Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 2/8/2021 at 9:39 AM, 175vTrailbossLT said:

Hey guys. Does anyone have any real world examples of a 1/2ton truck towing another 1/2 Ton truck?

I have a 2019 trail boss LT 5.3L v8. Want to see if I can tow my 2011 silverado extended cab also with 5.3.

I ran some numbers and I am coming up with a technical “yea” I could do it. But I’m planning on a 6 hour drive over the grapevine in CA (big elevation changes). I used an online calculator and had to input a couple variables like - guessed that the trailer would have GVWR of 10,000lb (pj trailer buggy hauler model) and that the trailers “cargo weight” is simply the curb weight of the 2011 truck being towed which I put in as 5500 lbs.

Here is the trailer sticker from my truck.

I’m debating renting a 3/4 ton truck from enterprise instead.

f1b31a39560ef2b0bcdf9eec8c2db9fb.jpg
a1bacdbe4c8fc128c0d1de01eb4ae2b2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I’d say you’re fine

 

Posted

For the guys using WDHs, who is running a Blue Ox? My dealer is throwing one in with the new trailer we bought. From what I’ve read is a good option so figured what the hell. But I’d like to hear some feedback from you all on them

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Picked a new weekend toy today, drove about 100 miles with empty trailer and 100 miles back loaded. Averaged 11.5 MPG for the whole trip. Towed like a dream, first time towing with this truck.

 

8AD2A889-E0F5-492F-BA4D-A3DA8D38CB60.jpeg

Posted
23 minutes ago, eppieguy said:

Sure, why not more.

EBAE2028-65D4-417C-B338-6C0615C84ADC.jpeg

Nice!   How did you like the U-Haul car trailer? I know they are relatively light and have surge brakes so no need for a brake controller. Asking cause I may need to use one in the future.

Posted
16 hours ago, garagerog said:

Nice!   How did you like the U-Haul car trailer? I know they are relatively light and have surge brakes so no need for a brake controller. Asking cause I may need to use one in the future.

Well it actually towed great, it appeared to be an older trailer but it had new tires on it. The surge brakes worked well and seemed to be very light. I had it up to 71 MPH loaded and it did just fine. I’d rent again if needed, and only cost me $60.00 for the day.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

20210228_172531.thumb.jpg.ff449f479c51d3046e9caddd7c2cb194.jpg

 

Still a bit of a work-in-progress... been having a hell of a fun time learning how to weld and this trailer is going to end up with way too many fun little things added to it

  • Like 1
Posted

I listen to a program called car pro. It’s been on awhile. The personality used to own car dealerships. He gets to drive a different vehicle every week. He seems to lean Toyota for hybrid and cars. Ford for trucks for pulling and Ram for comfort. He has dealers nationwide that are on his website that offer hassle free car buying. I belonged for awhile. Among other perks were free carwashes and premium services. His opinion on part time towing is. Under 11K 1/2 ton properly equipped is the way to go. Being seemingly a Toyota guy his pick was a Ford 3.5 with the 373 gear. My only real experience is with gooseneck- fifth wheel I figure I pass this on. In sure any properly equipped 1/2 ton would be the same.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
4 hours ago, KARNUT said:

I listen to a program called car pro. It’s been on awhile. The personality used to own car dealerships. He gets to drive a different vehicle every week. He seems to lean Toyota for hybrid and cars. Ford for trucks for pulling and Ram for comfort. He has dealers nationwide that are on his website that offer hassle free car buying. I belonged for awhile. Among other perks were free carwashes and premium services. His opinion on part time towing is. Under 11K 1/2 ton properly equipped is the way to go. Being seemingly a Toyota guy his pick was a Ford 3.5 with the 373 gear. My only real experience is with gooseneck- fifth wheel I figure I pass this on. In sure any properly equipped 1/2 ton would be the same.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's interesting because I talked to one guy who owned both an F150 and a Tundra. He hated the Toyota with a passion but admitted that it towed better than the Ford.

Posted
That's interesting because I talked to one guy who owned both an F150 and a Tundra. He hated the Toyota with a passion but admitted that it towed better than the Ford.

If I was to buy a new truck right now. It would be a Toyota. A V-8 that’s not a Frankenstein. But I believe the 3.5 has more horsepower and TQ. For towing I’d only go fifth wheel. But that’s just my preference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 1/21/2021 at 8:39 PM, David Withrow said:

Went from Ohio to Tupper lake New York. 2 Atvs and lots of hunting gear. 

IMG_4205.jpg truck 1.jpg

Specs on this trailer, please? Truck specs and fuel mileage with trailer? Thanks

Edited by Jim165
More questions
Posted (edited)

Just picked up my dream camper Towing my xlite Cougar 28rls.  6400 dry lbs and maxes out at 7800. Using my new andersen wdh. Tows like a dream. 

 

20210317_130254.jpg

20210317_130027.jpg

Edited by Edwin Escalet
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Very true.   However.  GM did give those trucks with the single speed case Terrain Mode.  Terrain Mode mimics 4LO minus the gear reduction and torque capability.  It uses the ABS/braking system to perform the operation.  It also gives these one pedal driving (sort of) when in Terrain Mode via the active brake during throttle lift.     Does it have its limitations over a true 2 speed case?  Sure.  But it works.         
    • Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...