I was wondering if anyone can recommendations of companies to install cermaic coating in the Chicagoland area? I have heard of some companies doing it for around 2k but was wondering if anyone had any recommendations. Any help is appreciated!
Hey guys just wanted to share tis bit of info that I was able to find. It was difficult locating a driveshaft for a 14+ GM 1500 so I hope this helps.
After spending tons of time trying to find a less complicated way to upgrade my DS I visited alldrivelines.com (referral from a member) and saw the 800hp rated 2 piece shaft. I called to verify compatibility and was let down by the rep. It is not user friendly for the 4x4's.
However, after asking me some great questions Shelby @ Alldrivelines (661) 633-2303 simply said why don't you get our 1,200hp rated driveshaft for the 14+ GM 1500.. I said ..."wait huh". Tell me more. This is currently not listed on the website.
It is a 5" 6061 Aluminum shaft with a .125 wall thickness. It is rated for over 1,200 HP and 7,300 ft tq. She can get the correct size for other models too (bespoke).
I'm running the following with a Stock Trans/Transfer Case and ride hight.
Make: GMC Model: Sierra 1500 Denali Drive: AWD/4WD Loc: Rear Bed: 5'9" Chassis: 143.5"WB Doors: 4 Door
After some negotiating it ended up being $580 SHIPPED from CA to MA!!!. (She also suggested the upgraded billet slip yoke rated 1200hp it was an extra $100 so I'm actually $680.00 shipped)**
Just a heads up folks. If you want a Driveshaft that can handle high speeds, high HP and TQ this is the place to go. Call Alldriveline (661) 633-2303 and ask for Shelby. Mention my last name Melaas and they'll cut you the same deal.
A 1,200 hp rated shaft with the billet yolk for $680 shipped. I don't get anything for it I just asked if I could refer my friends here for the same deal and she said sure. Very nice Lady.
Lastly it is a 2-3 day processing and shipping for me (ca - ma) is about 3-4 days. I should have it next Thursday! I will send pics.
PM if you have any questions.
After being down nearly 6 months the Denali is almost finished. The shop based out of Hudson, NH “Granite State Dyno and Tune” has been incredible. Super professional with absolutely top notch craftsmanship.
Here is the build.
2014 Sierra Denali 6.2L
Diamond 10:7:1 Pistons.
Precision Race Components ported Cylinder Heads w/ valve job
PAC spring/ Valve Kit.
Comp Cams rocker arms/trunion
Texas Speed & Performance Stage 1 Camshaft +30% fuel lobe
TSP AFM delete kit
Lingenfelter ported 95mm throttle body
Ported L86 intake manifold.
All ARP bolts or studs.
GM ZR1 high volume fuel injectors
GM ZR1 fuel pump
Armageddon 465 LPH in tank fuel pump
Snow Performance Stage 3 Meth Kit with controller and braided lines.
Borg Warner S480 T6 Turbo 1.32 AR billet 110/96mm.
Turbo smart 50mm BOV
Turbo Smart 60mm waste gate
Pro Boost controller
fully wrapped exhaust
Mishimoto fully aluminum Radiator
Mishimoto R-Line Intercooler 31x 12x 4”
Mishimoto HD Trans Cooler
2X Mishimoto Black Aluminum catch cans.
Mishimoto 180 degree thermostat.
Circle D pro 3 torque converter 2700 stall.
I think that sums it up... I will post tuning videos and some driving as they come around.
I've spent the last 30 minutes and I'm fed up with trying to figure this out. This morning I get up to change the window regulator in my truck (I'm no mechanic, just a diy guy). Finally get everything installed and dealing with the pain of popping pins back into clips and I realize the door knob/latch/whatever the f its called popped out and is laying on the ground instead of hanging in the actuator for it. I looked at the end and I assumed it did not snap off because the ends still look machined and uniformed. I tried wiggling it around in the actuator before giving up on getting that "feeling" that its secured. Put the door back on and the door locks of course but the knob moves slightly down (no more than 1 cm) but does not retract into the door. Any ideas? Wanna try to get my bearings straight on figuring it out before I go popping the door panel off again. Also if anyone has a link to the part for the clips on the raceway/trim underneath the power window/power lock control unit that would be great. Lost a couple of them and it doesn't want to sit right inside the door.
So i just got a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado. Im brand new to this forum but need answers. I have a whine particularly noticeable in first gear from a stop that is a constant pitch and gets louder with rpm. I went and had my tranny serviced, the place said the pan looked good no excessive material on the pan or anything. But i just cant seem to shake this noise. It does it every single time. Also my headlights flicker when i apply the brakes. Also a very faint hum is heard in overdrive very faint. You have to listen to it. Notice it between 45-55mph other than that i love the truck but these 3 things are bothering me bad cause it is the first chevy ive owned. Any help? Please.
5.3 L V8 w/afm
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