Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Nope. Picked it up the same day. Wasn't even that good of a job. I can see the yellow sealant above the window as well. Are the 2020's leaking as well? My confidence in this thing is very low. I'll dump it if I have to keep dealing with this.  Is a new rear window even going to fix this? 

Yeah there’s people on here with 20s


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 minutes ago, Lunar68 said:

Nope. Picked it up the same day. Wasn't even that good of a job. I can see the yellow sealant above the window as well. Are the 2020's leaking as well? My confidence in this thing is very low. I'll dump it if I have to keep dealing with this.  Is a new rear window even going to fix this? 

I am by no means an expert but from reading this thread seems like the TSB called from Kent High Tech Clear Sealant or equivalent but there was another fella here that had the yellow stuff and it also failed.  Not to say if you got the clear stuff it would have work.  Also don’t know if you live in the salt belt but the sealant needs >16 hours to cure properly in above 50f temps.  And someone here had theorized that maybe the lack of individual seals on all the mounting holes between the spoiler and cab could cause more water to leak in.  There is one long seal that runs along the underneath top edge of the spoiler.  If the tech didn’t tighten the spoiler to the cab, I can see the leak being worse. Of course this doesn’t explain why the non-sliding windows don’t leak.  Lots of info.  Glad this thread exists.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Its back at the dealer this morning. I "encouraged" them to this time follow the TSB and not use what looks like yellow great stuff on it. I am fairly certain that the tech didn't even remove the rear headliner to remove the third break light per the tsb. I told them I didn't want to hear back until the correct tsb was done and the correct sealant has time to set. Probably was a typical rush job as its looks like Chevy is giving the dealer 1.5 hrs to do the work. And now they are having to re do it. I'm sure done correctly it takes longer than that.  I actually use to work at this dealer, its not where I purchased it but its a Chevy problem so the service advisers are not giving me the standard mumbo jumbo. Hopefully its done right this time.  

Posted
Its back at the dealer this morning. I "encouraged" them to this time follow the TSB and not use what looks like yellow great stuff on it. I am fairly certain that the tech didn't even remove the rear headliner to remove the third break light per the tsb. I told them I didn't want to hear back until the correct tsb was done and the correct sealant has time to set. Probably was a typical rush job as its looks like Chevy is giving the dealer 1.5 hrs to do the work. And now they are having to re do it. I'm sure done correctly it takes longer than that.  I actually use to work at this dealer, its not where I purchased it but its a Chevy problem so the service advisers are not giving me the standard mumbo jumbo. Hopefully its done right this time.  

It’d take an hour and half to drop the headliner correctly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 2
Posted
Its back at the dealer this morning. I "encouraged" them to this time follow the TSB and not use what looks like yellow great stuff on it. I am fairly certain that the tech didn't even remove the rear headliner to remove the third break light per the tsb. I told them I didn't want to hear back until the correct tsb was done and the correct sealant has time to set. Probably was a typical rush job as its looks like Chevy is giving the dealer 1.5 hrs to do the work. And now they are having to re do it. I'm sure done correctly it takes longer than that.  I actually use to work at this dealer, its not where I purchased it but its a Chevy problem so the service advisers are not giving me the standard mumbo jumbo. Hopefully its done right this time.  
There is no "correct" caulk job that will fix this problem. Anyone that says so is lying to you. They caulked my 19 three times and the leak always came back.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted
2 minutes ago, ShamrockShooter said:

There is no "correct" caulk job that will fix this problem. Anyone that says so is lying to you. They caulked my 19 three times and the leak always came back.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk
 

So it seems that the only real hope is a brand new rear glass assembly.

 

But even then..

Posted

Taking mine in today. Only leaking in two small spots, no headliner damage...yet.

Funny thing is it wont leak with a hose or pressure washer, or sitting on flat ground. It poured last night and it was dry as a bone this morning parked on the street if I park it in my driveway on an incline it leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

At what point does GM authorize a new rear window to be installed ? Do they have to do the "caulk" job first ?  Any GM techs on here with any advice?? .. Thanks... Sure would be nice if GM looked at these forums to see what issues their products are having. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Maybe someone should accidentally drive a golf ball thru the glass and let safe lite replace it correctly... IDK at this point..... 

  • Like 1
Posted

My entire glass assembly should be arriving today and the dealer has a glass company they contract out to do the install. They also advised me that the truck will sit indoors after the install for 24 hours before I can pick it up.

 

Im hoping this resolves the issue but like anything else ill be paranoid and keeping a constant eye on it all the time now

Posted
On 2/5/2020 at 11:22 AM, Centrebaseball said:

Someone a long while back mentioned class action discussions with a law firm.  I wonder what became of that? 
 

I looked at one of my rental car invoices while I was driving around waiting for a window - 2 grand! GM is losing their shirt  no on this stuff I would imagine. 

I've put on 1200 miles with their loaner car and still going.   They could have just replaced the rear window and been done with this mess. 

  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, Lunar68 said:

At what point does GM authorize a new rear window to be installed ? Do they have to do the "caulk" job first ?  Any GM techs on here with any advice?? .. Thanks... Sure would be nice if GM looked at these forums to see what issues their products are having. 

Seems to me like good dealers who want their customer happy have been finding ways to replace windows and frames which is the correct fix here imo. I have seen very few caulking jobs hold up for people on this website and last, certainly none of them looked professional or something you would expect to get with a dealer warranty fix.

Posted
On 2/5/2020 at 12:50 PM, wacnstac said:

Yikes, just bought a 2020 LT trail boss with rear slider without knowing about this issue. Haven't picked up the truck yet (Saturday). Any advice? Should I buy the extended warranty? Is the extended warranty bought at one dealership good at all of them, in case I switch dealers at some point? 

Take it for a test spin and go wash it at a car wash with a high pressure washer.  Make sure you spend a few minutes on each corner of the top rear window \ brake light area and see if it leaks.   

Posted
On 2/5/2020 at 6:10 PM, JohnCasey said:

GM keeps telling me that they want to give me compensation but they can’t tell me what. They only say I have to wait until my truck is repaired and then and only them can they talk about compensation.  Kinda like a health care law. Got to pass it to see what we just voted for 

PLEASE reply back and let us know what the compensation is.  I'm going to inquire also.  They told me the same thing about "making it right" and compensation.  They also said that if ti's something that can't be fixed they will look at getting me out of the truck.   I won't count on that but I want an extended warranty after all of the recalls and this window garbage.  With my luck this will fail right at 36,001. 

Posted

Loop

2 minutes ago, Smitty said:

Take it for a test spin and go wash it at a car wash with a high pressure washer.  Make sure you spend a few minutes on each corner of the top rear window \ brake light area and see if it leaks.   

Yeap will do. Still getting aquanted with the truck at this point and need to read 96 pages of this thread to figure out what the best course of action is o ce I have a leak and the tsb number to refer a dealer to. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...