Price I should offer - paying in FULL

aseibel · July 25, 2019

30 minutes ago, lord.kinbote said:

So if paying in full does not help the price, what would you guys offer with an asking of 49k?

Offer them 15% below MSRP on the sticker. That's about the best you'll get.

They know exactly what they are going to make. And don't think they won't let you walk out the door. Your best bet is to get quotes from a few dealers around you. If you can find one for slightly less they should match it.

If you don't buy the truck, somebody else will. Haggling over price is a thing of the past.

JimCost2014 · July 25, 2019

22 minutes ago, lord.kinbote said:

The dealer specifically stated that with a GM loan, you would have to make 6 payments before paying off. They could be wrong, so something that needs confirming. As stated, there are no incentives for a Trail Boss LT.

I was thinking of offering 46.5 vs the 49k they have listed on their website. Hell even the website has a button that says "make an offer". Not sure if they will go for that, but with 2020's coming out in a few months, seems like a fair offer.

You can offer $46.00 for it, only way to find out is too show them you are a serious buyer and make an offer.

They will accept, or bid you good day. If they know your credit score, they will work hard to finance you because you are a guaranteed loan in their eyes.

lord.kinbote · July 25, 2019

3 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

You can offer $46.00 for it, only way to find out is too show them you are a serious buyer and make an offer.

They will accept, or bid you good day. If they know your credit score, they will work hard to finance you because you are a guaranteed loan in their eyes.

Dumb question, when you guys say offer 46 or whatever, does that include TTL?

stevejones · July 25, 2019

Apples to oranges but still fruit; my 2019 K2 MSRP'd at $46K...OTD @ $31.7K...no trade, no money down...TTL all in.

JimCost2014 · July 25, 2019

8 minutes ago, lord.kinbote said:

Dumb question, when you guys say offer 46 or whatever, does that include TTL?

No, because that total would include those "fun" things, meaning the actual sell price would be roughly $5000.00 lower than the $46000.00.

How much communication have you actually had with the dealer at this point?

HondaHawkGT · July 25, 2019

46 minutes ago, lord.kinbote said:

The dealer specifically stated that with a GM loan, you would have to make 6 payments before paying off. They could be wrong, so something that needs confirming. As stated, there are no incentives for a Trail Boss LT.

I was thinking of offering 46.5 vs the 49k they have listed on their website. Hell even the website has a button that says "make an offer". Not sure if they will go for that, but with 2020's coming out in a few months, seems like a fair offer.

The dealer can claim anything they want, but it's not true. You can refinance or pay off the loan at any time.

JimCost2014 · July 25, 2019

1 minute ago, HondaHawkGT said:

The dealer can claim anything they want, but it's not true. You can refinance or pay off the loan at any time.

Believe you are correct, I think you just have to have the loan active for 30 or so days to be able to keep the incentives.

lord.kinbote · July 25, 2019

7 minutes ago, JimCost2014 said:

No, because that total would include those "fun" things, meaning the actual sell price would be roughly $5000.00 lower than the $46000.00.

How much communication have you actually had with the dealer at this point?

Just a test drive. Did not get into pricing. I told then I was still trying to decide if I was going to wait for the 6.2L to arrive for the TB in the 2020 model.

Thomcat · July 25, 2019

36 minutes ago, lord.kinbote said:

So if paying in full does not help the price, what would you guys offer with an asking of 49k?

This is a trick question ........right??????

Every financial expert worth 2 cents recommends using cash on a depreciating value purchase if you've got it, over financing it. Can boost your credit rating after you pay it off.... but it's also a liability as long as you owe on it.

I always buy cash and get better deals. Right now, go to the Chevy website, for cash deals offering 20% off MSRP for a double cab $10K off and 15% for a crew cab $7.5K off before you even start to break ba!!s. I walked out with a $55.6K RST for $42K even cash, out the door, including the tax differential. ...dealer had to boost the trade $2K over max value to clear their next level review.

Here's my main reason for cash....only my wife and my name on the registration. It's mine, not the finance company's car. I can dump instantly any time in any condition without approval of a co-signer or requirement to make any repairs in accordance with their approval. Any accident damage and the insurance company writes the check to me instantly, not some second party check payable to me and a collision shop.

Came in handy twice, a smashed up Cirrus and Trailblazer. Drag to the nearest dealer with a collision shop and have my insurance adjuster assess damage and cut me a check. Since I own the car outright I have them write me a check and repairs then become my responsibility, or I may choose not to repair it at all and keep the check! My only responsibility to the insurance company is that I cannot file another claim for the damaged items until I can first prove that it was properly repaired......and insurance must pay the claim and they cannot force me to repair it unless I choose to do so. Both instances I have the insurance check within 24 hours, walk into the new car showroom and make a deal on a new one asking my trade in excellent condition which it will be if they fix it properly. Sign over the check, pay the balance, and it's taillights down the road in a new car within 48 hours and no headaches over waiting repairs and driving a puttied up wreck. Can't do that with a financed car.

KARNUT · July 25, 2019

I never pay cash for a vehicle. I make more money in investment interests than pay using someone else’s money to buy a car.

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RUSSH · July 25, 2019

29 minutes ago, lord.kinbote said:

Just a test drive. Did not get into pricing. I told then I was still trying to decide if I was going to wait for the 6.2L to arrive for the TB in the 2020 model.

Definitely wait! It will be worth it.

If you don't, you'll wish you had.

Grumpy Bear · July 25, 2019

I'm a cash buyer. I rarely by the truck/car/bike/house. I buy the deal. That takes away any and all leverage they may think they have on me. I do not declare my trade nor my finance preference until we have a price on what I came to buy. I don't dicker for a loaf of bread and I won't on a car. It's 'worth' to me has nothing to do with it's 'value' to them. I find that car 'nobody' want's and become the nobody that want's it.

I bought a NEW one year old Ford in 77 for 50 cents on the dollar because we had a gas issue then and it had a 351W 'nobody' wanted. Turned out that it got better mileage than the 250 I6 EVERYONE wanted. Ditto Pepper. Nobody wanted a 6 in a RCSB. Rinse and repeat.

MacLaren · July 25, 2019

On June 29th this year, we thought we were going to have to finance thru GMAC, to get the rebates.

But, turned out and we got to keep the rebates.

If we had to finance thru GMAC, then it would only had been for 6 months, as mentioned earlier in this thread I believe.

jpinoy · July 25, 2019

I did the same, tried to pay in cash, but they didn't care either.. [emoji28].

I only finance $10K of the amount to get the extra $2K savings when I bought mine and they said make at least 3 payments. I did 2(I think, been awhile [emoji28]), and paid it off since they were really good with the discounts I got.

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Bikeman · July 25, 2019

Its getting close to the end of the month, they get more pliable the closer it gets. Go in on the last day of the month and offer $39k, and see what happens. On the plus side since your buying cash they can close that deal that day with minimal paperwork. Also, generally August is a big incentive month on 19's as the 2020's are coming in. So go low and if they decline, rinse and repeat in August. Goodluck