Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, TrailBossLemonEdition said:

Well I picked my truck up for the last and final repair to get things right. I got the most updated window (FUYAO E4 43R-000072) It water tested and everything was water tight so far. They still had shitty looking sealant around the window, but not as bad as the hack job they did before. 

Does your frame above the slider look like the picture I posted earlier today? Straight up?

Posted
56 minutes ago, Chip said:

My window is shown below. My Denali was built 8/19 and I took delivery a year ago this month. Window began leaking a month ago on drivers side. Took it in last week and the Dealer is waiting for bolts etc. to show up. 

C3DCE459-BA45-4066-9D7F-B42CF822B539.jpeg

I think we're all misusing the part numbers. I think that's the glass number, not the entire assembly number. I may be wrong though.

Posted
1 hour ago, cltsig said:

Is that THE window which does not leak?  I sure as hell hope so. I just checked my 2020 AT4 built in July 2020 and that’s what it has. 

Supposedly but I think there’s been some in here that leak. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, JAP90 said:

Does your frame above the slider look like the picture I posted earlier today? Straight up?

Yes it’s the same one posted earlier. 

Posted
On 9/17/2020 at 7:22 PM, JAP90 said:

I think we're all misusing the part numbers. I think that's the glass number, not the entire assembly number. I may be wrong though.

Yah - I have that E4 glass and it leaks. The incompetence is laughable. 

Posted

I have 2020 GMC 3500hd Denali Ultimate with the Duramax. At 300 miles I noticed a small stream of water coming down the rear window on the drivers side. The dealership removed the spoiler and observed the hairline cracking in plastic. They applied the seam sealer per the bulletin.  A week or so later in a heavy rain the drip was still there in the same spot. The dealer than installed a new window. This new window now leaks on the passenger side worse than before. They state this window also has hairline cracks in the plastic and they need to order another new one. I am not too optimistic as my truck was built in June of this year and the replacement window was just installed. Sounds like the same flawed design will be installed another time. Really disappointed in GM and the quality in a 80k truck. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Pate Services said:

I have 2020 GMC 3500hd Denali Ultimate with the Duramax. At 300 miles I noticed a small stream of water coming down the rear window on the drivers side. The dealership removed the spoiler and observed the hairline cracking in plastic. They applied the seam sealer per the bulletin.  A week or so later in a heavy rain the drip was still there in the same spot. The dealer than installed a new window. This new window now leaks on the passenger side worse than before. They state this window also has hairline cracks in the plastic and they need to order another new one. I am not too optimistic as my truck was built in June of this year and the replacement window was just installed. Sounds like the same flawed design will be installed another time. Really disappointed in GM and the quality in a 80k truck. 

I’m hoping for a class action lawsuit at this point. TSB isn’t doing it. Can’t believe I’m dealing with this on a brand new truck too. I’d have someone else make these windows, clearly Fuyao is garbage. Which comes at little surprise. 

  • Like 1
Posted
19 minutes ago, Pate Services said:

I have 2020 GMC 3500hd Denali Ultimate with the Duramax. At 300 miles I noticed a small stream of water coming down the rear window on the drivers side. The dealership removed the spoiler and observed the hairline cracking in plastic. They applied the seam sealer per the bulletin.  A week or so later in a heavy rain the drip was still there in the same spot. The dealer than installed a new window. This new window now leaks on the passenger side worse than before. They state this window also has hairline cracks in the plastic and they need to order another new one. I am not too optimistic as my truck was built in June of this year and the replacement window was just installed. Sounds like the same flawed design will be installed another time. Really disappointed in GM and the quality in a 80k truck. 

Sorry you've had this crappy experience, like the rest of us have. 

 

I've just learned to live with my leaking rear. I took it in the first time, had the sealant applied, and it seemed to slow the occurrence of the leaks. After reading stories just like yours - where owners keep bringing their trucks in over and over for more "fixes", I just decided to put a towel between my rear window and my seat, forget about leak and move on. I can honestly say I barely think about it anymore, and I enjoy the truck again. The best part has been staying away from days/weeks messing with this at my dealer - with no end in sight. 

 

Probably not the best, but I've moved into the "acceptance" stage of grief. ? 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have always suspected something like that. I even told the dealer that since I purchased the truck I hear clicks, clunks, and thuds coming from the top rear of the cab. It happens when the truck sits hot in the sun all day and starts the noises on my ride home as the cabin cools down. Sounds like something expanding and contracting as the inside temp changes. Even my kids in the back are like what's that sound. 

Posted

I had mine serviced last week they filled it with the sealant and since we’ve been getting rain here in Texas the last few days I’ve been looking it over real good and it’s not leaking but it’s only been a week. Since  it’s been serviced now I see 2 good size cracks in the plastic window frame needless to say I will be calling the dealership to get another appointment there gonna have to replace the window I didn’t spend the kind of money to have a cracked rear window also I see lots or rust on the window as well.

CC65D7F2-F6AA-4588-8A18-B48D42601078.jpeg

Posted

Kind of have to zoom in to see it. Idk why the camera has a hard time catching it looking at the window it’s plain as day. 

Posted

It sucks but I think the best remedy is to ask for a solid rear window. I’ll probably do that when mine eventually leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted
22 minutes ago, Jav_eee said:

It sucks but I think the best remedy is to ask for a solid rear window. I’ll probably do that when mine eventually leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’m thinking about asking for a solid the slider is pretty useless too me. I’ll never open it. The sealant seems to have stopped my leaking but was just done last week. But I can’t accept knowing there’s cracks in the frame just waiting to crack through and leak. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...