The "Catch Can" Explained - By Elite Engineering

[STRMTRPR]

2 hours ago, Hillwood said:

No can for me!

...LOL now that's cold! We hit around -20F on the cold snaps in the winter but we seen a monthly average of around 0F in January (coldest month).

.. On the really cold days I empty my can when I get home from driving so I don't need to worry about condensation freezing in the can

 

[Capt Bob]

Since we're on the topic of cold air, would not a can located in a cooler/colder area have a better collection rate than one placed in a warm/hot environment? I understand the practicality of locating within the engine bay but logic would dictate a higher quantity of oil would condense in a cooler can.

 

Thoughts.

[SS502]

9 minutes ago, Capt Bob said:

Since we're on the topic of cold air, would not a can located in a cooler/colder area have a better collection rate than one placed in a warm/hot environment? I understand the practicality of locating within the engine bay but logic would dictate a higher quantity of oil would condense in a cooler can.

 

Thoughts.

Capt...while mine is still in the engine bay it is not right next to the engine assembly, I have mine mounted off the left side fender. It still gets hot but not so hot you can't touch it. I have had comments from others that my waste looks much different (as in mainly oil) from others. I have not gotten the "chocolate milk" results others have. I do live in Florida if that matters. I completely understand why someone living where you can freeze Hell would be very leery of using a CC. 

[Capt Bob]

I understand the desire not to run a can when you live within pissin' distance of the North Pole. I get chilled just thinking about it. I come from 30 miles south of Miami so..... That stated, I'm thinking colder surfaces inside the can should remove a greater percentage of oil from the crank case vapor. I'm still on the fence here but were I to install a can, I've been trying to think through where I'd actually locate the can and how to plumb it in for accessibility.

[SS502]

48 minutes ago, Capt Bob said:

I understand the desire not to run a can when you live within pissin' distance of the North Pole. I get chilled just thinking about it. I come from 30 miles south of Miami so..... That stated, I'm thinking colder surfaces inside the can should remove a greater percentage of oil from the crank case vapor. I'm still on the fence here but were I to install a can, I've been trying to think through where I'd actually locate the can and how to plumb it in for accessibility.

 

On ‎2‎/‎17‎/‎2019 at 4:06 PM, SS502 said:

New PCV and install/relocated completed.

I have mine off the fender and it allows uninterrupted access to the oil fill and dipstick. To empty, I just slide a small pan under the cans on the spare battery tray, open the drain valves and let them drain. No mess whatsoever.

[Capt Bob]

That's a lot of plumbing.

[Capt Bob]

On 1/27/2017 at 10:06 AM, Joe@UPRproducts said:

 

 

 

The color is ( very normal ) when you mix gas, oil, and condensation. ( I see this with many forums over and over since mid-2006 and watched it run a continuous learning cycle to newcomers )

 

The condensation is more of a product of the catch can than the engine as the internal engine heat evaporates the condensation in minutes. Now when you get to the placement and design of the catch can, that's the true culprit to all the condensation and moisture that builds up in most catch cans today. There's a reason we have so much time in the design and position of our catch can system as we have had to improve the internal coalescing function and oil control to be able to perform better in hotter location to eliminate the need for having to drain and monitor the catch can so frequently.

 

This is the single biggest reason a manufacturer will not install catch cans from the factory. You will notice that we install our system near the header to allow the can to maintain proper operating temperature and greatly reduce the amount of condensation that builds up in the system for less frequent monitoring and maintenance. I personally have worked on improving the catch can function so it would be more user-friendly and require less maintenance.

 

For anyone out there that wants to have less maintenance, you can relocate your catch can system to a warmer location to reduce the frequency and amount of moisture collecting in the system. Also, note that catch can systems with poor coalescing and oil separation properties will not do as well in the hotter locations and that is why so many choose to mount them in the coldest location as it improves the lack of performance in so many catch can designs.

 

We strive for continuous improvement in our internal coalescing properties and oil separation. keeping all our systems modular in design allows us to be able to develop upgrades that can be added to any of our systems as they become available.

 

I know this post was more than just information about condensation. But, I really want everyone to understand the information and knowledge we can share with years of experience and development in oil separation and the true PCV function.

 

Thank you, Joe

So I re-read the thread and came across this. Maybe I'm overthinking the location thing.

[SS502]

4 hours ago, Capt Bob said:

So I re-read the thread and came across this. Maybe I'm overthinking the location thing.

Well there you have it! It’s gotta be next to the engine block or headers lol...I’ll keep mine where it’s at and let it keep doing it’s job  Oh and as for the plumbing, it’s probably just that most people aren’t running a dual can setup. My lines are completely out of the way too.

[3tspapat]

I think we are good on the locations! We may have them in the colder part of the engine, but they are still in FL and CA, which are the warmest areas of contiguous USA! By this logic, it should be fine anywhere on the vehicle as long as it's still in CA or FL. 

[UnlimitedMatt]

More information to show if these work or not...with actual testing results.

 

 

[Elite Engineering]

Good information, but they should compare the Elite E2 or E2-X Catch Can against any of these, and see the real difference.

 

 

[UnlimitedMatt]

11 hours ago, Elite Engineering said:

Good information, but they should compare the Elite E2 or E2-X Catch Can against any of these, and see the real difference.

 

 

Oh I agree!  

Full disclosure: I'm using an Elite Engineering E2 catch can and clean side separator.

I am amazed that this catch can collects more on my 5.3 Silverado than it did on my supercharged 3.6 in my Canyon.

[Elite Engineering]

12 hours ago, UnlimitedMatt said:

Oh I agree!  

Full disclosure: I'm using an Elite Engineering E2 catch can and clean side separator.

I am amazed that this catch can collects more on my 5.3 Silverado than it did on my supercharged 3.6 in my Canyon.

Thank YOU!!

[Paintor]

V4 turned off. 25,000 miles. K&N filters on valve covers for PCV system to suck in fresh air.

 

I am 800 miles from next GM (they gotta sticky for 25,800 on my windshield)  oil change and down 1/2 a quart. Did it get burnt in tha combustion chamber or did the K&N valve cover breathers vent 1/2 a quart of Zero weight oil to the atmosphere?

 

Please tell Elite Engineering...where did it go?

[Grumpy Bear]

On ‎4‎/‎22‎/‎2019 at 9:13 AM, UnlimitedMatt said:

More information to show if these work or not...with actual testing results.

The average intake deposits minus the exhaust deposits came to 1/10th of a gram over 10,000 miles (16K kilometers) per valve. That's the data from the graph. Look yourself. Don't take Grumpy Ol' Homer's word for it. 

 

A penny weighs about 2 grams. So 1/20th of a penny weight. Put a penny in your hand and ask if 1/20th of that mass is significant. IF the rate is linear, that is a penny worth over 200,000 miles. Hold that penny again. Get out the wife food scale and weigh one yourself. Do you trust your own tactile senses? 

 

Why half the exhaust deposits? 1.) Not all deposits are PCV related. EGR also leaves deposits as does guide as does reversion. Catch can wont prevent those deposits. 2.) Catch Can did not remove ANY deposits from the exhaust valves. None, zip. Thus supporting point #1. If you don't buy this then double the figures and ask if it matters. 

 

The actual test wasn't a backyard YouTube video. SAE report so I give it some weight. The motor was turbo and subject to more 'blow-by' than an NA motor. The mileage on the motor was insane...worst case test if ever one I saw. 

 

Graphed and on a PERCENTAGE basis it looks huge but given the point of reference of a penny.... hold that penny again. 

 

Asides. Jason pulled liquid from his motor and it was water with a film of oil. Looked awful? Nope, looked normal. Water and fuel returned by the PCV is a good thing and hurts nothing. Second, the filter media in the cans shown was a bronze filter. Same type used in oil separators for air compressors. Someone on this forum was being beat up for using such a device he bought at a Tractor Supply on the cheap. Guess he didn't spend enough money. 

 

If I were inclined, and I am not, the $25 unit will have a HUGE impact PERCENTAGE wise even if it is only 30% efficient. So I need to spend 10 to 20 times that amount for what reason again? 

 

But hey, it's your money and I'm just a Donut eat' n Homer.