Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Which level kit have you guys used on the 2019 RST?  I want something that will get it close to level w/o nosing in the air.  

 

ReadyLift looks to be the best quality, but I'm reading quite a bit here about Rough Country. 

 

My local shop does mostly zone stuff, any feedback on those?

Posted

I’m looking for the same thing. I want to raise the front but also keep a rake so probably put a block in the rear. Just don’t know what size would be good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
37 minutes ago, Thejet07 said:

I’m looking for the same thing. I want to raise the front but also keep a rake so probably put a block in the rear. Just don’t know what size would be good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just dropped off my truck to have rough country's 3 inch suspension lift installed with 35x12.50r20 Ridge Grapplers on stock wheels. I'll post pictures after I pick it up. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Please post a pic of it when you're done.  After making more calls this morning, I'm going with either the zone or readylift.  

 

Is the rough country steel or polymer?

Posted

It is steel. Kit comes with new a-arms and shocks & blocks for the rear. I was going to go with readylift's 4" lift but decided to go with the cheaper 3".

Posted
1 hour ago, Jmike said:

It is steel. Kit comes with new a-arms and shocks & blocks for the rear. I was going to go with readylift's 4" lift but decided to go with the cheaper 3".

Please post pic when you're done. I just ordered the 4" readylift SST but if your setup can fit 35s then I might go your route. The readylift is currently on back order so I have time.

Posted
2 hours ago, Thejet07 said:

Is the rough country one tapered like the readylift?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rough country

20190504_141507_HDR(1).jpg

Posted

Thanks for the pic. To me it looks a little nose high. That’s what I’m afraid of. I wonder what size block in the rear would keep the rake? How hard was install?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I just ordered the FabTech 2" front and the 1" rear block.  May want to take a look at those.  I went with the top mount spacer.

Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, Thejet07 said:

Thanks for the pic. To me it looks a little nose high. That’s what I’m afraid of. I wonder what size block in the rear would keep the rake? How hard was install?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I measured both front and rear top of fenders in my garage which is on level ground and the rear is still higher than the front but you're right the front does look higher. Install was easy if you're using a impact wrench, about 35 min each side. For some reason though, rough country wanted me to disconnect the electronic power steering connectors so that took some time. Anyone know why they have you do that?

Edited by Dmart
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Maize & Blue said:

I just ordered the FabTech 2" front and the 1" rear block.  May want to take a look at those.  I went with the top mount spacer.

Do you know if that's a true 1" rear block?  I just had the Motofab 2/1 kit installed on my truck.  But what I ended up with was a 2/2 lift.  Apparently on the K2 there was a factory 1" block that was removed and replaced with a 2" in the kit for a net 1" gain.  But on the 2019 there is no factory block, so you get the full 2" gain.

 

Motofab is telling me they don't make a 1", trying to find one to bring the back end down an inch.  Right now I still have a 1 1/8" rake on my truck.

 

truck2.thumb.jpeg.205c842556cdfc86bcca1d9f35cddefb.jpeg

Edited by scdaren
  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, scdaren said:

Do you know if that's a true 1" rear block?  I just had the Motofab 2/1 kit installed on my truck.  But what I ended up with was a 2/2 lift.  Apparently on the K2 there was a factory 1" block that was removed and replaced with a 2" in the kit for a net 1" gain.  But on the 2019 there is no factory block, so you get the full 2" gain.

 

Motofab is telling me they don't make a 1", trying to find one to bring the back in down an inch.  Right now I still have a 1 1/8" rake on my truck.

I don’t.  I ordered their block that says it lifts the rear a true 1” but I don’t know if they’re assuming there is a factory rear block that is removed to make that happen.  I saw your pics and I like it so I’ll stick with theirs.  I received the kit but haven’t had it installed yet.  I tow a lot so I don’t mind the rake as much.  I just don’t want too much.

Posted

Another thing to think about if their 1” rear lift block is really lifting the rear by 2” is your shock travel.  You’re going to bottom out your shock and will likely have a rough ride if you don’t replace the shock with a longer travel shock.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...