Oil Change for new truck what mileage?

[PPK]

When the first change occurs.. is really dependent on how you drive and what your level of comfort is. One thing i recommend is using a decent magnetic drain plug instead of OEM... That way if you have some issues with say hardening on lifter roller or cam.. you will get some evidence as the engine wears. If you want to be sophisticated.. weight it each change and track the iron from the engine deposited on the drain plug.

[BigMick2023]

My Silverado RST now has 750-miles @ 3-weeks of age......

I will make the first change at 3K then the rest will follow the oil monitor. 

 

Got the oil and filters for the first few changes already........

Costco has Mobil-1 0W-20 for $28.69 a case ($4.78 Qt) with free shipping. 

Great price....

 

https://www.costco.com/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy-full-synthetic-motor-oil-0w-20.product.100169812.html

 

[Sunnyd360]

54 minutes ago, BigMick2020 said:

My Silverado RST now has 750-miles @ 3-weeks of age......

I will make the first change at 3K then the rest will follow the oil monitor. 

 

Got the oil and filters for the first few changes already........

Costco has Mobil-1 0W-20 for $28.69 a case ($4.78 Qt) with free shipping. 

Great price....

 

https://www.costco.com/mobil-1-advanced-fuel-economy-full-synthetic-motor-oil-0w-20.product.100169812.html

 

I called my dealer they said first oil change is on GM free99  I would find out! 

[BigMick2023]

4 minutes ago, Sunnyd360 said:

I called my dealer they said first oil change is on GM free99  I would find out! 

Thanks, but I will do my own......

Then I know what oil is put in there and that it's done right...........I really don't want a 16-year old monkey changing my truck's oil.   

[07HD]

For what its worth, I guess were talking gas engine. My work truck, well use to be I still call it that 2007 2500HD 6.0 gas Mobil-1 since new, it gets new oil filter every 6000mi. and new oil at every other filter change. 185000mi. still going strong. other than fuel mileage about 12 to 14 mpg max , towing my big dump trailer about 8.  Not sure yet  about oil in my new Duramax  only 550 mi. on Her.

[foghorn23]

17 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Free oil changes for life on the dealer, so I am right at 5000 each time.

 

Have been hearing good things about the new synthetic AC Delco oil being used at the dealerships, still not sure who the manufacture is, but am happy with it.

From what I can find out, the AC Delco oil is produced by Mobil.

[Grumpy Bear]

To many to quote so I'll just wing it and hope I hit all the nails in the coffins lid. 

 

Motors at the factory are 'test fired' to check timing, leaks, oil pressure and so on but not actually broken in. 

 

AC-Delco is Mobil/Exxon

 

Some people say engines are built to tighter clearances today than yesteryear. What they mean to say is closer tolerances. What's true is machine finishes are smoother. Plateau honing and in some cases slide honing have drastically cut down on the amount of debris break-in use to generate. Most break in wear materials are from areas of sliding contact. Tolerances are indeed tighter but clearances are not all that different. Rod and mains are as they have always been, a thou per inch of diameter. Piston fit 'may' be tighter IF a hypereutectic pistons are fit and compared to previous forgings and low silicon castings. If the comparison is to early steel strut pistons, they were fit just as tight and were also coated. Tin instead of dry film but.....

 

Break in use to be a term meant to indicate degree of ring sealing and burnishing of sliding surfaces. Ring seal happens pretty fast in a new motor due to the honing and is less fussy about the how of it. You can reference GM document on piston/ring replacement for Gen IV AFM motors subject to warranty replacement. Even at 100,000 miles the cylinders are NOT honed and break in is considered complete between 1,000 / 1,500 miles. Your manual will suggest some form of 'running in" to last generally for 500 miles. Hold your speed, vary it, no towing etc. And that is what it is now, a running in and not so much a break-in. Still a higher volume of wear metals will be present for awhile. 

 

Those wear metals are visible which means two things. They are 40 micron or larger AND the will not be detected in a UOA whose upper limit of detection is roughly 10 micron. Nor will the dispersant package hold them in suspension at that size. They are removed via the oil change after warming and running. An early oil change is a flushing. 

 

Is an early change of oil absolutely required? No, not today. I've actually witnessed a motor make it to 100,000 miles, in the early 70's no less, where the motor oil was NEVER changed, nor the filter. Only add oil. So, required? I would expect if the fella that did that had done so with and modern motor that uses hydraulic devices, VVT/AFM it would not have made it to 50,000. 

 

True "running in" is a life time process whose chart I've put up many times and it is the same in modern motors as it was in the 1920's. High wear early on, sloping to a steady and declining rate for it's useful life with a harsh up tick just before it's death. The difference is in the absolute rates of wear early on. That first few thousand. 

 

I use to change at 50-500-1000-2500 and 2500 there after in the 60's/70's. 

 

Today I change 1,000-2,500 and 5,000 with 5,000 OCI thereafter on DOD motors, 7,500 on non DOD motors.

 

Well that's the story and there's what I do. Now....like diyer2 always says, Do what lets you sleep well. Have a nice day.  

 

 

 

 

 

[KARNUT]

I did one at 12 miles. I was about to do a bunch of demos in Florida for the DOT. So I put in Amsoil hooked up to my trailer, loaded up my demo machine. Come to think of it I did that with all my one tons. V-10s, 5.9s, 7.3s. The 1/2 tons usually 5-25K depending on the oil they came with. Never lost an engine in 40 years but one. A V-10 bad injector seals, leaned out. But peace of mind is the price of oil and a personal choice.


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[Dano89]

I think many are too worried on oil life when marketing drives in false sense of security to change your oil often. In Canada, before our metric system, it was recommended to change oil at 5000 miles. Probably not abnormal given engine tolerances and oil quality was no where near todays standards. Then we switched to the metric system and dealerships took the opportunity to cash in on oil change intervals remaining at 5000, but now in kms, which is only 3106 miles.  This slowly changed through time, but there still is a strong following on that old mind thought. 

I work with heavy equipment and also commercially drive for a living. In this industry, proper maintenance will not only save you money, but premature maintenance can have unneeded cost with no benefit. In this industry, oil monitoring is often done by monitoring oil in a lab, where the governing life line is engine hours, not milage.  All engines have no clue about millages and different driving conditions/speeds and habits can falsely perceive as "time to change oil". In the monitored commercial market, it's common to have oil changes at the 500 engine hr mark. To put this in perspective, my 19 silverado has 41000 kms (25,476 miles) and has 524 hours on engine. I know I too change my oil early as I follow the oil change monitoring system, but I know many change their oil far too soon with absolutely no benefit. Also keep in mind that our common v-8 engine carries an extra 2L of oil in the oil pan compared to the older v-8s. Just food for thought....

 

Dan

[Wintersun]

My first car was a 1954 Willys 4WD with a 4-banger and it needed about a gallon of oil added between oil changes. It was rare in the 1960's and 1970's for an engine to go more than 100,000 miles without a breakdown. Now no one thinks twice about driving a vehicle with 200,000 miles on the odometer. I used to have to regap spark plugs at 5,000 miles and now I can ignore them for 100,000 miles with unleaded gasoline now at the pumps. People do not realize that lead in gasoline was highly profitable for GM that owned the patent but highly destructive for engines and greatly shortened the life of the engine components.

 

What has changed over the past 50 years is the materials used in engines, the tolerances to which they are built (which increased again in 2017) and the motor oils that are in use and the absense of tetraethyl lead in gasoline. . Special motor oils had to be developed and tested over a period of years to work with the 2017 engines with their tighter tolerances and the lower viscosity of the motor oil, all designed to improve miles per gallon. So what I needed to do with my 1954 Willys does not apply for any car or truck made in the last 30 years and certainly not for a 2017 or later vehicle's engine.

 

The DIC computes the oil change interval based on the length of trips and the hours of operation and not just on miles driven. It is obvious why this makes more sense in that a truck driven for 6,000 miles mostly on the freeways at 60 mph on average and has 100 miles of engine use is a very different situation than a truck driven for 6,000 miles in stop and go traffic at an average speed of 30 mph overall and where there are 200 hours of engine operation involved. Also short trips with a cold engine result in more deposits in the crankcase oil. So I go with the DIC change recommendation and not some arbitrary number.

 

With a new engine the recommendations tend to be to avoid towing or driving at a constant speed or with the cruise control active for the first 1000 miles.

 

[Dalton Delogu]

I’m just following my oil life monitor in the truck. 2019 elevation. 5500 kms at 45% remaining. I’m assuming they want me in every 10k kms. Free oil changes. 

[diyer2]

I have also changed my oil and filter because I felt like it.

Especially if I towed a lot here in the mountains.

I can afford it, so why not?

 

[todd308]

I plan on doing my first one at 1000, then most likely every 5000, the first one I fully admit is just for my own peace of mind.  I think there's a few things at play, of course oil is better and mating surfaces are probably better, filters are better, engines are oiling better at idle, synthetic oil, etc. etc.    The other thing is a LOT of people don't keep cars more than 4-5 years now days, so it's not really important to them to make them last long term. 

 

I also don't think I trust anyone to do my oil changes but me, I've had more of my own families and buddies vehicles screwed up at dealers for simple service than anyone would believe, I almost trust pep-boys/jiffy lube more.  Wrong fluid put in a transmission, rear end cracked at the fill plug, low oil, too much oil, wrong oil.  Dealers should be ashamed of their service crews.   Not to mention the dealer I just bought my AT4 from installed the rear mud flaps backwards......pretty sure I don't want them doing the oil

[sweatandsteel]

34 minutes ago, todd308 said:

I plan on doing my first one at 1000, then most likely every 5000, the first one I fully admit is just for my own peace of mind.  I think there's a few things at play, of course oil is better and mating surfaces are probably better, filters are better, engines are oiling better at idle, synthetic oil, etc. etc.    The other thing is a LOT of people don't keep cars more than 4-5 years now days, so it's not really important to them to make them last long term. 

 

I also don't think I trust anyone to do my oil changes but me, I've had more of my own families and buddies vehicles screwed up at dealers for simple service than anyone would believe, I almost trust pep-boys/jiffy lube more.  Wrong fluid put in a transmission, rear end cracked at the fill plug, low oil, too much oil, wrong oil.  Dealers should be ashamed of their service crews.   Not to mention the dealer I just bought my AT4 from installed the rear mud flaps backwards......pretty sure I don't want them doing the oil

Yeah, I probably wouldn't let them touch mine again either!

[hotrodz37]

I only have 1600 miles on my truck and the oil life is at 49%. Is there a time/mileage calculation built into the oil life monitor? I know it’s not at 49% because of mileage. I have had my truck since November 19, was built in May of 19. I have such low miles because Covid has me working from home.

Just curious - I plan on changing at 3k anyway but wondering why it’s showing such low percentage already - unless there is the time factor built in as well.


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