Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to link a thread I started that has some information that people are looking for here.

 

Eli

-

  • 1 month later...
Posted

If anyone is looking to buy this system, part number 19417165 for the non-Bose system, retails for $1250. I removed mine along with the Infinity Kappa speakers with door and harness adapters for all four doors from my 2020 Trail Boss before I traded it in for my 2021 AT4. $1000 for everything. Located in Michigan and will install it if you come to my house but willing to ship at buyers expense. Text me at (989)450-6058 or email [email protected] 

IMG_20210425_103813877.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone know the impedance of the kicker sub? I am having an issue where the amp intermittently shuts off. Sometimes for only a few seconds sometimes for a few minutes. I'm thinking I might just replace the amp but finding the kicker amp that comes with the system has been a lesson in futility. I need to know the ohm load of sub in order to pick the correct amp. 

Posted

I just picked up the kicker sub and hope to install it in my AT4 with Bose this weekend.  This thread should be helpful. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/7/2021 at 7:39 PM, TxTruckMan said:

I just picked up the kicker sub and hope to install it in my AT4 with Bose this weekend.  This thread should be helpful. 

How’s it sound?  I just bought an AT4 last week and bought the Kicker amp plus powered sub kit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/17/2021 at 11:35 PM, Gmoeller said:

How’s it sound?  I just bought an AT4 last week and bought the Kicker amp plus powered sub kit.

Honestly, I'm a little disappointed.  I was expecting more.  I connected the Kicker Amp to the factory Bose sub inputs and it was barely noticeable.  I had to increase the gain all the way to get a noticeable output.  The base is very clean, but it doesn't hit or thump like I was hoping.  I might go back in there and switch the polarity to see if that makes a difference.  If not, I'm going to try and connect to the forward right speaker like the instructions say to see what difference that makes.

Posted
On 10/7/2021 at 7:39 PM, TxTruckMan said:

I just picked up the kicker sub and hope to install it in my AT4 with Bose this weekend.  This thread should be helpful. 

 

Posted (edited)

I have a 2021 1500 AT4 NON-BOSE system.


Dropped my truck off at Dealer today to install the kicker powered-Subwoofer AND the second amp (part 19417165).

 

They called 4 hours later and said the Kicker powered sub PLUS the second amp won’t work in my truck.  This is part 19417165.

WTF?

They said I can only use the 19417164…which is the Sub only system.

 

Is this true?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Gmoeller
Details
Posted

That is strange you should get a second opinion at another dealer or a good stereo shop with a good rep. They probably didn’t feel comfortable installing it.

Posted
3 hours ago, Gmoeller said:

I have a 2021 1500 AT4 NON-BOSE system.


Dropped my truck off at Dealer today to install the kicker powered-Subwoofer AND the second amp (part 19417165).

 

They called 4 hours later and said the Kicker powered sub PLUS the second amp won’t work in my truck.  This is part 19417165.

WTF?

They said I can only use the 19417164…which is the Sub only system.

 

Is this true?

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are two different sub plus speaker amp kits - one for the IOR stereo and one for the IOS stereo.  Think the part # is 19417166 for the IOS system.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, RCF71 said:

There are two different sub plus speaker amp kits - one for the IOR stereo and one for the IOS stereo.  Think the part # is 19417166 for the IOS system.

The part #19417166 specifically says not compatible with IOS system.  And I have the IOS system. 😞

 

But thank you for responding.

 

EA2C1BD0-2D1A-410B-B218-1588239CE414.jpeg

Edited by Gmoeller
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Gmoeller said:

The part #19417166 specifically says not compatible with IOS system.  And I have the IOS system. 😞

 

But thank you for responding.

 

EA2C1BD0-2D1A-410B-B218-1588239CE414.jpeg

 

I see just the opposite when I look them up.  Interestingly though, it doesn’t show up as an option for ‘21 trucks but does for ‘20 and prior years - I didn’t think ‘21’s were any different than ‘20’s but who knows.  Might be worth a call to Kicker to clear it up.

 

 

BD6EDF99-CB30-442F-8021-F3835B7A4288.png

 

D8B34087-38D2-4BBA-89D3-607D18D984B1.png

Edited by RCF71
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I installed the 19417165 two amp system in my new 2022 TB Ltd.  I am very happy with the sub but not impressed with the second amp for the front speakers.  Also I have to adjust the balance over to about halfway to the left to equal out the left and right front speakers.  Did anyone else have to adjust the balance on to get the fronts equal?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Very true.   However.  GM did give those trucks with the single speed case Terrain Mode.  Terrain Mode mimics 4LO minus the gear reduction and torque capability.  It uses the ABS/braking system to perform the operation.  It also gives these one pedal driving (sort of) when in Terrain Mode via the active brake during throttle lift.     Does it have its limitations over a true 2 speed case?  Sure.  But it works.         
    • Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...