Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up that it is possible to financially get out of the truck.

 

I bought a ‘20 LT TB back in January ... rear window started leaking in February and was fixed per TSB.  In August, started leaking again.  Instead of going back to the dealer, I started emailing Ram/Toyota/Ford dealers and was able to make a deal for a new Ram Big Horn Night Edition.  Very comparable to the TB minus the “off road” features.  My TB was a lease with 5k miles on the odometer.  The payoff was $43k and the Ram dealer gave me $45k.

 

I realize some people have brand loyalty, but if you aren’t and don’t feel like dealing with trips to the dealer or gambling on your state’s lemon law, you can get out of the truck and not be upside down.

Posted
36 minutes ago, Back in Black AT4 said:

Still no leak here on my 2020 AT4 (Feb 2020 build date) and I've been blasting it weekly with the pressure washer when washing the truck...

From my 18 months of experience... it’s not the high pressure or density water applications that cause leaking. Instead, it’s the slow, consistent soaker scenarios. (Eg a light 2 hour rain fall), etc. 
 

YMMV. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
On 9/27/2020 at 11:54 PM, econometrics said:

From my 18 months of experience... it’s not the high pressure or density water applications that cause leaking. Instead, it’s the slow, consistent soaker scenarios. (Eg a light 2 hour rain fall), etc. 
 

YMMV. 

Yup, I ditto this.  That's my experience as well.  

Edited by SilveradoRST
Grammar
  • Like 2
Posted

I hope I have the new window. Mine is a recent build. I didn't want the sliding rear window anyway. It's basically useless.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Posted
6 hours ago, econometrics said:

From my 18 months of experience... it’s not the high pressure or density water applications that cause leaking. Instead, it’s the slow, consistent soaker scenarios. (Eg a light 2 hour rain fall), etc. 
 

YMMV. 

this exactly!

  • Like 1
Posted

So yes. Just got my truck back and it was apparently leaking from a body seam. Pull out the headliner and there’s a bar welded in at the seam. They just sealed it more, so far so good. 

Posted

I was thinking of adding the rear slider to my 2020 LT Trail Boss,but after reading through all of this I’m glad mine didn’t come with the rear slider...What a bunch of bullshit!!!! 40 plus K for our trucks and we have to deal with this bullshit??GM obviously knows about the issue and could give 2 ******...They really need to get there ****** together and fix every single one of these trucks that are having the leak problem...Totally unacceptable 

Posted (edited)

I started a similar thread in the 2020HD forum before I realized how common of a problem is. This is my latest.

So today was the day my truck went in to get the second replacement window installed. They informed me they found a gap in the top bead of sealant that was from the last install. Rather than replace the window as planned to correct the flaw they dropped the headliner and pulled the spoiler. They put a thick bead of sealant along the top just like they did in the first repair attempt. Best part is they ran it though their car wash to leak test it and they crushed my passenger side mirror. Truck now needs whole new mirror. 

Edited by Pate Services
Spelling
Posted
2 hours ago, Pate Services said:

I started a similar thread in the 2020HD forum before I realized how common of a problem is. This is my latest.

So today was the day my truck went in to get the second replacement window installed. They informed me they found a gap in the top bead of sealant that was from the last install. Rather than replace the window as planned to correct the flaw they dropped the headliner and pulled the spoiler. They put a thick bead of sealant along the top just like they did in the first repair attempt. Best part is they ran it though their car wash to leak test it and they crushed my passenger side mirror. Truck now needs whole new mirror. 

This is (unfortunately) exactly why I stopped taking mine to the dealer, even though I still have a slight leak. It’s just not worth the hassle and dealing with these noodle-brained halfwits. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I still haven't taken mine in, i just dont want to deal with the hassel when i know nothing will work at this point. I need to start doing research on a none sliding window and just pay for it myself and be done with it.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Add another one... 2020 AT4 built in Sept/Oct of 2019... thought I was good but now at just over 11K miles it’s got a slight leak in the drivers side... this is not gonna make me happy going through all this crap now... B7A8C78E-BD8C-455A-8621-0F8597C86CF2.jpeg.87f0446a7a60ebfdf9da145e11c80985.jpeg74D4C30B-97D8-4068-A9DF-E77E299A4D5E.jpeg.6201c01174815c9965cc801ab85d250b.jpeg

Posted
On 9/22/2020 at 4:49 PM, econometrics said:

Sorry you've had this crappy experience, like the rest of us have. 

 

I've just learned to live with my leaking rear. I took it in the first time, had the sealant applied, and it seemed to slow the occurrence of the leaks. After reading stories just like yours - where owners keep bringing their trucks in over and over for more "fixes", I just decided to put a towel between my rear window and my seat, forget about leak and move on. I can honestly say I barely think about it anymore, and I enjoy the truck again. The best part has been staying away from days/weeks messing with this at my dealer - with no end in sight. 

 

Probably not the best, but I've moved into the "acceptance" stage of grief. ? 

I would be careful with this approach. I too had towels behind the seats from the second day of owning it, and spent 4 months looking for the leak to run off the side of the slider track. However, my first leak was in the far corner of the window and if I had not looked back there with a flashlight diagonally, I would have never seen it. It was behind the trim coving the rear seat belt. A towel won't fit back there without removing the trim. Just FYI. Watch back there, too.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Ok I hope I do not jinx myself, I have a 2020 GMC Sierra SLT 3400 miles with back slider window E9, Truck was made in Mexico build date 1/20, I have used the slider window many times, I looked for hair line cracks and did not find any, Also removed the rear seat belt cover and inspected, I went out a little while ago and soaked the window for a good 5 min and inspected again and no leaks, would it be possible I got one that may not leak or is it inevitable it will leak? Jus wundering if I should pull the spoiler and do the bead of seal across the top...  I would jus thought that all these trucks sold that if all leaked there would be a recall or class action suit... Thanks for your replies in advance....

Edited by Donnie Summers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,911
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    jaszr2
    Newest Member
    jaszr2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 512 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...