Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I live on muddy dirt roads.. i take excellent car of my truck, (2016) z71.. however i drove down the extremely muddy dirt today in 4wd. right before i got to the highway i received an important phone call and when i hit the highway i forgot to switch to 2wd. So i just drove 35 miles down the turnpike at 78 mph all the way to work. Pulling in the driveway on pavement making a sharp turn i felt the bind. I immediately stopped and shifted to 2wd. I mean everything seems fine but now im paranoid and freaking out because of the high speed and pavement... think i hurt anything??? I so disappointed in myself because i take such good car of my truck and i need it to last... ugh

 

P.s. this was 4 hi not auto

 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Edited by djxn40
  • Like 2
Posted

You will be fine. On my previous 2007 Tacoma, it was recommended to drive in 4hi once in awhile on striaght roads to ensure the gears in the transfer case and front diff turned and got lubed. You'll know when its bad....you would of heard a loud pop and your truck would of acted as if it was in nuetral.

  • Like 1
Posted

Dang you probably took years off your drivetain and overheated the transfer case.

 

Just kidding. You will be just fine, this likely had no impact to your drivetrain components. 30 something miles isn't that many plus you caught it while turning which imo is far worse than driving in a straight line.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you guys! You have eased my mind.. god i love this forum! So many helpful people on here. Wished i could buy y'all a beer!!!

 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Posted

Thank you guys! You have eased my mind.. god i love this forum! So many helpful people on here. Wished i could buy y'all a beer!!!

 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

There's apps for that [emoji6]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

My father in law's 14' sierra was stuck in 4hi after Christmas 2015. He drove home to California from Colorado in 4hi. Dealer in Cali did the transfer case tsb and fixed it. Dealer said fluid was fine, no issues.......

 

So i think you will be ok.

Posted

Why on Earth would you think you wrecked your truck by driving it in 4wd? Lol And who at some point in your life would have told you driving in 4hi would ruin your truck?

Posted

From all the chicken little's on this forum.

 

 

Why on Earth would you think you wrecked your truck by driving it in 4wd? Lol And who at some point in your life would have told you driving in 4hi would ruin your truck?

  • Like 1
Posted

Why on Earth would you think you wrecked your truck by driving it in 4wd? Lol And who at some point in your life would have told you driving in 4hi would ruin your truck?

Maybe someone who knows what they're talking about OR because he read the Silverado owner's manual.

 

"Drive Systems

Four-Wheel Drive

If equipped, four-wheel drive

engages the front axle for extra

traction. Read the appropriate

section for transfer case operation

before using.

Caution

Do not drive on clean, dry

pavement in 4 Hi and 4 Lo (if

equipped) for an extended period

of time. These conditions may

cause premature wear on the

vehicle’s powertrain.

Driving on clean, dry pavement in

four-wheel drive may:

. Cause a vibration to be felt in

the steering system.

. Cause tires to wear faster.

. Make the transfer case harder to

shift, and cause it to run noisier."

 

OP never said he wrecked his truck, just wanted to know if it was hurt by driving on a turnpike, not in mud or heavy rain. 4WD (not AWD) systems are stressed driving on dry pavement when locked wheels on opposite ends of the axle are forced to travel different distances in a turn, tighter the turn, more stress or wheel hop. Likely did little very little if any damage on a turnpike with mostly straight driving and high radius turns. Of course you can confidently go full time in 4WD with no chance of damage as so long as you go perfectly straight without turning the steering wheel..

Posted

Maybe someone who knows what they're talking about OR because he read the Silverado owner's manual.

 

"Drive Systems

Four-Wheel Drive

If equipped, four-wheel drive

engages the front axle for extra

traction. Read the appropriate

section for transfer case operation

before using.

Caution

Do not drive on clean, dry

pavement in 4 Hi and 4 Lo (if

equipped) for an extended period

of time. These conditions may

cause premature wear on the

vehicles powertrain.

Driving on clean, dry pavement in

four-wheel drive may:

. Cause a vibration to be felt in

the steering system.

. Cause tires to wear faster.

. Make the transfer case harder to

shift, and cause it to run noisier."

 

OP never said he wrecked his truck, just wanted to know if it was hurt by driving on a turnpike, not in mud or heavy rain. 4WD (not AWD) systems are stressed driving on dry pavement when locked wheels on opposite ends of the axle are forced to travel different distances in a turn, tighter the turn, more stress or wheel hop. Likely did little very little if any damage on a turnpike with mostly straight driving and high radius turns. Of course you can confidently go full time in 4WD with no chance of damage as so long as you go perfectly straight without turning the steering wheel..

You've got to be kidding lol. You guys need some real life experience Im afraid.

  • Like 1
Posted

You've got to be kidding lol. You guys need some real life experience Im afraid.

Have you ever experienced a truck that was in 4wd most of its life? I have, when the chain stretches to the point it rattles in the case, jumps teeth of the gears, or worse pukes out through the side of the case...that's wear.

 

The owner's wife of the dealer I worked at way back when ran a demo Suburban in 4wd from the time the first snow hit until about June...she destroyed more than one transfercase in demo vehicles because of that and she got a new demo Suburban every year for winter driving...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Have you ever experienced a truck that was in 4wd most of its life? I have, when the chain stretches to the point it rattles in the case, jumps teeth of the gears, or worse pukes out through the side of the case...that's wear.

 

The owner's wife of the dealer I worked at way back when ran a demo Suburban in 4wd from the time the first snow hit until about June...she destroyed more than one transfercase in demo vehicles because of that and she got a new demo Suburban every year for winter driving...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Yup, I work for gm and am in Canada, you know where half the population that has 4x4 leaves it in 4x4 for half the year, every year.....

You know how many transfer case jobs come through the shop a month? Maybe 1... Maybe and we have 22 mechanical techs and sell trucks like crazy and know for a fact tons of people as soon as a snowflake just the ground are in 4x4 till it's gone.

You guys are out to lunch. You read stupid story's on the net and believe everything you read.... Or have "a friend" who drove 3 kms and needed a complete overhaul of his 4x4 system lol.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...