Jump to content

2020 2500HD console to jump seat swap

Craig Deary
 Share

Recommended Posts

Craig Deary New Member

Craig Deary

Posted
Posted

I know I'll catch some wrath here, but I'm looking to swap the center console on my 2020 2500HD AT4 Sierra for a jump seat.  We just had our forth child and we can no longer take the truck anywhere as a family.  I've got a couple questions that I think members will likely be able to answer.

  1. Will this swap leave anything unfinished on the underside of the dash below the controls?
  2. Will there be carpet under the current storage area of the console?
  3. I've been able to locate a number of 1500 jump seats, but can't find any 2500HD.  Will a 1500 work in a 2500?  My seats are black leather now.

 

Thank you

  • Replies 39
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Zeke1800 Enthusiast

Zeke1800

Posted
Posted

I can't answer any of your questions but I might be able to help. I have a 2020 2500HD Custom. My jump seat had no storage, I had to have storage so I went looking for a jump seat with storage. I ended up installing one with top and bottom storage out of a 2016 Tahoe. It did not bolt in. I had to make brackets out of 1" flat stock. Easy process just took time. I don't have the wiring for all of the charger ports in the Tahoe console but I have them on the dash. To get a direct fit for a 2020 I think you might have to buy one for a 2020. Watch EBay, these Municipalities buy new vehicles and rip the consoles and jump seats out to install their equipment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

 have a jump seat I would swap you but mine isn't a AT4....LT 2500 HD....it opens top and bottom

  • 3 months later...
Matthew Hill New Member

Matthew Hill

Posted
Posted

I have the same EXACT “issue” (four kids, want six seats) and the same questions. I’m in the market for a 2020 2500HD and want all the nice tech of the LTZ but I need the jump seat.

 

I’ve seen videos of people swapping out the jump seat with console in 1500s, but nothing in 2500s. I did, however, measure the rear base of a 2500 and 1500 console and they are exactly the same. I believe they are interchangeable. But I have not fully confirmed that as fact yet. Hoping folks on here can help with that ?

swaptrex14 Enthusiast

swaptrex14

Posted
Posted
On 5/15/2020 at 8:55 AM, Zeke1800 said:

I can't answer any of your questions but I might be able to help. I have a 2020 2500HD Custom. My jump seat had no storage, I had to have storage so I went looking for a jump seat with storage. I ended up installing one with top and bottom storage out of a 2016 Tahoe. It did not bolt in. I had to make brackets out of 1" flat stock. Easy process just took time. I don't have the wiring for all of the charger ports in the Tahoe console but I have them on the dash. To get a direct fit for a 2020 I think you might have to buy one for a 2020. Watch EBay, these Municipalities buy new vehicles and rip the consoles and jump seats out to install their equipment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you have any pics?  I’m doing this exact conversion in my 2500.  Did you weld the flat stock to existing?  Thanks

greatmizzou Enthusiast

greatmizzou

Posted
Posted

I had to have my son sit in the middle of a 2020 1500 single cab.  With his carseat his feet were touching every dash control.  
 

I cant imagine doing that full time, its hard enough getting three carseats in the back as it is

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Matthew Hill said:

I have the same EXACT “issue” (four kids, want six seats) and the same questions. I’m in the market for a 2020 2500HD and want all the nice tech of the LTZ but I need the jump seat.

 

I’ve seen videos of people swapping out the jump seat with console in 1500s, but nothing in 2500s. I did, however, measure the rear base of a 2500 and 1500 console and they are exactly the same. I believe they are interchangeable. But I have not fully confirmed that as fact yet. Hoping folks on here can help with that ?

i believe the  LTZ does come in bench seat.....its either a 1500 or 2500 but i have seen them in bench seats with leather

 

EDIT: yes LTZ is available in 6 seats

Edited by Dunn
swaptrex14 Enthusiast

swaptrex14

Posted
Posted

I got mine done today.  Have a buddy that’s a welder.  We raised the console a little for comfort.  I’m 6’5” and I’ve always disliked how low the armrest is.  Turned out well, and everything is getting wrapped in red Katzkin next week.

E157D079-E98A-4578-917F-7A7A89B1F754.jpeg

  • 1 month later...
Ms295b New Member

Ms295b

Posted
Posted

So I habe a 2020 2500 HD Custom. I have a jump seat but no storage compartments. Any ideas where I can find a replacement that has the top and bottom storage compartments along with the AC vents and USB in the back?

 

Thanks. 

  • 4 weeks later...
I___F Enthusiast

I___F

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2020 3500 HD and I'm looking to trade my jump seat for a center console if anybody is interested. I will pay for shipping. The seat is dark gray fabric and there are 0 cosmetic blemishes given that it is brand new. Also, it has storage on top and under the seat.

metaljames Enthusiast

metaljames

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, I___F said:

I just bought a 2020 3500 HD and I'm looking to trade my jump seat for a center console if anybody is interested. I will pay for shipping. The seat is dark gray fabric and there are 0 cosmetic blemishes given that it is brand new. Also, it has storage on top and under the seat.

I would purchase this off you. I’m looking to upgrade to a jump seat with storage. Let me know, thanks!

  • 2 months later...
Colin1944 New Member

Colin1944

Posted
Posted

Has anyone successfully converted the 2020 3500 Denali centre console to the jump seat? Would love to see some pics or a how to on it if anyone has pulled it off?

brose05 New Member

brose05

Posted
Posted
On 1/3/2021 at 2:28 PM, Colin1944 said:

Has anyone successfully converted the 2020 3500 Denali centre console to the jump seat? Would love to see some pics or a how to on it if anyone has pulled it off?

Yes. This pic below is from a buddy that has a 2020 3500hd denali. Converted to the 6th seat all leather. Has storage top and bottom including all the accessories behind it. The woofer was mounted under the rear seats. Woofer can be abandoned as well with no issues to sound system. The seat is from a 2019/2020 which is the new style so it was just a simple bolts out and back in. No welding no issues. Simple swap. 

 

I have a 2021 3500hd denali that I am looking to do the same to. If someone wants to swap me for their jumper seat that has storage top and bottom including the 2 usb and air vents in the back let me know. I have the jet black leather interior. 

Resized_2(7).jpg

Resized_2(6).jpg

Mark French New Member

Mark French

Posted
Posted (edited)

Looking for a center console for my 2020 3500 Dually. Currently have jump seat (no storage). Truck has less than a 1000 miles, Interior color is black. Anyone wanna trade + cash?

Edited by Mark French
added text

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...