Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I finally have everything I need to change the fluid in the transmission. I will be using Amsoil so I'd like to get as much of the old fluid out as possible. I'm crystal clear on the filter and pan. What I'm unclear about is how to remove the fluid from the torque converter (TC).

I bought 12 quarts of Amsoil, and I don't think I have enough to flush like the guy did in this video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbP2kmInwVM

 

If I was to change the fluid in the transmission, pump out the coolant lines, but not the TC, would there be an issue mixing the GM fluid and Amsoil? 

 

What would be the best way to remove the fluid from the TC that wouldn't result in damaging the transmission? 

 

 

Posted (edited)

If you use the cooler line that will drain all fluid including the TC, its all in one loop.    !2 qts is tight.  The GM dealer used 16 to R & R all the fluid in my 2017 8-sp.  IMO its not a diy job on the 8sp, to many nuances to pay attention to,

Edited by elcamino
Posted
7 hours ago, UrbanRage said:

I finally have everything I need to change the fluid in the transmission. I will be using Amsoil so I'd like to get as much of the old fluid out as possible. I'm crystal clear on the filter and pan. What I'm unclear about is how to remove the fluid from the torque converter (TC).

I bought 12 quarts of Amsoil, and I don't think I have enough to flush like the guy did in this video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbP2kmInwVM

 

If I was to change the fluid in the transmission, pump out the coolant lines, but not the TC, would there be an issue mixing the GM fluid and Amsoil? 

 

What would be the best way to remove the fluid from the TC that wouldn't result in damaging the transmission? 

 

 

It is doable like in the video.  The thermostat on the transmission should be bypassed if you ask me.  That way it  can flow through the cooler while it is running and not have to wait for it to get up to temp. 

 

Like on my 2002 that had the 4l60E, it didn't have a thermostat on the cooler line so when ever you disconnected the line from the cooler, the fluid would flow as soon as you started the truck.  Then you just let it flow out until the stream of fluid starts to slow down, then shut off the truck.  I like to have another person turn off the truck once I notice the fluid slowing down and  pushing air.  Then just add back fluid.  Thing is I had a dipstick and it was easy to do.  On the 8sp they don't and so it will be harder to add fluid.

 

You will need at least 16qts if not more.  When the dealership does it they want 20qts.  At least the dealership I talked to.  They put it all in the exchange machine and when the 20qts side is empty then it has a complete exchange of fluid.

 

It is doable by an individual, but since there isn't a dipstick to me it would be best to let the dealer do it.

 

Like on my 10sp, the dealer is doing it.  I will give them the AMSOIL ATL and they said it wold be $110.  To me that is a great price.

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

It is doable like in the video.  The thermostat on the transmission should be bypassed if you ask me.  That way it  can flow through the cooler while it is running and not have to wait for it to get up to temp. 

 

Like on my 2002 that had the 4l60E, it didn't have a thermostat on the cooler line so when ever you disconnected the line from the cooler, the fluid would flow as soon as you started the truck.  Then you just let it flow out until the stream of fluid starts to slow down, then shut off the truck.  I like to have another person turn off the truck once I notice the fluid slowing down and  pushing air.  Then just add back fluid.  Thing is I had a dipstick and it was easy to do.  On the 8sp they don't and so it will be harder to add fluid.

 

You will need at least 16qts if not more.  When the dealership does it they want 20qts.  At least the dealership I talked to.  They put it all in the exchange machine and when the 20qts side is empty then it has a complete exchange of fluid.

 

It is doable by an individual, but since there isn't a dipstick to me it would be best to let the dealer do it.

 

Like on my 10sp, the dealer is doing it.  I will give them the AMSOIL ATL and they said it wold be $110.  To me that is a great price.

 

I asked the dealership if they would be willing to flush the system if I supplied the Amsoil.The answer was no because they use Mobil 1 and the Amsoil would contaminate their ATF. I was also quoted $471 to do the flush. 

I think I'm just going to drop the pan, change the filter and then add the 7 quarts of Amsoil. I know it's not ideal, but it is better than doing nothing.

Posted

Whereas genuine OEM oils are certainly considered quality they are pushed on the dealers.  The benefits to the OEM dealer in pushing OEM lubes is significant. It can increase discounts on other hard parts. It can also have negative consequences if they don't participate. .

OEM’s and who they are aligned with;

Toyota & GM – ExxonMobil

Posted
3 hours ago, UrbanRage said:

 

I asked the dealership if they would be willing to flush the system if I supplied the Amsoil.The answer was no because they use Mobil 1 and the Amsoil would contaminate their ATF. I was also quoted $471 to do the flush. 

I think I'm just going to drop the pan, change the filter and then add the 7 quarts of Amsoil. I know it's not ideal, but it is better than doing nothing.

Every dealer is different.  If you can't find one that is willing to do it with AMSOIL then not much you can do at that point.  I'm lucky and three dealers here would do it for me.  I just happen to be lucky to find one that has a lower hourly rate.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/28/2021 at 12:26 PM, Black02Silverado said:

Every dealer is different.  If you can't find one that is willing to do it with AMSOIL then not much you can do at that point.

True, With my truck, I just let the dealer put in the recommended fluids on a flush and fill. If things go bad, I have someone to blame since I'm using the recommended fluids.
With my BMW, 1990, I always supply the Amsoil fluids necessary and they are happy to use it.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone know if there is a way for the dealer to tell if the fluid change has been done by your VIN? Bought the truck used and I get the 1-2 2-3 clunk sometimes and have a 1700 mile trip coming up for the holidays so considering trying to get the truck in for fluid change before I head out but wondering if it is worth it at 45K miles.

 

Rock

Posted
2 hours ago, rockusaf said:

Does anyone know if there is a way for the dealer to tell if the fluid change has been done by your VIN? Bought the truck used and I get the 1-2 2-3 clunk sometimes and have a 1700 mile trip coming up for the holidays so considering trying to get the truck in for fluid change before I head out but wondering if it is worth it at 45K miles.

 

Rock

If done by a dealer, it should be in the vehicles records by VIN

  • Like 1
Posted

 

3 hours ago, rockusaf said:

Does anyone know if there is a way for the dealer to tell if the fluid change has been done by your VIN? Bought the truck used and I get the 1-2 2-3 clunk sometimes and have a 1700 mile trip coming up for the holidays so considering trying to get the truck in for fluid change before I head out but wondering if it is worth it at 45K miles.

 

Rock

Did you create an account with GM for your truck? You should be able to log in and see just about all the services that have been performed on it. 

https://custlogin.gm.com/gmb2cprod.onmicrosoft.com/b2c_1a_seamlessmigration_signuporsignin/oauth2/v2.0/authorize?client_id=43b9895e-a54a-412e-b11d-eaf11dac570d&scope=openid profile&redirect_uri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chevrolet.com%2F_gbpe%2Fcode%2Fprod1%2Fauth-waypoint.html&client-request-id=259bd2d6-49e8-4b3e-9fda-634bc834228a&response_mode=fragment&response_type=code&x-client-SKU=msal.js.browser&x-client-VER=2.11.0&x-client-OS=&x-client-CPU=&client_info=1&code_challenge=6iLRkN0MpWrt1c20PWxQpriKT9hDovzo-c5sWGTRsVw&code_challenge_method=S256&nonce=eac463c1-0274-4731-a650-90f91f02a1a9&state=eyJpZCI6ImNiYjk3NzBjLWVhMjAtNGIzNS05MDk5LWUyZDU1YTkxZWY1ZiIsIm1ldGEiOnsiaW50ZXJhY3Rpb25UeXBlIjoicmVkaXJlY3QifX0%3D|https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chevrolet.com%2Fmyaccount%2Foverview&brand=chevrolet&channel=globalnav&requiredMissingInfo=true&ui_locales=en-US

 

Once your logged in, there will probably be a circle with your initials on the top right of that page. Click on it, then select to Manage Vehicles. Another page will pop up with your truck and you can click on View Vehicle Overview. You can then scroll down and select Service History. There is also a selection for recalls and it should show any open recalls for your vehicle. IIRC the trans service was a recall so if it was performed, it won't show up in a recall check.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
34 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

 

Did you create an account with GM for your truck?

I did when I first got it, didn't even think of that Mike but I just logged in to check and it has no service records. Could have been done by previous owner and not associated with my account, not sure. I'm waiting to hear something back from the dealer service, the guy I talked to today was clueless but said he'd have someone get back with me...still waiting.

I'll be sure to update with what I find out and how it goes at the dealer.

 

Rock

Edited by rockusaf
I
  • Like 2
Posted
42 minutes ago, rockusaf said:

I did when I first got it, didn't even think of that Mike but I just logged in to check and it has no service records. Could have been done by previous owner and not associated with my account, not sure. I'm waiting to hear something back from the dealer service, the guy I talked to today was clueless but said he'd have someone get back with me...still waiting.

I'll be sure to update with what I find out and how it goes at the dealer.

 

Rock

Hopefully you will find out.  Worst case is get it done anyway.  45k is the prime time to have it done if it never was.  Good to know it is done and not have to worry.

  • Like 4
Posted

A note I found of interest. Viscosities at 100 C

 

AMSOIL SS ATF 7.5 cSt

AMSOIL SS ATL 6.3 cSt (ULV for 8 and 10 speed)

Red Line D4       7.5 cSt

Red Line D6        6.3 cSt

Mobil 1 LV ATF    5.7 cSt

Mobil 1 Dex HP   5.8 cSt

Mobil 1 Dex 6     5.83 cSt

Valvoline Dex6    6.0 cSt

Valvoline MLATF 5.9 cSt

 

All Dexron fluids have a minimum sheared (used) viscosity spec of 5.5 cSt. 

  • Like 2
Posted
23 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

Hopefully you will find out.  Worst case is get it done anyway.  45k is the prime time to have it done if it never was.  Good to know it is done and not have to worry.

The service guy I talked with today said he was going to write it up so it would be covered and they'd do the 20 quart flush with the new fluid under the TSB. Fingers crossed nothing changes when I bring it in tomorrow morning.

 

Rock

  • Like 4
Posted

Well the truck got done today, service guy said since it was still under the powertrain warranty it was easy and covered under the TSB without question. Only put around 20 miles on it after I picked it up, and they had just finished so it was warmed up from their test drive. Paperwork says the truck has to be driven for 200 miles to correct the torque converter shutter, not sure what takes 200 miles but it does seem to shift a lot smoother. I'll see in the morning if the 1-2 and 2-1 clunk is gone.

 

Rock

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...