Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, Jav_eee said:

 


Flag holder? Where’d you get it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Nilight 90020B 2-Pack (Standard) Mounting Bracket Kit LED Off-Road Light Horizontal Bar Tube Clamp Roof Roll Cage Holder,2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714CYKBJ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_TGRSEbHQ25XAA

 

so the bar I have between the two mounts shown in there picture is just a placeholder and to represent the flag pole.

 

!Important! i haven't driven with the flag in it yet. I am still trying to figure out if it will work well. You see the problem I find is that, for one, the two mounts are do close to each other that it puts more strain on the metal side of the bed. Idk if it's too much or not just scared to risk it.

second, with the mounting location behind where the flag sits, there is also more force being applied where as if the mounting surface was in front of the actual flag pole it would be pulling from the mount not pushing (talking about the force applied from the flag being pulled at high speeds). Hope this makes sense. 

 

So therefore, I don't know what kind of tolerances the bed can take but is only $12 on Amazon and get a strong pipe, flag mounts and flag and check it out. You could make it work I'm sure. I just haven't messed with it more.

Posted
49 minutes ago, Mysz said:

Where'd you order the window flag from? How was the install?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

I told my wife I wanted to find one and I believe she found it on etsy. You should be able to find it pretty easily on there. Honestly I think it cost about $100.. I know it sounds like a lot but much smaller decals usually go for $30 or so.

 

I had my tint guy install it when he did my ceramic tint. He said it was a little tricky but not too bad. I have had it for months and it's held up well. No problems when washing or in rain or anything. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 5/4/2020 at 10:23 AM, 2019Custom said:

Did you install the AMPs yourself? if yes, was the wiring a pain in the ass? If no, can i ask what you paid for install?

I just installed AMP steps onto my truck on my own, it took me about 3 hours to do so, and it wasn't to hard, just a lot of little steps.  The wiring wasn't hard at all, the instructions give you a pretty good idea where to run the harness.  just make sure you follow the torque pattern that they give you, one of my steps had a little gap in the front and i had to go back and re torque everything to get it to line up.  

Posted
On 5/4/2020 at 8:22 AM, 2019Custom said:

How'd you go about trimming the flares? Really want to remove them, but if they were flush to the body I'd be happy to keep some protection.

Just marked the areas I waned to trim, used a fine-saw for the cut and some sand paper to clean up and round off the edges. I would have removed them if there wasn’t a hole in the fender for them to snap into. Not a big fan of the plug look.  

Posted

Some updates to the truck. 
removed 1.25” spacers

removed rigid fog lights

removed the white lettering from front grill. 
Reason: 

I felt the front end was getting busy, and I kinda missed the all black look.
rigid fog lights were pulling too many amps from the truck and I was having some issues with the truck not wanting to start and giving me electrical issues. Now they are gone and things are working perfectly. Im keeping the spacers because I still have the stock wheels but I don’t need them for the new wheels with the correct offset of 0mm. 


 

ED9F9DEC-B460-4733-926E-245D7970B04A.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Atelliott89 said:

I told my wife I wanted to find one and I believe she found it on etsy. You should be able to find it pretty easily on there. Honestly I think it cost about $100.. I know it sounds like a lot but much smaller decals usually go for $30 or so.

 

 

I had my tint guy install it when he did my ceramic tint. He said it was a little tricky but not too bad. I have had it for months and it's held up well. No problems when washing or in rain or anything. 

I did a search on Etsy but couldn’t find that exact one. I’ve been lookin and that’s my favorite so far. Could you find out where you got it? Thanks.

Posted
On 5/2/2020 at 7:23 AM, f0urtw3nty said:

bed stake pocket covers, wet okole neoprene seat covers, short antenna & led license plate & reverse lights. just the basics so far 

66445772-CE49-43DA-952C-C28D06ED69E7.jpeg

81F6D77B-39D1-4F8B-BD8C-4EA0BE1CC95A.jpeg

07708746-2118-4395-840D-D4E9C796B15E.jpeg

Man those seat covers look great. Got a

link to them by any chance? 

Posted
9 hours ago, Atelliott89 said:

I told my wife I wanted to find one and I believe she found it on etsy. You should be able to find it pretty easily on there. Honestly I think it cost about $100.. I know it sounds like a lot but much smaller decals usually go for $30 or so.

 

 

I had my tint guy install it when he did my ceramic tint. He said it was a little tricky but not too bad. I have had it for months and it's held up well. No problems when washing or in rain or anything. 

I ordered the same decal , only the one for a window with the sliding middle. Mine came so tightly rolled up and creased that many of the stars were already folded onto themselves. Couldn’t get it to lay flat so I ripped it all off in frustration. Would love to have it own but won’t be ordering it from them again. Plan on seeing if a local print shop can do one for me. 

Posted
Some updates to the truck. 
removed 1.25” spacers
removed rigid fog lights
removed the white lettering from front grill. 
Reason: 
I felt the front end was getting busy, and I kinda missed the all black look.
rigid fog lights were pulling too many amps from the truck and I was having some issues with the truck not wanting to start and giving me electrical issues. Now they are gone and things are working perfectly. Im keeping the spacers because I still have the stock wheels but I don’t need them for the new wheels with the correct offset of 0mm. 

 
ED9F9DEC-B460-4733-926E-245D7970B04A.thumb.jpeg.a132bec2b298ff8d34af6a28e4418a41.jpeg

LED lights pulling too many amps? That’s a first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Ryguy said:

Some updates to the truck. 
removed 1.25” spacers

removed rigid fog lights

removed the white lettering from front grill. 
Reason: 

I felt the front end was getting busy, and I kinda missed the all black look.
rigid fog lights were pulling too many amps from the truck and I was having some issues with the truck not wanting to start and giving me electrical issues. Now they are gone and things are working perfectly. Im keeping the spacers because I still have the stock wheels but I don’t need them for the new wheels with the correct offset of 0mm. 


 

ED9F9DEC-B460-4733-926E-245D7970B04A.jpeg

Truck looks good man, I have those same running boards

255FC7A3-7903-4CDE-B982-CE59BC6D546C.jpeg

Edited by pewterliftedz
  • Like 1
Posted
Got my new lights put together. Decided to use the plastic blanks that fill the factory fog light location on trucks without fogs. They fit well on these plastic panels and I’m very confident that the 3 bolts can support the lights. Much cheaper than other options and look decent I think. About  a $50 mod, if I don’t have to add anything else. 
 
 
E6023FEB-20F4-4D87-8723-BCB44C33EB45.thumb.jpeg.af55eeb76bc3db6d7f61fa68cd0c1ac8.jpeg
C28E8A7A-0AF1-4240-8DC9-5015C1C9C333.thumb.jpeg.375eea63189bf863177ada5f4ba3cb25.jpeg
Where u get the lights?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Didn’t do this today, but it was my first mod to the truck. 
 

converted all remaining halogen bulbs to LED on my 2020 LTZ. That would be the front turn signals, reverse lights and tag lamps.  Can’t post a video for some reason so here in my reddit post. 
 

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • same here , i have a 2020 first gen and the cost to repair these engines far excedes replacement
    • But Grumpy I did show several subdivisions that had homes starting in the 170K range. If you bought a Townhouse or Condo you could go cheaper. Same with a car 3000 dollars in the 70s translates to around 20K today. There are several models at that price. You actually get more for the money. In the 70s I drove a 3000$ car bought a 28K home and made 4.50 per hour. Thank goodness for overtime. Today I could buy a 170K house drive a 20K car and make 25 dollars an hour operating the same machine today. The difference the house, car, machine would be better and have AC. And I wouldn’t be taxed on overtime. And statistically your wife works too. Easing the burden. I thought we agreed to disagree. I brought receipts earlier, showing examples. I think you’re more stubborn than me. I was done with this debate. 
    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...