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First oil change mileage


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Posted

I’ll throw my hat in this type of thread again. Oil is cheap do what ever. I’m retired from the equipment business. That business deals with hundreds of customers. We’ve done the oil testing. Used amsoil done the extended. Redline, Mobil 1 etc. We have owned all the performance vehicles between us in my family from the sixties till now. Done the building, some drag racing. My first rebuild was a V-12 Detroit diesel in a TS 24 earth mover and 302 Chevy in a 64 SS impala, my brothers. I never lost an engine but one 64 Belvedere 318 on purpose. If you want to change your oil early go ahead, but you don’t need to.


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Posted

Did my first change at 249 miles, to Mobil 1. (night before 2500 mile trip)

 

Dealer did 2nd change (free oil change) at 4,500 and i'll have my next free oil change done at about 7k and from then on i'll do Mobil 1 about every 9 months or so (I do lots of short trips since I'm 1.2 miles from work)

Posted
3 hours ago, ForumUser said:

OK - I'm signing off - facts have been offered in lieu of feelings.

I think that's why your point is moot.

You think oil changes are based on "facts", when it is really based on preference and "dirty-ness". 

Compare it to FDA "use by" dates. You can argue that milk should be only drunk "fresh from a cow", drunk by the stamped date on the carton, drunk until it curdles, or drunk until it stops being liquid. Facts and science can tell you what state it is in, but only you get to decide how long before you throw it out. I see oil the same way. It got pulled from the ground and refined so I can consume it how I chose.   

Posted

Nope - the fact is that you are doing zip when you change your oil 300 miles after engine assembly.  There is no dirtiness nor preference involved.

 

You have simply wasted 8 quarts of synthetic oil.

Posted

So the inside of an assembly line produced engine is 100% clean and the engine doesn’t have any parts to wear in or seat with use?

Posted

Nothing is 100%, but the cleanliness is such that the oil filter will provide suitable protection for the first interval to change.

 

Much has been researched and written on this.

Posted

I know it is not the same, but here is the end of my transfer case plug at my 800 mile "flush and fill all the factory fluids".

I sort of wish I had opened the oil filter to see what was in that filter's media too. Sure it got filtered out, but even the best filters are not 100%, so grit is circulating.  

I am aware that the transfer case doesn't have a filter, so the magnet is the filter, but when I changed the transfer case again at 15,000 miles, it had no more than 1/10 this kind of "dirtiness".

I am fine with that being proof enough that the first change of lubricating oils and filters, is plenty different from the rest, and not a waste of anything.  

 

20180722_075942.jpg

Posted

Okay my last post in this thread was just to make people smile...now my 2 cents. I changed mine at 2123 miles...I did this because I had been checking it every weekend to make sure I wasn’t consuming oil at an excessive rate. Up until about 1800 miles the oil looked really pretty clean, still had that amber color. Then it started getting darker and darker...not black and nasty but enough to warrant an oil change in my mind. My guess is that the filter did its job and decided 1800 miles was enough and started letting stuff through . If it matters the oil life computer showed it was at 74% remaining...I don’t think so. Dealer owed me two freebies so I took it there. Service manager said he couldn’t understand why more people don’t do the first or even second before the OLM gets to 20% but they wait. People can do what they want but to me a good rule of thumb is that if YOU notice it looking dirty, why not change it?

Posted

Smiling, also.

 

You don’t NEED to change it when it gets darker ... because there is nothing wrong with it ... it is just darker.

 

Do you believe the oil filter is working?  If so, then the oil itself, per your feeling, is deteriorating or losing its ability to lubricate and suspend particles?

 

Nah ...here’s a very basic summary of why that isn’t true ...https://auto.howstuffworks.com/5-engine-oil-myths2.htm

Posted

Btw - transfer case and differential gears mesh with some significant force... and create bits of metal as they mesh ... the magnet is there for that reason.

 

The lubricant is different, the temperature regime is different, the metallurgy is different, etc.

Posted
13 minutes ago, ForumUser said:

It’s kinda hard to walk away when inaccurate information is being provided.

Thanks for checking back in a keeping us "in the know". :) Here is a guy who's title is "Quaker State Technology Director", he says you should follow your vehicle recommendations, but adds:

"he changes his own oil much sooner than recommended. "Oil is the cheapest maintenance I can do to prolong the life of my investment," he says. "I'm a do-it-myself guy, I enjoy it, and I'm not going to argue about $20 or $30. As a consumer, the best choice you have to prolong the life of your engine is your oil, the lifeblood of the engine."

What an idiot, huh?

 

https://www.kbb.com/car-news/all-the-latest/oil-chronicles-oil-change-intervals/2000010240/

Posted

I think it would be pretty embarrassing for him to NOT support early oils changes ... ?

 

I read the article - pretty generic statements without technical attribution ... and, it was related to KBB.

 

At $20-30 he must be getting a break on price, too!  Unless he is still using non-syn ...

 

I think Pennzoil and QS are owned by same company ... Pennzoil is prevalent in synthetic community ... don’t think I would lean towards QS.

 

Bobistheoilguy.com might be helpful to spend some time on.

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