Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

no it does not matter how you hooked it up. As long as positive went onto positive and negative onto negative.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the info fellas.

 

Well, last night I attempted to reset the bcm by unhooking the battery for a while. I then touched the 2 terminals together before reconnecting the battery. No luck.

 

I dropped my truck off at the dealer this morn and explained everything to the service advisor. I went and picked it up and they said I had a bad connection. Not too descriptive. The tech and service advisor I was working with were already gone so no more info than that. I plan on calling tomorrow to find out a little more. $143 total for 1 hour of labor. Feel like I dodged a bullet. Thanks for all the help. And tx-at glad your truck is back to working right.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

James did you ever find out what the issue was? I'm having a similar problem. I just replaced the battery and my radio and speakers cut in and out for a couple minutes after starting the truck, then it clears up. Tried BCM reset with no luck

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have a 2014 silverado, replaced the battery back in November, every few weeks the truck acts like the alternator is going bad and the power steering gets tight and the lights would dim as i turn the wheel.  Went to my local auto zone to test the system, truck was dead and the guy there looked at the block on top shook it a bit and everything returned to normal, some how the main bolt going to the alt was loose tightened it all down and now no more issues with anything.  Maybe its a loose connection from moving everything around. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I replaced my battery now my truck won’t turn on the dashboard nothing what can it be 

this morning my truck didn’t turn on so they jump start and got to work and when was going to leave it didn’t turn on they check the battery and it was bad now idk what to do 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I have a 2017 2500.  Changed the battery now e brake light stays on, traction control light on and cruise control will not engage.  Do I need to reset something.  

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I had the same issues as James when I replaced my battery.  After a closer inspection, I realized that I forgot to connect the plug that attaches to the distribution box on top of the battery.  Once I plugged that in, everything worked fine.  I’m guessing that might be the bad connection the dealership mechanic told him about.

  • Like 1
Posted

So in Response to everyone’s input. I had a similar problem which was due to a shitty mechanic(myself) replaced my battery and the truck(2014 GMC Sierra) started right up. After a day of driving dash lights started to flicker, stabilitrack earning came on, etc. the next morning truck sputtered lights flickered and it barely started. Trouble shot it the next day. Turns out I had a bad connection because I didn’t tighten one of the nuts enough on the electric manifold(whatever the god dam name of that is). After driving for a day it must’ve shook loose and cause intermittent current aka a shitty connection. 
Check your connection people. Then have a beer

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I had the same problem, brought it in and they wiggled the battery terminal connection, tightened it more, wiggled the connection, tightened it, and all the sudden the fan, radio, and blinkers turned on.  

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted

Had to replace my battery on a 2014 Silverado. After replacing it,it still wouldn’t start at all. After looking over all the cables I found the problem was that the positive cable was just loose enough to cause the issue. The T-bolt attachment on the positive lead wasn’t tightened all the way. Tightened it then the engine fired right up! Hope this helps someone else

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...