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I have a 2017 with a 6" lift, that was installed 2 months ago, the rest of the details are to the left of the page, or in my build page in my sig. While towing a '87 Chevy home from Alabama the past weekend, I got a few codes all at once. I will try to be as detailed as I can, to help keep the guessing and questioning to a minimum.

 

The codes are as follows;

Stabilitrac

Trailer

And the ABS light is on

 

During all of this, I noticed that the Traction control switch down by the console stays unlit, meaning you can not turn it on or off (is that standard when towing, so it does not read the trailer and drive you nuts?). More issues while this is happening, I have no Cruise Control, the trailer lights work, the trailer brakes work as well.

 

We pulled over to check it out, we did notice that the ABS wiring has worn the wax coating off the frame, but has not chaffed the wires at all on either side up front. I shut the truck off for about 4 minutes, the codes went away (I wiggled the wires to see if I could get the codes to come back, didn't happen), but returned a couple miles or so down the road. We checked the trailer plug, it is fine. We were driving at 80mph, the road was "wavy" not pot holes. They all came back again, reset the codes again, drove gain on very flat ground, they came back again. So, I drove a few hundred miles that way, while we both were thinking of possibilities in our heads. This all repeated again later on. We got to Michigan, stopped for gas, reset the codes, they did not come back for the next 40 minutes while on flat roads (dropped truck off at my buddy's house). When I went to leave, I backed down his driveway with the trailer still on (about150 yards or so), no codes, put it in drive, and almost instantly they came back. I drove to a bank, sat there, reset the codes, unplugged the trailer to start eliminating possibilities. I started to drive to my house (2 1/2 hours away), got about two miles with no codes, there they are again... so, I plugged the trailer back in, so I would at least have lights, and brakes. On the way home I noticed that my volt meter way down near nine, it is usually around 14. Later on during the drive, it came back to 14. By unplugging the trailer, and the codes came back, I know it has nothing to do with the trailer electrically.

 

I know there are a few possibilities of what it could be, and there is a lot of information here.

1) Driving 80 mph on the highway while towing makes the truck rise and return much more than it normally would, like a boat on water. The 6" lift could be causing the wires to intermittently lose connection, but it did it when wavy, or completely flat roads as well.

 

2) Is this related to the TC switch, meaning it is the main issue? (Probably not)

 

3) is it the ground by the speaker in the dash on the drives side? Don't know yet. (my buddy found that searching for a possibility while I was driving in Ohio)

 

4) Or is it just as simple as I can blame it on Ohio? It started while I was driving there, and we all know how Ohio is...

 

I'm going to drive around today without the trailer attached to see what happens. My money says it going to come back, but, why does it even say service trailer?

 

 

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Your voltmeter dropping to 9 is a big clue, methinks. Vehicle computers don’t like voltage fluctuations.

I bet the cause of this drop is the cause of your other problems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Me as well, but where to start? Alternator? If so, kinda expensive to buy and find out no.

 

I am thinking that when it happens again, check the charging system, and see if it is the alternator.

Edited by 6.2Midnight

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Will probably have a code C0710 for steering wheel angle sensor. GM's first part of diagnosis is to check for suspension modifications.....

Some owners may comment on unwanted Stability Activation and/or a Service Stability message. The EBCM may have set DTC C0710. This concern may occur if the vehicle’s suspension system has been modified (Lift or Lowering Kits – refer to latest version of PIT5403 for further information), wheelbase length modified (limo, etc...), wrong steering gear installed, and/or other than stock size wheels and tires installed.

 

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27 minutes ago, 6.2Midnight said:

Me as well, but where to start? Alternator? If so, kinda expensive to buy and find out no.

 

I am thinking that when it happens again, check the charging system, and see if it is the alternator.

The newer trucks have "smart alternators" for fuel economy. It is perfectly normal for the voltmeter to drop to almost 9 on the gauge when full amperage isn't needed.

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Good information from both of you, thanks.

 

Can the steering angle be adjusted for the lift? Also, why so long to wait and come on? Lift has been on for two months, and never came on during the trip to Alabama, just cane on about 3/4 the way home. I will say that when on the way home, truck on the trailer, when the road was wave I could see it coming on, but as mentioned, it came on while on flat roads as well.

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While on the road, did not have my reader.  I just put my reader on the truck if it comes up again, I'll know the codes.

 Just went for a eight mile ride, nothing came up. I am wondering if the weight of the trailer and truck was just enough to push me over the threshold of a code. I did have the load leveling bars on, and the truck and trailer did look pretty level though, I always check that. I have installed air bags in the rear, in case I have a heavy load, I can level the truck. I can't stand it when a truck sags. Still doesn't explain why it took so long to come up. I basically drive from Alabama to Ohio before it started acting up.

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One thing to try if you are subscribed to Onstar is ask them to read the codes if your check engine light comes on.

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Forgot to add in original post, I lost my cruise control during all of this as well. It does come back when I clear them though, just like everything else.

 

Good idea about the Onstar, never would have thought of that...

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Well, two days later driving around with nothing loaded, no issues. So, that would lead me to think that my truck is near the edge of the steering angle fault without being loaded. Why did it take so long for it to show? Not sure, maybe just hit the right roads at the right time. It may not have faulted if I wasn't doing 80 mph though, the waviness probably would not have been so bad. I can't explain why it did it on flat ground for the rest of the trip. I'll blame it on Ohio, I can sleep good with that decision...

 

Thanks for the input, and help. This is what makes our community great!

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You loose Cruise Control when you lost the Stabilitrac.   (they use the elec brakes to set etc).   Volts will go down to 9 all the time.   This is normal.

As for the real issue.. debt it is steering angle.   

If you have a short on the trailer it will throw many codes.   if the trailer battery is bad (or low)  you will get codes.   "Check trailer wiring" is the common one.   I'd grab a trailer wiring tester and plug that in.   DO some driving and see what it does.   Then, if no codes put the original trailer back on and load it (weight) all to the rear of the trailer...   Drop your bag sot 5-15 (based on lowest PSI specs).   See if it codes.   If it does, reset codes and try another trailer.   

My $ is on bad wiring at the trailer or bad trailer battery.

 

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Interesting... , there is never been a battery in the trailer. There is supposed to be one for the brakes, in case of separation. All the lights on the trailer work. I will hook the trailer back up next week with no weight, and see if it comes back. I drove all around last week with no trailer, and no issues. I just drove three hours one way last night, no issues, no trailer. You may be on to something, I hope not, but I want it fixed either way.

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It turns out it was the wiring from factory at the Left Front. The way they routed it, and the length was short seems to be the issue. I fixed the break, and the just left the plastic push pin unsecured, no problems since...

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