Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 7/19/2020 at 1:20 PM, N2HighVoltage said:

2020 GMC SIERRA 1500 4X4 CREW CAB 3.0 Duramax

Front: FOX 2.5 Coilovers front (3.5” of lift)

Rear: Deaver mini pack w/FOX 2.0 (1.5’-2” lift)

Wheels: American Racing AX202 18x9 0mm/5.0” backSpacing

Tires: BFG K02 35x12.50x18
Trimming required...good instructions adjust based on your needs...no rubbing now.  
186318

 


 

 

2A5C52CC-2436-4D1F-970E-6FCA9A6D3454.jpeg

DEED15E0-077D-4545-BCBD-C21ADCD2D0EA.jpeg

A7C4043D-1A12-489D-A996-362AAD912D83.jpeg

81CBA790-B00C-4BAA-89D4-747C875CE911.jpeg

This looks killer! I just bought a AT4 with Duramax and love it. I’m looking to do similar set up. I bought 295/70/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers, and have on order Icon stage 2 coilovers. Was gonna run in stock 18’s till I can pony up for some wheels. How do u like the fox 2.5?

Posted
On 9/5/2020 at 4:11 PM, Sierra50BMG said:

 35x12.50/17 BFG KO2 on a 17x8.5 DX4 Terrain 4.51 backspace -6 offset 

Icon 2.5 Extended Travel front coil overs at 2.25” lift 2.25” block in the rear with fabtech stealth shocks

Icons tubular UCA with delta join

Mudflap bracket removal 

Front fender liner plastic removed and zip tied away from the tire.

Lots of trimming on the mudflap and cut the bottom screw hole off the metal part of the fender. Bolted the mud flap back through the furthest hole for the bracket and gave me quite a bit of room with stock look.

Rides awesome and looks awesome!

5A3675F7-E293-4FDA-8145-D1C7473AC2B1.jpeg

80BD8EC9-F644-4BB6-84FB-D6E76C4629E4.jpeg

B69E8ECA-FA99-4138-875F-0129DAFD883C.jpeg

FBF548A4-0B43-4803-B5C3-D97C37AC9148.jpeg

Could you have run those Icons up to 3”? Just curious, looks awesome though. Do u have any more pics, side profile? I bet rides like butter 

Posted
On 7/18/2020 at 3:54 PM, BetaX said:

2" SST

285/75/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

Zero rubbing anywhere surprisingly.

Very little clearance on the upper control arm but it clears. Don't think you could go any wider without different wheels or addition of wheel spacers. 

IMG_3562.thumb.JPG.6d6b74da8ca0e67795a7b1a6c4b463b1.JPG

This looks awesome! Do u have any additional photos maybe from front, rear? 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/26/2020 at 7:35 PM, Asmith721 said:

These are killer. I want these for my 16 Sierra.

When u say dipped, plasti dipped??

Posted
2” rough country level
33x12.50r20 Venom Power XT
20x10 -24 American Offroad wheels

Came out perfect!

More pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/5C977eO

691dd5704909db44f823c8985ab1d555.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice. Trail boss? Or started at normal height? Need to trim a lot?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Very nice. Trail boss? Or started at normal height? Need to trim a lot?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s an LTZ, just completely debadged. I’m running 2” Rough Country and stock in the rear (no blocks). It’s perfectly level: 3’ 4” from the ground on all four wheel Wells.

Started at stock height on the stock 4x4 suspension.

I did have to do minor trimming because it was scrubbing at full lock, but nothing too crazy. Now I can go full lock forward and reverse with no scrub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

It’s an LTZ, just completely debadged. I’m running 2” Rough Country and stock in the rear (no blocks). It’s perfectly level: 3’ 4” from the ground on all four wheel Wells.

Started at stock height on the stock 4x4 suspension.

I did have to do minor trimming because it was scrubbing at full lock, but nothing too crazy. Now I can go full lock forward and reverse with no scrub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really like the look. Would love to do something similar, I probably don’t need as aggressive a stance, but some poke would be nice. Any trimming whatsoever makes me pretty nervous. I leveled a 20 Sierra with Rough Country, I think I’m at 3’2” or 3’3” but I’ll have to recheck.
Thanks for the info!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Really like the look. Would love to do something similar, I probably don’t need as aggressive a stance, but some poke would be nice. Any trimming whatsoever makes me pretty nervous. I leveled a 20 Sierra with Rough Country, I think I’m at 3’2” or 3’3” but I’ll have to recheck.
Thanks for the info!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Np! And the stance is because I am running 20x10 with -24 offset. It’s fairly aggressive but not too aggressive as say 12 wides on -44 like some people are running which require major trimming. The trimming was more on the mud flap and liner.

Before the level I was 3’ 1” from the ground in so I gained essentially 3” all around. The tires are true 33s as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)

AT4 with Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit and 35" Toyo Tires

I wanted to share the fitment of a Rough Country 2" AT4 specific leveling kit and 35" tires on 18" OEM wheels with the forum.  After installing the AT4 specific RC leveling kit I was able to fit 285/75/18 Toyo Open Country A/T III tires without any rubbing.  The tires are advertised as being 34.8" tall and 11.3" wide.  I don't have any rubbing at full lock but it's pretty close.  I think if I was at max articulation and full to nearly full lock in an off road setting I'd rub the fender liner a bit.  Not enough to do anything about it but it would just rub.  In over 1,000 miles of daily driving I've not rubbed a single time.

 

Noteworthy comment/observations:

 

1.  If I went with a 35" x 12.5" I would have significant rubbing with the fender liner.  A true 12.5" wide 35" would not have adequate clearance.  This is one of the reasons I went with the "narrow" 11.3" wide Toyo's.

 

2.  Make sure you get an alignment after installing a leveling kit.  My truck was significantly toed-out, outside the acceptable range with the leveling kit and resulted in a "darty" ride with a "floaty" feel.  After getting an alignment and some toe-in the truck drives much better.

Image 1.jpg

Edited by rikhek
  • Like 2
Posted
On 9/16/2020 at 8:44 AM, rikhek said:

AT4 with Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit and 35" Toyo Tires

I wanted to share the fitment of a Rough Country 2" AT4 specific leveling kit and 35" tires on 18" OEM wheels with the forum.  After installing the AT4 specific RC leveling kit I was able to fit 285/75/18 Toyo Open Country A/T III tires without any rubbing.  The tires are advertised as being 34.8" tall and 11.3" wide.  I don't have any rubbing at full lock but it's pretty close.  I think if I was at max articulation and full to nearly full lock in an off road setting I'd rub the fender liner a bit.  Not enough to do anything about it but it would just rub.  In over 1,000 miles of daily driving I've not rubbed a single time.

 

Noteworthy comment/observations:

 

1.  If I went with a 35" x 12.5" I would have significant rubbing with the fender liner.  A true 12.5" wide 35" would not have adequate clearance.  This is one of the reasons I went with the "narrow" 11.3" wide Toyo's.

 

2.  Make sure you get an alignment after installing a leveling kit.  My truck was significantly toed-out, outside the acceptable range with the leveling kit and resulted in a "darty" ride with a "floaty" feel.  After getting an alignment and some toe-in the truck drives much better.

Image 1.jpg

Awesome! Thanks for info. Do u think a 295/70/18 would fit? Little wider, not so tall?

Posted (edited)

2020 Silverado 1500 Z71 standard bed, simple 1.5" motofab lower strut spacers, and Toyo Open Country M/T 275/70r18 (33.2x10.8) on 18" method NV -11 offset, no rubbing issues, almost level (only 1/8 lower in front [measuring ground to fender well]). 

 

Note, if you buy any of Motofab's lower strut spacer level kits, and have a 2019+ aluminum lower control arm, the supplied bolts are too short. Motofab said they are working on it and offered me longer bolts, but I was in a hurry, turned them down, they offered me a t-shirt, turned them down lol, just bought some bolts at home depot. You'll need 3.5" bolts for the 1.5" level kit (technically, 3.5" long, 3/8" dia., grade 8 or better, sz 16 nut). Only the toe angle was out of alignment afterwards, which I had aligned. Would've got wider tires + less knobby, but got wheels + tires for a huge bargain from some rich dude who only used them for 1500 miles. Anyhow, dig it! Cybertruck who? Any higher it'll be hard to put dirt bikes in the back!

Photo Sep 16, 3 37 49 PM.jpg

Photo Sep 17, 9 48 37 AM.jpg

Edited by GravelPitsYew
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...