Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/30/2017 at 8:37 PM, rtreptow7 said:

So after messing around with this forever, I think I finally have it working.  I have a 2017 Denali HD that came with the wireless charger that wouldn't work with my iPhone 8.  I ordered the wireless charger module for a 2018 Denali HD part number 13521066 from needgmparts.com.  (On edit: I had to email the company as the part number was not listed or found in a search). It was 97.65 plus shipping. The new charger module has a different plug but uses the same 3 wires. I ordered the new plug from Mouser electronics part number 571-2035363-4 . It cost 71 cents.  I easily unpinned the old connector.  When installing the new connector, the pins on the wires had a little "nub" sticking out on one side that wouldn't allow me to slide it into the new connector.  I took a small pliers and just squeezed these "nubs" down so they were flush.  The pins then slid in easily and clicked in place securely. Plugged the new wireless module in and put the lid for the center console back together and it seems to be working the way it should now.  Little green lightning bolt shows up on the screen when phone is on the charge pad.  I can pick the phone up, set it back down and it starts charging again immediately.   Thanks to all the users on here for the information they provided regarding the parts, connectors, correct part numbers, etc. 

new module below

DD88798F-2939-4EC3-A4E4-7C009374AD1A.jpeg

Here is the FCC filing information for this module, including a user manual and photographs of the inside:

https://fccid.io/BEJWC900A05

 

Posted
On 11/30/2017 at 7:37 PM, rtreptow7 said:

So after messing around with this forever, I think I finally have it working.  I have a 2017 Denali HD that came with the wireless charger that wouldn't work with my iPhone 8.  I ordered the wireless charger module for a 2018 Denali HD part number 13521066 from needgmparts.com.  (On edit: I had to email the company as the part number was not listed or found in a search). It was 97.65 plus shipping. The new charger module has a different plug but uses the same 3 wires. I ordered the new plug from Mouser electronics part number 571-2035363-4 . It cost 71 cents.  I easily unpinned the old connector.  When installing the new connector, the pins on the wires had a little "nub" sticking out on one side that wouldn't allow me to slide it into the new connector.  I took a small pliers and just squeezed these "nubs" down so they were flush.  The pins then slid in easily and clicked in place securely. Plugged the new wireless module in and put the lid for the center console back together and it seems to be working the way it should now.  Little green lightning bolt shows up on the screen when phone is on the charge pad.  I can pick the phone up, set it back down and it starts charging again immediately.   Thanks to all the users on here for the information they provided regarding the parts, connectors, correct part numbers, etc. 

new module below

DD88798F-2939-4EC3-A4E4-7C009374AD1A.jpeg

Thank you for posting this. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks to everyone and rtreptow7 for doing the research and legwork on getting the part numbers for the new 2018 charging module and the associated connector part with Mouser.

 

I finally got my module today, and will include some additional pictures to complement the ones rtreptow7 posted.

 

Box of the module, and the module itself:

GM 13521066 Box.jpg

GM 13521066 plug.jpg

GM 13521066  top of unit.jpg

Posted (edited)

Here is the connector from Mouser,  571-2035363-4 , for the new unit.  This is needed for the new charging module.  The old plug will not fit at all into the new module, so this new connector is needed.  When it arrives from Mouser, all the pieces are attached.  I personally found it easier installing the wires into the new connector with the big red piece off the end removed.  To do that, simply use a small flathead screwdriver and carefully pry up the sides.  It will come right off.

 

 

IMG_0300.jpg

IMG_0301.jpg

IMG_0302.jpg

IMG_0304.jpg

Edited by Bangback
Posted

The old connector is shown here, which is white with a red component.  First note the color of the wires and which slots they are in.  Don't pay attention to the bars on the connector.  They are on different sides from the old connector to the new connector, and they will just confuse you.  Just pay attention to where the push lever is on top of the connector and note that the wires are in the left 3 holes.  They will go in the same left three holes on the new connector, with the push lever on top.

 

First thing you will want to do is to remove the red plastic piece.  I used a small flathead precision screwdriver.  Just push on the middle red tab and push it outward.  It will take some force, but the piece should slowly slide out, as seen in the pictures below.

IMG_0310.jpg

IMG_0313.jpg

IMG_0319.jpg

Posted (edited)

Make sure your ignition is off as well as the radio.  Once the red piece is off,  look deep within the connector and you will see white tabs over the tops of the metal pins, from looking into the end of the plug where the charging module pins plug in.  Gently take your precision flathead screwdriver and lift up a little bit on the white tab.  The wire should now easily pull out from the back of the connector.  It shouldn't take too much force.  If it doesn't easily come out, you may not have the white tab lifted high enough.  NOTE when you remove the wire, remember how the metal crimp pin is oriented in the old plug.  You will be plugging into the new connector with this same orientation.  Also try not to touch the wires together and short anything out, just in case there is power.  Temporarily taping them apart so they don't touch isn't a bad idea. 

 

You will then see the "nub" on the metal piece that rtreptow7 referred to earlier.  It is shown in the picture below of the metal crimp pin, on the top side.  This needs to be compressed a little bit with pliers or use your flathead screwdriver to press in the nub.  If you don't press this in, it will be very difficult to slide the metal piece into the new plug.  The picture shown of the metal crimped wire is the correct orientation as if you are looking straight down from the top of the connector.  This "nub" will look like it's on the right side of the pin when placed into the new connector.

 

Again, on the new connector, I entirely removed the red end piece for installation.  Just lift the sides of the red piece with the screwdriver and it will pop right off.

 

After you press in the "nub" on metal crimp pin, just slide it in, and listen for an audible "click".  Check the end of the connector and you should see the metal pin go all the way to the back of the new plug.  Do this for all 3 wires, make sure you have the colors in the right spots, then put the red piece back on the end. 

 

The new module is an exact fit to where the old module is.  It bolts right on with the same screws.  Plug your new connector in and test.  It should now work!  Good luck!

IMG_0320.jpg

IMG_0321.jpg

Edited by Bangback
Posted

Great work @Bangback

 

I skimmed through this thread -- has anyone confirmed whether or not this allows for "fast charging" ??? If it does, I'm in!  

Posted
40 minutes ago, rcpd34 said:

Do you know the difference between your new one and 13507652?

User Pgamboa has some great pictures in this thread at the end....

 

Posted
Do you know the difference between your new one and 13507652?

Someone posted part # 13507652, but no one seemed to have a pic of it. That’s when the actual module part # 13521066 started to surface.

I don’t have a pic of 13507652. The bottom two modules here are the same.

de7cdbb06d13b181f6df0d01ab395741.jpg

b3c102b392d31b72988b8ee78b6cea9a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

Well, I ordered it as well as the Mouser plug.  Hopefully, it's the correct one.  I got the number from my dealer which he said was the correct part number for the 2018.  I guess we will see...

Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Someone posted part # 13507652, but no one seemed to have a pic of it. That’s when the actual module part # 13521066 started to surface.

I don’t have a pic of 13507652. The bottom two modules here are the same.

de7cdbb06d13b181f6df0d01ab395741.jpg

b3c102b392d31b72988b8ee78b6cea9a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to know that the new design has 3 coils!  That should make it less critical as to where to place the phone for the optimal charging position.

 

I haven't done any testing  yet with charge times with the new charger.  I do have the latest version of iOS on the iPhone X, which should have 7.5W wireless charging enabled.  I could try to capture some charging times, but won't know for sure what the actual voltage and wattage coming in is.  In about 10 minutes or less on a short drive I took, the phone went from 70% to 73%, from what I've seen so far.  

Edited by Bangback
Posted

I sent an email inquiry to GM Parts Xperts, the company I ordered module 13507652 from, and this is their reply cut and pasted:

 

The part number that you order changes to part number 13521066, they are the same part.

 

Hopefully we are all good.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...