Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Only reason I’m concerned is the truck came with 285/65 20s.  So I was worried there was a level the dealer added to do so.  

It looks like you have a level kit on the bottom. I circled the part on your picture. Can you take another picture underneath?
73450c33696824bf12d215a84f22a28d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
After looking at another thread, I found out that even RL UCAs had problems. They say to maintenance UCA every oil change. 

Can you post the link with issues? What are the issues? I have the RL UCAs and so far good but it’s only been 2k miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
7 hours ago, RadoPhan said:


It looks like you have a level kit on the bottom. I circled the part on your picture. Can you take another picture underneath?
73450c33696824bf12d215a84f22a28d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for responding.  I took some pics for you.  Appears to be a rough country product.   Does this put me at risk with all of the control arm / joint failures others are having?

 

 

 

4F6F514C-F201-4DD6-8A59-F3D6DC37C034.jpeg

69C86BE5-CD6A-4ABB-A5AB-68D1EF39F735.jpeg

Posted
Thank you for responding.  I took some pics for you.  Appears to be a rough country product.   Does this put me at risk with all of the control arm / joint failures others are having?
 
 
 
4F6F514C-F201-4DD6-8A59-F3D6DC37C034.thumb.jpeg.784ac59e1f4908a17721dfea7b17ea40.jpeg
69C86BE5-CD6A-4ABB-A5AB-68D1EF39F735.thumb.jpeg.8f416ad1e25df2e7b532ade9fca4eb9d.jpeg

Yes this increases your risk for the factory UCA failure. There’s people out there that have similar setups and it hasn’t failed yet. But does this mean it will definitely fail, no but there’s a higher risk and for me adding any risk to your own safety and thousands of dollars in damages isn’t worth an extra couple hundred dollars to get the aftermarket UCA. That’s the main reason I went with ReadyLift and the new UCA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
On 11/12/2020 at 5:45 AM, jgjorge44 said:

After looking at another thread, I found out that even RL UCAs had problems. They say to maintenance UCA every oil change. 

Can you link that thread so we can see what you’re talking about? Thanks.

Edited by EricTheRed
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ready lift has a leveling kit made specifically for the trailboss and AT4. The trucks have a 2 inch factory lift but there is still a rake present. I’m thinking about putting one on my 2020 trailboss as well. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Can anyone ring in on long term updates on the Ready Lift with the UCA? I want to go with this level but would like some feedback.

 

Thank you

Edited by Kickerz71
Posted
Can anyone ring in on long term updates on the Ready Lift with the UCA? I want to go with this level but would like some feedback.
 
Thank you

Been running perfectly fine for me but it’s only been about 5K miles. I will say the quality on the ball joint is substantially better than stock. And the only maintenance you need is a little bit of lube for the ball joint once in a while. I like that the bushings doesn’t need lubing and doesn’t squeak like some other big name brand that has poly bushings. I’ve had experience with Total Chaos and Icon Billet UCAs on past trucks and to be honest, the RL is decent. Of course this lift isn’t necessarily built for extreme offroad abuse like the other big names but my intention for this truck was more looks than offroad performance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I’m at a 1” Motofab now and am worried. I’m going to drop down to a 1/2” for now while I decide on UCA. I’m leaning towards Cognito’s or ReadyLift, anyone have the Cognito arms? How are they holding up? I really like the Cognitos except for the poly bushings. 

Posted (edited)
On 10/26/2020 at 8:03 PM, ALLSTAR said:

Here is closer view of ball joint

IMG_6512.jpg

IMG_6513.jpg

Honestly,  when I zoom in on those pics. I see a lot of dirt and grime in the socket and all around the ball that looks like it may have been there a while. Those should be extremely clean and lubricated. It seems to me you may have unknowingly ripped the boot on the ball joint when you installed the leveling kit causing dirt to get in the joint and grind it apart.

Edited by Firehawk T/A
Posted
7 hours ago, Firehawk T/A said:

Honestly,  when I zoom in on those pics. I see a lot of dirt and grime in the socket and all around the ball that looks like it may have been there a while. Those should be extremely clean and lubricated. It seems to me you may have unknowingly ripped the boot on the ball joint when you installed the leveling kit causing dirt to get in the joint and grind it apart.

Could there have been a hole or tear? sure, anything is possible, pretty sure there were no tears to the boot though. Working well and way better ball joint angles after install of RC upper control arms.

Posted
On 1/12/2021 at 1:14 PM, RadoPhan said:


Been running perfectly fine for me but it’s only been about 5K miles. I will say the quality on the ball joint is substantially better than stock. And the only maintenance you need is a little bit of lube for the ball joint once in a while. I like that the bushings doesn’t need lubing and doesn’t squeak like some other big name brand that has poly bushings. I’ve had experience with Total Chaos and Icon Billet UCAs on past trucks and to be honest, the RL is decent. Of course this lift isn’t necessarily built for extreme offroad abuse like the other big names but my intention for this truck was more looks than offroad performance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did they also provide a big  improvement on the angle of the upper ball joint?

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, ALLSTAR said:

Could there have been a hole or tear? sure, anything is possible, pretty sure there were no tears to the boot though. Working well and way better ball joint angles after install of RC upper control arms.

Without doubt they have better angles and look like really nice quality pieces. I also am running the Moto Fab 1 inch leveling kit on my 2020 trail boss and am trying to justify spending another $500 for new UCA's and an alignment again. I don't think the angles are that bad with only the 1" kit, but I could be wrong. I will check my ball joints from time to time and see if I can feel any play in them. So far I have a little over 5,000 miles on mine and no issues at all. Here are a couple pics. of the angles after the lift.

20210105_122757.jpg

Edited by Firehawk T/A

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,724
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    No1UKnow
    Newest Member
    No1UKnow
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,094 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...