Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone else notice that their cab/ bed are out of alignment? I've had my AT4 for about a week now, and when I first noticed this in my mirror I thought I was losing it..

 

On the driver's side of my truck the cab sticks out at least a good 1/4" past the bed side, and the body line doesn't line up. The passenger side is flush and laser straight.

 

I tried taking a couple photos, but it's quite difficult to capture with reflections. Am I the only one? Is this worth making a big deal about? 8388124f16a738bde132f507db61a96f.jpg525e664f18fe77c9bf7387c9ae98bd3e.jpgf5ce965db587455c5997ca318b630cb2.jpg

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Take it to the dealer. They can loosen the bolts and adjust the alignment. Pretty simple fix and very common issue across every single brand of trucks.

  • Like 1
Posted

Most of the time they are all a bit off, but that's real bad. There was another post on here about it but people were claiming no bed adjustments on the new trucks. 

Posted

A lot of F-150 owners had the same problem, it's an easy fix. Seems to happen with all pick-up trucks.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Yes, I just bought the Trail Boss and mine is off on drivers side only, about 3/8". Took it back to dealer to express my concerns and the service manager contacted the GM rep and said this is the first he had heard of it. (figures), Service manger said new trucks have alignment pins and moving the bed/ cab was not possible. I hate paying that kind of money for a crooked truck.

Let me know if anyone knows of a fix.

 

Thanks

  • Thanks 1
Posted

All the other pickups since 07 had an alignment pin as well. There’s still room for adjustment. If your dealer has a body shop, bring it over there and they’ll adjust it. Mechanics don’t like doing body adjustments.

Posted

Its in the shop today for Tonneau cover recall and bed alignment. 

Posted

People kept telling me I was crazy! My 2018 sticks out about a 1/4 inch on the drivers side. Still under warranty so I’ll be getting it fixed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

So dealership said its definitely misaligned and I made an appointment with their body shop for Thursday to get this fixed. They said they would get it done.

 

Today I had all 4 tires rebalanced as they were way off from the factory. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Had mine in the shop on Friday, mechanic moved bed over to the drivers side, but its still about a 1/4" off. Mechanic said all the adjustment was gone unless bed is removed and drill out holes. 

Posted

Mine is off 1/4” in the drivers side and flush on the other. I checked the tire pressure and parked it in my level garage. Took a 4’ level to use as a straight edge and checked both sides. The cab on the drivers side sits 1/4” outside the bed. The passenger side is flush. 

 

I had a long talk with a GM Body shop manager about fit and finish in cars versus trucks. He also recommended I walk the lot and look at alignment in beds, doors, hoods, etc.

 

I believe I will leave it alone. With a square bed and square cab there has to be a reaction to every adjusted made. I am not sure that I want a bunch of shop hands leaning and pushing on my truck to gain an 1/8” in alignment. After looking at about 10 trucks today I came to the conclusion that the bed must be slightly narrower than the cab - maybe 1/4” to 3/8”.

 

As long as my dogs, chickens and deer don’t know it I think I can worry about something else. 

 

Call me crazy or lazy but I don’t think I want to deal with sales, service or body shop and be without my truck over such a minor issue.

  • Like 2
Posted

2019 Sierra AT4. My body line is 1/2” off. And 1/2 sunk in width wise. So far I have gotten no where with the dealership. They first told me this was not a warranty issue and I was going to have to live with it. If anyone gets any traction. Please let me know. I am extremely disappointed. Thanks 

1327217F-7B25-4F40-90B3-0EB68CA659C9.jpeg

96DBFE0F-5DD3-4724-9526-20B82AB43713.jpeg

F3692B70-DE09-433A-B619-D5841B0DF498.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • I’m going off the instructions.
    • My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...