Whipple vs. Procharger & Other Poll

[Nitrousbird]

6 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

this is from users who did track testing on YT videos with pedal commander, i dont have access to a track so cant say . but I really like the SB V3.0 .  once you learn how to use it in stop and go traffic, and then out on the highway you actually appreciate the factory dead throttle response when entering V4 mode,  the factory throttle is great for fuel economy. 

then the sport mode and race mode is so linear  and even slightly exponetial on the throttle curve. its fun in traffic and when on mountain roads, but you really notice the MPG drop like crazy 

All it does is fool the ECU to change how much the throttle opens when press the pedal.  0.0 extra HP.  Your right foot can do the exact same thing - press harder on the pedal.  Any good tuning software (like HP Tuners) can change the mapping, which is the correct way to do it.

 

I have a piggy back tuner (plus backend flash in my car - the right way to it on that platform) and can change the throttle mapping via my steering wheel controls.  Been there, done that, it just makes the throttle more twitchy and does nothing for performance.

[flyingfool]

i  would recommend the product to someone who is leasing and not hardcore tuner. , every parameter can be adjusted in the ecu,  yes, there is no power gain, but the power curve feels very different and comes in much quicker . it feels better and where it should be.. 

 

to each his own. 

 

even if you have a high powered truck, you might want to be able to switch on the fly the throttle response, from stock , sport and race mode. the fuel savings using the oem dead throttle programming is nice.  and it's not easy to access the ecu  to adjust throttle settings while driving. I cant flipp between throttle programs withing a half second. try doing this on your HP tuners.  just a thought .  

[Nitrousbird]

1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

i  would recommend the product to someone who is leasing and not hardcore tuner. , every parameter can be adjusted in the ecu,  yes, there is no power gain, but the power curve feels very different and comes in much quicker . it feels better and where it should be.. 

 

to each his own. 

 

even if you have a high powered truck, you might want to be able to switch on the fly the throttle response, from stock , sport and race mode. the fuel savings using the oem dead throttle programming is nice.  and it's not easy to access the ecu  to adjust throttle settings while driving. I cant flipp between throttle programs withing a half second. try doing this on your HP tuners.  just a thought .  

This whole thread is about adding power via forced induction to a truck and you are talking about pedal commanders.  Why?  

[L86 All Terrain]

Whipple, you want low and midrange for a truck unless it is a full on sport truck. Prochargers make next to nothing until 3,000+ rpm compared to a whipple. The right turbo would be a great choice too, but there is a ton of knowledge required to spec and build a system unless you find a kit that sounds right for your application.  

[L86 All Terrain]

On 10/26/2019 at 9:40 AM, flyingfool said:

this is from users who did track testing on YT videos with pedal commander, the stock throttle really cuts into the power output, along with disabling Traction control and stabilatrack, these also cut your throttle so, it is possible to loose a full second in the quarter  just to the power robbin governing effect of all these features that come on the truck. i dont have access to a track so cant say . but I really like the "SB V3.0" .  once you learn how to use it in stop and go traffic, and then out on the highway you actually appreciate the factory dead throttle response when entering V4 mode,  the factory throttle is great for fuel economy. 

then the sport mode and race mode is so linear  and even slightly exponetial on the throttle curve. its fun in traffic and when on mountain roads, but you really notice the MPG drop like crazy when using a SPrint booster. this is the best thing to buy if you dont want to void your warrantee with a flash tune. 

Another way to shave 0.5sec off your 6.2L 1/4m time is to disable the speed limiter with a cheap tuner. My truck hits the 98mph limiter around 1000-1100'. So totally, you can shave a second with a tuner and maybe some light 17" wheels/tires. 

[1SLOW1500]

Whipple, you want low and midrange for a truck unless it is a full on sport truck. Prochargers make next to nothing until 3,000+ rpm compared to a whipple. The right turbo would be a great choice too, but there is a ton of knowledge required to spec and build a system unless you find a kit that sounds right for your application.  

You are right about superchargers but there are easy ways around that now also. You spec the head unit as you would a turbo smaller or just change pulley and bypass or port the pressure tube. You can also tune the bov and run a controller. Issue is power and trans. As the torque management freaks out when power comes in and a shift is required.

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[truckguy82]

You will not have any issues towing with any kind of supercharger if you size it correctly.

 

as far as turbo’s, there are a few million turbo diesels out there that think turbo’s are just fine for towing. Really all you need to do is get the sizing right.

 

I had a gt28rs spooling at 2500rpm in a 125hp (stock) 1.6 litre honda. That turbo is capable of safely flowing enough for 350whp.

 

So two of those should spool in a 355hp 5.3 litre at like 1800rpm tops and be good for 700whp.

[1SLOW1500]

I had two gt35r(rarest Garrett turbos made)water,oil,BB turbos on a ls1 and later ls6 engine spool was 2500rpm so they came to life fast.
Rpm is tricky. Stall speed and power play a huge factor then gearing and final revolutions vs engine or trans speed. You may fine your "roll out" is to fast.
At super low speed in my subdivision the 1-2 shift will let you see a easy 40-50mph. So what is more important is the dyno power graph. Number one thing that I always hate to hear is how high can you set my rpm limit. You will see the supercharge drop out the turbo if sized right just climbs. Does this help you in stop and go traffic, NO. Does it help on expressway and on ramp oh yes.
Both are good. Just need to size it right. These engine can really flow so the turbine housing needs to be a little larger.
I had a borge s369 with the largest sizes and it spooled fast on l83 but spiked quick and was flatter over 4000rpm so now I have the BMF 76/75 billet. And it is perfect but wants more. I believe it would be happier at 800hp.

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[L86 All Terrain]

19 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

You are right about superchargers but there are easy ways around that now also. You spec the head unit as you would a turbo smaller or just change pulley and bypass or port the pressure tube. You can also tune the bov and run a controller. Issue is power and trans. As the torque management freaks out when power comes in and a shift is required.

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Interesting. You would think that most of these canned tuners that come with these supercharger kits would address and remove torque management. All the more reason to build off a GMT900 than a K2. Every model that comes out they make them harder to mess with. Took what, a year + to crack the ZR1's E99 ECM? Pretty annoying to have to trade ECM's for unlocked units. Just let us in there if we want in, you're not covering warranty if we get in there and blow it up anyway so what's the deal? 

[1SLOW1500]

Correct. The issue is 6l80 you can tune and is very important to do so. But the 8speed you have to send the tcm off to be unlocked. Then pay even more to tune it. Again very important to do this.
Can tunes are no good in my option. Maybe on very low boost it will "work" but no vehicle is exactly like the other. More so with the adaptive trans tables shift to make up for the increased power.
Even many on this forum will tell you of tunes and trans issues. Sometimes the biggest name shops and supercharger companies can't get it right. 2 trucks come to mind. [emoji2958]

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[CamGTP]

TM can't be removed when the computer uses torque for everything. Torque based computers have to have TM otherwise you couldn't even drive it.

 

Even the GMT-900 still needs TM enabled on transmission side because it needs that to make it function. The engine side can be basically shut off.

 

If you want a platform where TM is basically not there at all, that would be the GMT-800's or more easily said the P01/P59 computers. People run none of that with manual cars and 4L80e transmissions.

 

If anyone wants to read up on how torque based controllers work, read this and stare into the distance.

 

http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_editor_tuning_how_to_advanced_e78.htm

[KARNUT]

Back in 2002 when we did a 6 gun banks kit it was recommended to tune the transmission on his dodge. We knew a good transmission guy. The torque converter was changed and the transmission was tuned. It lasted the ten years he kept the truck. Even my old 92 transmission was tuned to the engine. Even caned tunes allowed tuning transmissions. I like to feel them shifting.

 

 

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[Denali34]

My Whipple is awesome. It took a very reputable shop a couple of tries to get it right with the TCM tune after I changed out my Converter. Now that the kinks are worked out I don't want anything else. I DD mine 100 miles every day and tow my Winnebago every other weekend and the truck doesn't even know its back there. You cant go wrong with any of them.  I love smoking my 35's every chance I get.. especially roll ons at 40mph. 

[AEmedic]

I recommend a Callaway Kit, there is no better way to add forced induction while retaining the full factory warranty.

 

 https://www.callawaycars.com/

[truckguy82]

On 12/9/2019 at 7:39 PM, AEmedic said:

I recommend a Callaway Kit, there is no better way to add forced induction while retaining the full factory warranty.

 

 https://www.callawaycars.com/

That is bad advice is so many ways

 

a)you do not retain your factory warranty, you retain a callaway warranty on the powertrain, you keep the oem bumper to bumper but the oem powertrain warranty is null and void

b)callaway is by a huge margin not the best way to add forced induction. It is incredibly expensive for what it is. For the price of a callaway kit, you could easily buy an entire spare drivetrain incase you blow yours up, and then pay the labor to reinstall it, and then treat yourself and your loved ones to a vacation in europe. Or you could simply build your entire drivetrain and have a reliable 1000hp truck for the price of their sc560 kit.

 

Callaway is the easiest way, not the best way