD%20Catalog_REPRINT.pdf

 

All that said. 2500 series truck is still much more appealing for the tow duties in my home. (7500 trailer 5 ppl and 2 dogs.)

 

 

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sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

And let's not forget that we over inflate the 1500 numbers to sell trucks...

 

It's all a game...

 

Good discussion, I know I'm a lot less with all my stuff. But I'd rather tow with a 2500 just because that's what I'm used to...

 

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2017HD Enthusiast

2017HD

Posted
Posted

What I saw (online source) was misrepresenting the 6.2 without the nht as a max tow package. Never the less, it's not 400lbs greater than the standard truck, at least in the short bed 4x4 LT. it's actually about 200lbs according to the Silverado brochure for Northern America.

 

b483bbc6d19c97dde4badb067922b264.jpg

https://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam/Chevrolet/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Help%20Center/Download%20a%20Brochure/02_PDFs/GMXS15CT400_2015%20Silverado%20LD%20Catalog_REPRINT.pdf

 

All that said. 2500 series truck is still much more appealing for the tow duties in my home. (7500 trailer 5 ppl and 2 dogs.)

 

 

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The NHT is only available with the 5.3L engine and includes the 3.73 rear gears. So from this chart the 6.2L with 3.42 rear gears has a greater tow capacity by 900 lbs. That said I think I would prefer the beefier rear end that comes with the NHT. Also the 5.3 can run on regular fuel, the 6.2 requires premium. I also agree that a 2500 is probably a better choice for long distance/term towing.

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

I'm totally stumped. I was told the max tow only came in the US as the 6.2. Or maybe it was the configuration I was looking at ccsb? Dunno

 

 

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2017HD Enthusiast

2017HD

Posted
Posted

It looks like it comes both ways If you have an LTZ then you can get the NHT with the 6.2. In the case of the 6.2 it comes with the 3.42 rear gears and with the 5.3 it is a 3.73. It would be interesting to see if the 6.2L version has the 9.76" rear axle.

Max Trailering Package, On Crew

Cab and Double Cab models,

includes 9.76" rear axle, (JL1) trailer

brake controller, enhanced cooling

radiator, revised shock tuning for

increased control, heavier duty rear

springs and increased RGAWR

1 - LT Includes (G80) heavy-duty

automatic locking rear differential

and Z82 Trailering Package.

Requires (L83) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8

engine and (DPN) outside heated

power-adjustable vertical camper

mirrors. Includes (PZX) 18" x 8.5"

bright-machined aluminum wheels

with (RKX) 18" tires or may upgrade

to (RD4) 20" aluminum wheels with

either (RC7) or (QSS) 20" tires.

2 .- LTZ With (L83) 5.3L EcoTec3 V8

engine, requires (PZX) 18" x 8.5"

aluminum wheels and (RKX) 18"

tires or may upgrade to (RD2) 20"

chrome wheels with either (RC7) or

(QSS) 20" tires. With (L86) 6.2L

EcoTec3 V8 engine, requires (RD2)

20" chrome wheels with (QSS) 20"

tires. Requires (DQS) Outside

heated power-adjustable vertical

camper mirrors. Not available with

(Z71) Off-Road Suspension

Package.

 

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

The 6.2 is only available with the LTZ trim package. It is also only available currently, with the 8 spd trans, hence the 3:42 gear instead of the 3:73 gear that comes with the 5.3/6spd. All NHT trucks have the 9.76" rear axle.

gmckenzie Enthusiast

gmckenzie

Posted
Posted

And let's not forget that we over inflate the 1500 numbers to sell trucks...

 

It's all a game...

 

Good discussion, I know I'm a lot less with all my stuff. But I'd rather tow with a 2500 just because that's what I'm used to...

 

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My point is that if you are running out of payload with a NHT half ton, consider stepping up to a 1 ton. They are priced pretty close to a 3/4 but are a major upgrade in payload. The difference between my 1/2 ton and a similar 3/4 ton with a diesel is not enough.

 

My NHT payload per brochure 2,210 Sticker 2,015

3/4 ton diesel similar setup (6.6 bed) 2583 (from the link on the last page)

1 ton diesel same as 3/4 ton (6.6 SRW) 4080

1 ton diesel DRW 8 ft 5002

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

 

My point is that if you are running out of payload with a NHT half ton, consider stepping up to a 1 ton. They are priced pretty close to a 3/4 but are a major upgrade in payload. The difference between my 1/2 ton and a similar 3/4 ton with a diesel is not enough.

 

My NHT payload per brochure 2,210 Sticker 2,015

3/4 ton diesel similar setup (6.6 bed) 2583 (from the link on the last page)

1 ton diesel same as 3/4 ton (6.6 SRW) 4080

1 ton diesel DRW 8 ft 5002

There is a significant difference in price between alike trucks going from 1500--->3500. Not to mention a dually isn't very practical unless you haul all the time. How will I ever get a Big Mac champ? You expect me to park and go inside? Ha! (That's all a joke, sir). I see your point about if you're considering going and buying a truck to tow a sizable camper trailer (maybe 24+ ft) that it's only about 10-15% more to get a 2500 truck. It's better equipped for hauling and towing. I don't see the point of a 3500 truck for the common camper family unless you're going goose.

 

Just my opinion. Still trying to figure out my options with my 1500. (Probably just bagging the rear axle) I'm not at capacity but close conservatively speaking.

 

 

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Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

gmckenzie Enthusiast

gmckenzie

Posted
Posted

There is a significant difference in price between alike trucks going from 1500--->3500. Not to mention a dually isn't very practical unless you haul all the time. How will I ever get a Big Mac champ? You expect me to park and go inside? Ha! (That's all a joke, sir). I see your point about if you're considering going and buying a truck to tow a sizable camper trailer (maybe 24+ ft) that it's only about 10-15% more to get a 2500 truck. It's better equipped for hauling and towing. I don't see the point of a 3500 truck for the common camper family unless you're going goose.

 

Just my opinion. Still trying to figure out my options with my 1500. (Probably just bagging the rear axle) I'm not at capacity but close conservatively speaking.

 

 

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Except what often happens is someone comes to the conclusion (like the OP) that the truck they have is not enough for the trailer they want (in this case a 5th wheel) and starts looking. Having come from a 2001 2500HD Duramax, I know they are awfully appealing to drive as a tow vehicle. So they can get talked into one pretty quickly, not realizing it is not that much of a PAYLOAD upgrade. It is a better truck, no question. But put a decent sized 5th wheel on it and you will be over your payload rating very quick. That's when a 1 ton makes more sense.

 

The 2500HD gas has a decent payload if you don't get talked into the diesel option.

 

I'm like you. I'm close on payload (was about 7,550 when I was loaded going over a scale) and looking to make a minor change, more to reduce the porpoising than anything. I'm reading interesting things about bagging and it limiting how your overload springs engage. Not sure if this is an issue on ours or not. I need to find out before spring comes. Wife didn't like the bouncing between Jasper and Banff so I have free reign to fix it.

Waaazooo Senior Enthusiast

Waaazooo

Posted
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

keep in mind you want to have at a minimum of 700 pounds as a tongue weight for your 7000 pound trailer. Ideally, you want to say 10 to 15% of the gross weight on the tongue.

 

 

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gmckenzie Enthusiast

gmckenzie

Posted
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

 

Ignore the hitch weight rating on the brochures. That is with nothing in the trailer, no batteries or propane. Estimate it at 12-15% of loaded trailer weight. My brochure says 680 for my trailer. Actual scale says 1,050. My trailer is 8,200 fully loaded (per scale), so I'm just under 13% and pretty typical. Your tongue weight could be 840 to 1,000 depending on things that don't seem to be very predictable. Plus be certain on the 7,000. Give yourself some leeway and assume your trailer weight will be the total of the dry weight and carrying capacity.

 

So, given payload of 1675, you could be down to as little as 700 lbs for your gear, plus anything added to you truck like running boards etc. Plus the hitch itself adds 100 pounds. Kinda getting into the range of you won't know until you hook up and take the whole mess over a scale.

 

Bear in mind I have a 2015 NHT rated at 10,800 and I max out with my trailer being 8,200.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

I checked my payload and it is 1625 lbs. If I keep to trailer choice to a maximum rating of 7,000 lbs then I should be fine, correct? A 24' Jayco, for example, has a maximum load rating of 7,000 lbs. If I allow 700 lbs for hitch weight, then I am left with 900 lbs. of additional load capacity in the truck. The trailers I am looking at max out at less than 7,000 lbs. It is just my wife and I (and little dog) that will be travelling. I want to be comfortable in my trailer as well as towing. I appreciate all the help.

Not for nothing, but my 2016 24' Passport is 3750# dry, 5400# max, and 450ish# tongue (dry)...they do exist. Mine is termed an ultra-lite...aluminum frame, fiberglass skin...

 

The weird part is it has twin 3500# axles and load range C tires (good for about 8000#).

 

Point being, figure out what floor plan you want and visit every manufacturer's website.

 

http://www.keystonerv.com/passport/models/238ml/model-mobile

 

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sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

keep in mind you want to have at a minimum of 700 pounds as a tongue weight for your 7000 pound trailer. Ideally, you want to say 10 to 15% of the gross weight on the tongue.

 

 

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Hmmph, I'm going to have to redo my home-built 5x8 utility trailer...even with 3 tons in it, I can lift the ball off the hitch by hand.

 

Yep...

 

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sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

 

Ignore the hitch weight rating on the brochures. That is with nothing in the trailer, no batteries or propane. Estimate it at 12-15% of loaded trailer weight. My brochure says 680 for my trailer. Actual scale says 1,050. My trailer is 8,200 fully loaded (per scale), so I'm just under 13% and pretty typical. Your tongue weight could be 840 to 1,000 depending on things that don't seem to be very predictable. Plus be certain on the 7,000. Give yourself some leeway and assume your trailer weight will be the total of the dry weight and carrying capacity.

 

So, given payload of 1675, you could be down to as little as 700 lbs for your gear, plus anything added to you truck like running boards etc. Plus the hitch itself adds 100 pounds. Kinda getting into the range of you won't know until you hook up and take the whole mess over a scale.

 

Bear in mind I have a 2015 NHT rated at 10,800 and I max out with my trailer being 8,200.

I agree, and here is a perfect example of what I was getting at...you can "tow" 11k, but you can't ever reach that number realistically. And that's getting back to my comment on using those numbers to sell a truck...

 

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