Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes we know (we should) that the manual calls for 0W-20 for the 5.3 engine.

Can't remember the 6.2 oil spec off the top of my head, but oh well.

 

I'm curious what you 5.3 guys are running. Or plan to.

If you did steer of the recommended path, any issues?

Posted (edited)

I went to autozone, or advanced auto to buy oil...... this 0w-20 was like 36 bucks for a 5 quart jug... Of course the v8 needs 8 quarts...

The bill with filter came to like 96 bucks...

 

Here's my advice - go onto amazon and buy the Oil of choice you need.... I got 2 jugs of Valvoline Advanced Synthetic SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Quart

and the bill was $48.00

 

 

2 of Valvoline Advanced Synthetic SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Quart

Edited by raysturm
Posted (edited)

Mobil 1 0W/20 can be had at WalMart - or I always watch for the oil + filter specials at AutoZone - just picked up the same oil for the 2015 Subaru Outback yesterday. $33.99 for the 5qt jug and M1 filter............

 

Oil is oil............ But when it comes to these thin 0W/20 fuel saving oils........... Mobil 1 helps me sleep at night....... :driving:

 

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy

 

Already asked the dealership if they use the "synthetic blend" or "full synthetic" Dexos1 and they said full synthetic.......... Because I have free oil changes for life on the Silverado 6.2L on order. But doubt I will want to have them do what I can do just as easy and not have it on the crowded lot and in the hands of others.......... We'll see...........

Edited by Krusty
Posted (edited)

Mobil 1 0W/20 can be had at WalMart - or I always watch for the oil + filter specials at AutoZone - just picked up the same oil for the 2015 Subaru Outback yesterday. $33.99 for the 5qt jug and M1 filter............

 

Oil is oil............ But when it comes to these thin 0W/20 fuel saving oils........... Mobil 1 helps me sleep at night....... :driving:

 

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy

 

Already asked the dealership if they use the "synthetic blend" or "full synthetic" Dexos1 and they said full synthetic.......... Because I have free oil changes for life on the Silverado 6.2L on order. But doubt I will want to have them do what I can do just as easy and not have it on the crowded lot and in the hands of others.......... We'll see...........

Dealership will use synthetic blend mine used Quaker State........overfilled it by 3/4 quart and said, "I don't think it really matters if it's 8.00 or 8.75? So yeah, avoid the free oil change somehow they will **** it up!

Edited by mookdoc6
  • Like 2
Posted

Dealership will use synthetic blend mine used Quaker State........overfilled it by 3/4 quart and said, "I don't think it really matters if it's 8.00 or 8.75? So yeah, avoid the free oil change somehow they will **** it up!

So because 1 person had a small issue at 1 dealer they all will? Not really a F-up just an oversight, but hey I guess preach it to everyone...

 

Mobil 1 0W/20 can be had at WalMart - or I always watch for the oil + filter specials at AutoZone - just picked up the same oil for the 2015 Subaru Outback yesterday. $33.99 for the 5qt jug and M1 filter............

 

Oil is oil............ But when it comes to these thin 0W/20 fuel saving oils........... Mobil 1 helps me sleep at night....... :driving:

 

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy

 

Already asked the dealership if they use the "synthetic blend" or "full synthetic" Dexos1 and they said full synthetic.......... Because I have free oil changes for life on the Silverado 6.2L on order. But doubt I will want to have them do what I can do just as easy and not have it on the crowded lot and in the hands of others.......... We'll see...........

 

So you are or aren't going to use the free oil changes?

 

Not sure why anyone would not, chances are they know more and are better at it than anyone here and if something does happen, it is documented and will get fixed (which is few and far between). On top of that it is free, money you don't have to spend! If people are overbearing just check the oil level when done, spot check the filter and plug and verify what oil they used. Not that difficult and you stay clean.

 

I have my last free oil change coming up. I am all for doing it myself (and I will) but i will miss not having to spend $50 each time and the time saved.

 

In response to the OP, what ever the dealer uses. When i do it myself I will use the cheapest big name oil in the correct weight and most likely synthetic blend unless it calls for full synthetic as I change my oil every 5k and am not worried about the extra longevity. Will do some more checking as that time nears.

 

Tyler

Posted

First oil change at 1000 miles was done with the oil and filter I bought from the dealer the day I picked up the truck: AC Delco 0w-20 with filter.

 

The AC Delco is Synthetic BLEND, not FULL sythetic, which was fine for break-in anyway. At my next oil change, at 5k, I'll be switching to full sythetic, most likely. After that, I'll be sticking with a 5k mile OCI.

 

When I picked up the oil and filter from the dealer, the bill was $46 for 9 quarts and a filter. Yes 9, because apparently GM changed the oil capacity from 8.5 quarts to an even 8 recently and the guy who got the oil obviously wasn't aware.

Posted

0w-20 Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5000 miles in my truck and my wives 2016 Tahoe. Factory used in all corvettes for years now. 6.2 specs are the same as the 5.3 for viscosity.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I would have to read back to get a better picture in my mind of some of the other comments and what they were using for a driving scenario they based the fuel mileage off of. That is why the fuel mileage conversation is extremely difficult to make fair comparisons from. If I was to be living in town and only driving around town, light to light and some longer stretches that doesn't have a light every block, and the usual stop at a grocery store and the bank and so on and so forth, my fuel mileage even during the summer time would be so bad with my truck I don't even want to know how bad it would be !. Then add in winter time and idling to warm it up to clear the windows and driving through snowy streets etc, large heavy trucks with gas engines have NEVER been worth crap for fuel mileage and why some little pot licker of a car with wheelbarrow tires and a 1300 cc four cylinder non turbo engine was the ticket to using a mere fraction of the fuel over a full size pickup.    By the way my truck has the 34" tires as its a HC but not the BFG KO3 tires ( that was an option for my truck but the sales guy couldn't figure out what the tires actually were so that never got on the order until it was too late to change the truck order ). So what fuel mileage your getting actually sounds good for "town driving" and with my truck when I go to town the fuel mileage keeps increasing as I get closer to town because it takes quite a while to get the driveline oils warmed up ( and why it always shows better fuel mileage on the return trip from town because its already warmed up ) but once I am in town that fuel mileage average just keeps dropping the more I mess around town and then has to recover back to something reasonable again by the time I get home for an over all average.    I'd be curious what your sticker says for the factory weight of your truck, mine is close around that 7700 lb due to the options it has. But anyway the long and short is, vehicle weight, higher rolling resistance heavy tires and a hefty driveline and a relatively large gas engine make for crap fuel mileage in stop and go scenarios, all one can do is drive it easy off the line at each stop and as my dad had said over the years, drive like a raw egg is under your foot and that's the best one can do. Years back with a carbed engine and if the carb was getting a bit out of tune etc as would the ignition system, the fuel mileage on pickups with larger engines was just awful compared to what your getting. We pay the fuel price penalty for driving HD trucks over some little vehicle, that is the reality. 
    • We had two Toyota’s with that engine in the mid 80s. We had 50 gallon fuel tanks, a toolbox full of tools, an air compressor and assorted parts for our equipment. We beat those up and down pipeline ROWs until we started buying diesel trucks. Then they became parts runners and first vehicles for our teenagers first cars. Our shop Forman wrecked them both two years apart when we hired him out of high school as an apprentice. Good thing he’s an excellent mechanic. It took awhile before he could be called a good driver.
    • I have a 2025 GMC Canyon Denali.   On a trip recently the engine failed.  The dealership diagnosed a bent valve and says there is a service bulletin that indicates to 'relace the engine'.  The truck only has about 14K miles and is under warranty.   The failure occurred 5/11/2026.   So far I have worked with GM Customer Assistance and Roadside Assistance.  Evidently no engines are available and nobody will offer a date when a new one will be.   Coming up on two months with no repair or timeline and no loaner from the dealership.   GMC Customer Assistance is 'ghosting' me and keeps closing the cases I've opened with no resolution.   Hoping someone can help me on how to escalate this issue.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...