Jump to content

Which level kit for RST?

jb177
 Share

Recommended Posts

JSW74 Enthusiast

JSW74

Posted
Posted
On 5/9/2019 at 3:02 PM, Jmike said:

Finally got it back. turned out pretty good in my opinion. 35x11.50r20 ridge grapplers have just enough space between ball joint and tire. No rubbing no trimming. They do run a little small so same size trail grapplers might require a little trimming.

IMG-0751.JPG

Hope to see more photos of this soon. recently bought a 2019 crew cab z71 rst and im trying to decide which level to use, but your truck turned out great Jmike

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jmike
Jmike

Finally got it back. turned out pretty good in my opinion. 35x11.50r20 ridge grapplers have just enough space between ball joint and tire. No rubbing no trimming. They do run a little small so same si

Jay Teez
Jay Teez

2019 RST Z71  2 inch Southern Truck Level kit lower strut mounted paid $395 out the door with alignment at local shop which did my last truck. My Closest dealership was using exact

Jay Teez
Jay Teez

updated with 285 60 20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. No rubbing      

Posted Images

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

idk, I have 4x4 RST but do not like idea of cheap level kit or spacer lift...I know economically its easy and cheaper to do but I will wait and do suspension type kit....just seems wrong to do it that way for sole purpose of raising nose to put bigger tire on....my main reason is to do it is better suspension vs lift....I want both but suspension quality/ride is no.1....costs a lot more but will wait til I can afford it vs quick fix

 

any kit will look same tho, cant imagine 1 companies 2 inch or level kit looking different than another....

 

 

Edited by Dunn
  • 2 months later...
Jay Teez Enthusiast

Jay Teez

Posted
Posted

2019 RST Z71 

2 inch Southern Truck Level kit

lower strut mounted

paid $395 out the door with alignment at local shop which did my last truck.

My Closest dealership was using exact same level kit but charging $695 plus tax.

Called another dealership they were using DayStar 2 inch level kit and wanted $500 plus tax. So they all use different level kits and there is no GM level kit. (They do have the 2 inch GM lift kit). Measured this kit on level ground and is actually perfectly level. Ride Quality the same and no noises. Just got it put on today So not sure as far as Gas Mileage yet. Plan on putting either 305 55 20 or 295 60 20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. At some angles it does look slightly Nose High but it actually is not per measurements. Once I put new tires on I’ll see how it looks and if it bothers me I’ll put a 1 inch block in the back since no block is on this truck from factory. (Only on trailboss/AT4) 

E2953730-5758-4E01-96B2-E399FF41BDDC.png

  • Like 3
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

so a lady took out my mirror and was service dept getting pricing on the fix

 

I had to wait so I was cruising around the trucks and they had a new 2020 LT with pro comp 6" lift already installed with 35" tires and some black rims ive seen before around here, pretty much the standard you see everywhere....it had spacer for front OEM struts with new spindles.....if you wanna buy a new truck already to go with a lift they will oblige you

 

total they were charging for lift, wheels.....$9999.00......WOW!

and they are not giving credit for stock wheels...seeing how you can get $1500 for new stock set of OEM wheels, this kit would be under 4k doing it yourself....hard for them to say it voids a warranty when they have one sitting on lot 4 sale

 

 

but really, probably think I am just pissed cuz a lady took out my mirror on my new truck, and it was parked...(me and my workers chased her down on foot she was gonna take off, if not for red light she would have been gone)

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Jay Teez said:

2019 RST Z71 

2 inch Southern Truck Level kit

lower strut mounted

paid $395 out the door with alignment at local shop which did my last truck.

My Closest dealership was using exact same level kit but charging $695 plus tax.

Called another dealership they were using DayStar 2 inch level kit and wanted $500 plus tax. So they all use different level kits and there is no GM level kit. (They do have the 2 inch GM lift kit). Measured this kit on level ground and is actually perfectly level. Ride Quality the same and no noises. Just got it put on today So not sure as far as Gas Mileage yet. Plan on putting either 305 55 20 or 295 60 20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. At some angles it does look slightly Nose High but it actually is not per measurements. Once I put new tires on I’ll see how it looks and if it bothers me I’ll put a 1 inch block in the back since no block is on this truck from factory. (Only on trailboss/AT4) 

E2953730-5758-4E01-96B2-E399FF41BDDC.png

1 1/2 to make it level, I actually don't mind some rake....1/2 to 3/4 in of rake would be perfect.....just has more factory look and there are so many leveled trucks where I live....hard to find em stock it seems somethimes, lol

 

and yes if you drove to service dept with pro comp lift they would say it voids warranty even though they have brand new truck with that same lift parked out front for sale, lol.....and this is 3rd  lift co ive seen at chevy dealer....I just never looked at MSRP sticker til today

 

 

Edited by Dunn
xsquid Enthusiast

xsquid

Posted
Posted (edited)

I went with the Motofab 1.5 inch. 2 inch would have been to much. As far as which brand spacer to use. There all just a piece of billet alum machined and powdered coated. Then there is the bolt quality. I'm a Machinist by trade for over 35 years. I could have made my own if I had the dimensions.  I would of had to order it measure it and return it. Or take my shock off to get dimensions .But that is down time.  Could make one out of titanium if we had the stock.   But as I get older time is more important then 36 dollars.  . I think the ready lift is over selling the 5 degree taper. The mounting tab on the  bottom of the strut is mounted with a rubber bushing which would seem to rotate inside the rubber to a flush mount anyway . The Motofab was alot cheaper . Bolts seam good quality. Rough country seems like a reasonable price also.Only went with the Motofab because I wanted 1.5 inch. As I measued my fenders first.  I still plan on installing my 2009 Silverado rear factory blocks which measure 1.2 inches.For some small rake.  There is no block under my rear springs now. I know because I looked first. Titanium part from solid included, 

IMG_4606.jpg

IMG_3014.JPG

Edited by xsquid
xsquid Enthusiast

xsquid

Posted
Posted

Factory 2009 Silverado 1.25 rear block installed. Motofab 1.5 lower spacer up front. Perfect. 

IMG_4623.jpg

Jay Teez Enthusiast

Jay Teez

Posted
Posted

updated with 285 60 20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. No rubbing :) 
 

 

CB8B6942-F5B4-4577-91A0-6870DCAB3D45.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Duramax3oh Enthusiast

Duramax3oh

Posted
Posted
On 11/17/2019 at 8:22 AM, Tyler Greymountain said:

I used the Readylift level and I'm running 275/65/20 with no problem. I'm definitely looking into adding a block for the rear just so I can have that rake look. 

 

Is it fairly common for people to run 275/65/20 with no problems on a 2” level? 
 

That would be ideal for me. Although I almost want like 1.5” because I do like a slight rake. 

  • 3 months later...
Ben B New Member

Ben B

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 2020 RST, measured the stock front/back difference to be exactly 2", so I bought a ReadyLift 2" kit.  What I ended up with was a 1.5" front lift and noticeable rake.   Kind of annoying since the ReayLift kit was double the price of everything else. Now I am debating going to Motofab and getting a 0.5" top spacer which is supposed to just slip on using same OE hardware.  My other option is to scrap the ReadyLift and buy a 2" or 2.5" kit.  I'm worried none of the kits are really exact.  Oh ya I didn't need an alignment, car is perfect as it was when it was stock, so if shops are charging for alignments with ReadyLift kits I believe they are just taking people's money.  This is a very simple install that took a couple of hours in the driveway, but who wants to go back and re-do it all and pay for another kit?  Im not happy with ReadyLift.

Edited by Ben B
Updated "dealer" to "shop"
  • 7 months later...
c1823a Enthusiast

c1823a

Posted
Posted
On 2/6/2020 at 5:47 PM, xsquid said:

I went with the Motofab 1.5 inch. 2 inch would have been to much. As far as which brand spacer to use. There all just a piece of billet alum machined and powdered coated. Then there is the bolt quality. I'm a Machinist by trade for over 35 years. I could have made my own if I had the dimensions.  I would of had to order it measure it and return it. Or take my shock off to get dimensions .But that is down time.  Could make one out of titanium if we had the stock.   But as I get older time is more important then 36 dollars.  . I think the ready lift is over selling the 5 degree taper. The mounting tab on the  bottom of the strut is mounted with a rubber bushing which would seem to rotate inside the rubber to a flush mount anyway . The Motofab was alot cheaper . Bolts seam good quality. Rough country seems like a reasonable price also.Only went with the Motofab because I wanted 1.5 inch. As I measued my fenders first.  I still plan on installing my 2009 Silverado rear factory blocks which measure 1.2 inches.For some small rake.  There is no block under my rear springs now. I know because I looked first. Titanium part from solid included, 

IMG_4606.jpg

 

Xsquid, any install advice for the MotoFab 1.5" Lower spacer on a 2020 RST 4WD?  I installed 1.5" lower spacers on a 2010, 2 wheel drive many years ago and did not do all the steps MotoFab shows for the same type kit but for my 2020 RST.

xsquid Enthusiast

xsquid

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes don't install them the bolts come to close to the axle boots. Hit at full droop and turning. I removed them two weeks after and use Rough Country 2 inch 

leveling strut. Ride is way better the stock. You will  love  them. Have Beilstein in the rear. Will eventually put them in front. They weren't out yet when I did it. Settled at about 1 5/8 of lift. Perfect. Don't install them . Don't take the chance.  P.S Moto Fab  Fine for 2 wheel drive 

Edited by xsquid
c1823a Enthusiast

c1823a

Posted
Posted
42 minutes ago, xsquid said:

Yes don't install them the bolts come to close to the axle boots. Hit at full droop and turning. I removed them two weeks after and use Rough Country 2 inch 

leveling strut. Ride is way better the stock. You will  love  them. Have Beilstein in the rear. Will eventually put them in front. They weren't out yet when I did it. Settled at about 1 5/8 of lift. Perfect. Don't install them . Don't take the chance.  P.S Moto Fab  Fine for 2 wheel drive 

Ah, Ok.  Thanks for the update. Was planning to install this weekend but, glad I got in touch with you first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 654 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...