Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So what I see is I can simply run 12v to the switch, then run two wires back to window; one going to up and one going to down?

 

Would this make it work correctly?

 

I'll have the window in two days so I could post photos of connector on it. I'm hoping if I can do this, it will function off of overhead switch(instead of an aftermarket one).

You'll need some relays to get it to work with the factory switch.

 

Should have all the details in the thread I posted.

Edited by bndawgs
Posted

You'll need some relays to get it to work with the factory switch.

 

Should have all the details in the thread I posted.

What thread? Could you post a link.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

What thread? Could you post a link.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

 

Post #15... First page of this thread...

Posted

and Post #25 is where I included the schematic that shows the wiring diagrams, open/close relays, switch, etc.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

From looking at the other thread I got the other parts needed. I also changed them so they're easier to find.

 

Console Trim - 23104422 - $29.06

*W/ Homelink

Switch - 22774498 - $38.56

Connector - 12167130 - $48.94

8milelake (5 pack) 12V 30/40 AMP SPD - $16.95(Amazon) (Need 2)

 

I got my window for just $50 and will cost $200 to install so all in this mod will cost me just $414.49 Canadian!

 

Once I get all the parts delivered I'll take a video of the process.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Edited by WesternSilverado
  • Like 4
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Does anyone know if there’s any wiring under this cover where the rear window slides? I want to mount a Plaque and I want to screw it in some how. Just don’t want to drill into the motor if it’s possibly under that cover 

D086E488-0B6C-40C2-A57C-9001FA4A848F.jpeg

AF145FE0-11A6-4043-AB02-0D9D43873158.jpeg

Posted
On 5/6/2019 at 2:30 PM, Rayder92 said:

Does anyone know if there’s any wiring under this cover where the rear window slides? I want to mount a Plaque and I want to screw it in some how. Just don’t want to drill into the motor if it’s possibly under that cover 

D086E488-0B6C-40C2-A57C-9001FA4A848F.jpeg

AF145FE0-11A6-4043-AB02-0D9D43873158.jpeg

It's for the teather for a child safety seat. There are two others behind each headrest. 

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 5/31/2017 at 11:28 PM, WesternMike said:

From looking at the other thread I got the other parts needed. I also changed them so they're easier to find.

 

Console Trim - 23104422 - $29.06

*W/ Homelink

Switch - 22774498 - $38.56

Connector - 12167130 - $48.94

8milelake (5 pack) 12V 30/40 AMP SPD - $16.95(Amazon) (Need 2)

 

I got my window for just $50 and will cost $200 to install so all in this mod will cost me just $414.49 Canadian!

 

Once I get all the parts delivered I'll take a video of the process.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I guess it never happened?

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 2/20/2020 at 10:09 PM, Joeyzubarik17 said:

Did it ever work out? Can you give us a update

Anyone figure this out? Successfully installed?   Curious to see what all is needed and a write up if someone has a link to one. 

Posted
On 5/6/2019 at 2:30 PM, Rayder92 said:

Does anyone know if there’s any wiring under this cover where the rear window slides? I want to mount a Plaque and I want to screw it in some how. Just don’t want to drill into the motor if it’s possibly under that cover 

D086E488-0B6C-40C2-A57C-9001FA4A848F.jpeg

AF145FE0-11A6-4043-AB02-0D9D43873158.jpeg

Did you get this done?  How'd it turn out?

Posted

If someone is wanting a solid glass back rear window, I’ll have one for sale starting this weekend. Pm me if interested


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

0673D505-E284-42D2-A5EE-E8843C1B8868.jpeg.95a1443e7d0884d1003527df22430c77.jpegWhat a ride. I have completed this task that was well a small pain, but seems that I am one of the few and with only having to source a few parts online and from[mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention] and his business @harnessdr

 

He helped me by walking me through what I had and what to check for. Seems I needed an x2 fuse block for the relay to run it as well as motor and then the studs to mount it.

 

I bought the fuse block from[mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention] and got motor on eBay. Seems they are hard to find.

 

Phil really helped me out as for 4 years I’ve wanted this option and really didn’t know which wires and where to look for them. With a few mins on a chat I was able to check each location for the wires needed and as I said got lucky that I had many of the wires ran.

 

I ordered the glass slider, the motor, the x2 fuse block from Phil and the upper console to get the oem switch. The last thing I’m currently waiting on is the trim right under the slider. This is different than the one if you have a solid window so either you trim to fit what you got or have to source exactly what you need.

 

In searching here are the parts and some quick picks. I don’t have part number for x2 but I’m sure[mention=159655]pgamboa[/mention] can help you out with that if needed. These are for my 2015 but should be at least 2015-2018. I would say 14 but was told there is hit and miss as 14 was a turnover year.

 

GM Power slider 2d2cbfffa930c1c71a958a2f6ba01722.jpg

 

 

 

Motor 23490454

Console. Can be many as depends on options

X2 fuse block with relays

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

F12A5ECA-D766-4031-8B72-6EAEA9DA4A47.jpeg

Edited by Csjumper2003

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey thanks yall for the info. It apparently was the key fob - the "reserve" key fob works just fine. Yall were all over it. Great input! JRD
    • I just bought one of these.   https://www.topdon.us/collections/diagnostic-tools/products/artidiag-pro   Yeah, it`s got a cable. $250/year after 2 years. Do I want more? Yep. But, I`m not working any more and can`t afford a whirlpool in my tool box.
    • Why don't I have a good scanner? I've always wanted one when I've needed one.   My latest reading says I don't need to do a relearn on the ckp sensor on a 1995 with OBD 1.5. The relearn is prescribed for the later-model 1995's which shipped with actual OBD II when GM completed the transition in prep for the 1996 MY. I need to confirm that. Did you know forums are disappearing? Knuckleheads on Facebook... it's not the same. It's just not.   So, scanners. Again, shooting myself in the foot for having eBayed my Snap On MT2500 "brick" with all the adapters. Not that I couldn't buy another but those are getting quite old, and mine wasn't new enough to work on 2000's vehicles.   Damn it (as I'm scanning my email between paragraphs here). Did you know there's a 2000 Jimmy 2-door on BaT that's ending this morning? It's local. I want it. 14k miles. Absolutely beautiful.   Back to scanners. MT2500's are old. Solus, now that could be a contender. There's a ~2008 Verus with a system error that's basically new in box for cheap. Hmm...I'm not sure about a scanner that runs an archaic version of windows (95 or CE, I can't tell).   I want the ability to reset and rotate TPMS, test individual modules, bleed ABS, electronic parking brake controls for servicing brakes, relearn procedures and other bidirectional controls.   Snap On does an MT2600. It's a new model as of last year, marketed as their "entry" scanner. Entry? Only where $1900 gets you through the doorway plus, I'm guessing, $1000/year if you wish to keep it current. So goes scan tools actually designed for production environments. Want decent products with excellent support, you pay for it.   Everyone is raving about Autels and TopDons and Foxconns and all these newer brands that are selling the $500 "prosumer" scanners for backyard hacks like me. They're tempting...honestly. Updates are cheaper, base prices are remarkably cheaper... And you get to deal with bugs and translation whoopsies and, well, just don't use it on anything expensive, OK? Having a dealer replace an ECU because it needs to be re-imaged after an adventure in scanning is no joke. But I think most people are getting by OK with these units.   eBay on a scratch-and-sniff pro-model oldie, a shiny new TopDon, or???   God dang it, I can't stop looking at this Jimmy. I'm ready! I'll Bring The TRailer! It's beautiful.
    • I removed the OE running boards.  It looked so much better.  I wish I took them off a long time ago.     I had to put something back on for my wife.  I wanted Westin Sure Grip Running Boards but they are very pricey, like $600 plus.  I was going to go with the Ionic 41's like I had on the 2019 Silverado but went with Westin Outlaw Drop Steps instead, about $200 cheaper.  They are sturdy and functional but not super crazy about the look, but it works.  
    • It's all a crock of 💩
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...