Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 minutes ago, Opiedeegs said:


Did you remove your entire tailgate for the installation
I have a GMC multi pro the wiring harness to unplug is not the simplest


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No, I had just enough room to squeeze my fingers between the bumper and tailgate to install the light bar.

  • Like 1
Posted
No, I had just enough room to squeeze my fingers between the bumper and tailgate to install the light bar.

My fingers are too short and fat


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted

I had quite a bit of difficulty trying to remove the multi pro tailgate
Could not get the passenger side hinge to release
I got the blade installed anyways would’ve been much easier without the tailgate
The wiring harness is nice so you don’t have to scotch lock any of the tail light wires


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

Edited by Nola Sciko
Posted
3 hours ago, Nola Sciko said:

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

All other adapters will throw errors on your dash and think

you have a trailer connect when the truck is in motion. Below is the only adapter you can use with no trailer errors and backup sensors work. Trust... learn from my mistake

https://www.putco.com/529005

 

 

 

 

 

C62CB48F-1DD5-4698-A791-E41C91FF8302.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
46 minutes ago, Jacob007 said:

All other adapters will throw errors on your dash and think

you have a trailer connect when the truck is in motion. Below is the only adapter you can use with no trailer errors and backup sensors work. Trust... learn from my mistake

https://www.putco.com/529005

 

 

 

 

 

C62CB48F-1DD5-4698-A791-E41C91FF8302.jpeg

Will that adapter work with the Opt?

Posted
6 hours ago, Nola Sciko said:

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

I think you need this module for the Opt7 lights.

 

http://www.opt-7.com/tow-package-module-for-redline-led-tailgate-bars/?sku=820-02427&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInZOOurTt4wIVCZ6fCh1iJAafEAQYASABEgKd9vD_BwE

 

 

Posted
All other adapters will throw errors on your dash and think
you have a trailer connect when the truck is in motion. Below is the only adapter you can use with no trailer errors and backup sensors work. Trust... learn from my mistake
https://www.putco.com/529005
 
 
   
 
C62CB48F-1DD5-4698-A791-E41C91FF8302.thumb.jpeg.6d8368221d7ea77891b48d426226197e.jpeg

Second that Putco is clean and simple
No wire taps


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted
On 8/5/2019 at 5:49 PM, Nola Sciko said:

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

I sent in a question to the Tech Support guys at Opt7. Here is their response:

 

Thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately, we were not able to receive a screenshot from your previous message.
The module is a universal application, it will work with most vehicles.

The Triple Tailgate has 3 possible installation methods: Plug & Play; No module. Plug & Play with module and hard-wired.

Triple Tailgate Only (Plug & Play): Vehicles that do not have any of the following equipped:
-Rear Camera
-Back-up/Parking Sensor
-Trailer Assist Feature (HUD display that provides trailer connection status notifications)
-BLIS (Blind Spot Notification Signal)

Triple Tailgate + Module (PWM Adapter) (Plug & Play): Vehicles equipped with any of the following:
-Rear Camera
-Back-up/Parking Sensor
-Trailer Assist Feature (HUD display that provides trailer connection status notifications)

Triple Tailgate (Hard-wired)
-BLIS (Blind Spot Notification Signal)
-Some tailgates will only function hard-wired on certain vehicles.

* Vehicles with a BLIS or Blind Spot Sensor Systems must use the hard-wire extension kit included with the kit. 
The kit will technically not be Plug & Play in this case.

**Vehicles that do not have a BLIS or Blind Spot Sensor System but do have a rear camera, rear parking sensor or a Trailer Assist System that provides heads up display status updates will require the addition of the OPT7 Optional Accessories Signal Module.

Best Regards,
Salvador G. 
OPT7 Customer Experience Team

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I purchased this with the add on module for my 2019 GMC Sierra Denali 1500.  I tried the curt adapter and I tried hardwiring as Opt 7 shows in a youtube video.  Both of these installs disabled my sensors and cross traffic alert thinking I was towing something.  Does anyone have a good remedy to solve this.  I contacted Opt7 and they said just send the product back for a full refund but I really like the look of the lights but losing all safety features is a real bummer.  Anyone have success with this?  Or suggestions. 

Posted
On 8/6/2019 at 8:31 PM, Opiedeegs said:

How do you install it with this harness?
Second that Putco is clean and simple
No wire taps


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Posted

I have a max trailer package on mine.  It has no 4 pin jack at all.  The absurdity of that aside, would the putco one still work in my case?

Posted
On 8/4/2019 at 7:42 AM, Opiedeegs said:

I had quite a bit of difficulty trying to remove the multi pro tailgate
Could not get the passenger side hinge to release
I got the blade installed anyways would’ve been much easier without the tailgate
The wiring harness is nice so you don’t have to scotch lock any of the tail light wires


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I can get my passenger side off easily at 45 degree angle.  Can’t get the drivers side to release in any position.  How do you get the drivers side off?  Please help!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...