Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 hours ago, Ghost Sierra said:

I just want all lights including tasks and cargo lights to come on when I unlock the truck.  

Me too! I looked at the diagrams a few weeks ago, and I couldn't figure out how to make it work. If you could find what made the normal unlock lights come on for the time period you selected in settings, you could theoretically just jump from that source to the Cargo Lamp Relay. However, I'm thinking the BCM does all that timing and telling what lights to come on when the truck unlocks. 

Posted
Me too! I looked at the diagrams a few weeks ago, and I couldn't figure out how to make it work. If you could find what made the normal unlock lights come on for the time period you selected in settings, you could theoretically just jump from that source to the Cargo Lamp Relay. However, I'm thinking the BCM does all that timing and telling what lights to come on when the truck unlocks. 


Yeah this would be a BCM programming thing. Wiring it to get it to do what you want would mean those lights would be on anytime the other lights are on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
12 minutes ago, Jav_eee said:

 


Yeah this would be a BCM programming thing. Wiring it to get it to do what you want would mean those lights would be on anytime the other lights are on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Seems like someone way smarter than me could make a pigtail out of a Raspberry Pi or something that could sense signals from the BCM and do something like this:  when a signal activates the lock actuators and the headlights/other lights at the same time THEN turn on Lights X & Y for 90 seconds or until the truck is shifted out of Park. 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Maybe someone can help me out under this string. I'm looking to have control of my task lighting while in drive. I'd like to be able to use the dash switch as supplied if possible. I know boost auto sells the High beam/Task light relay kit; however I don't always need them on and am more looking for the option to use them in drive as needed. I know its possible, I'm just not sure the BCM mysteries. Ground triggered, Diode direction, what cuts them off, etc... I know its got to be a easy   

Posted
On 5/24/2020 at 11:07 AM, EXSlider400 said:

Had to disconnect the task light diode as they still turn off when the truck goes to drive. But still have the fog light one in. 
 

The other issue is that the mirror’s task lights cycle just like pushing the button. So the first time you turn the brights on they both come on...then the next cycle is one side, then the other, then off. So even when you go from bright to dim they don’t change since the action of turning on the brights acts as pushing the task light button. Task light orientation does not reset when turning the light selector knob from auto to manual, but it still resets when the truck is restarted. 

 

BA6BD968-2F97-49F1-8ABB-83351BA40E60.jpeg
 

38975605-E23F-415A-9080-AB5A8471C49C.jpeg

DBBBFBD2-573F-4EA7-B846-74E82244C9B3.jpeg

the BCMs coding for the task lights is too restrictive to use the factory input. to get what you want you will need to use a relay energized by the high beams relay control circuit and apply 12V to both of the task light outputs, diode isolate the two outputs though otherwise you'll lose the feature where you can turn on just the left or right light in the stock configuration. the relay will turn both on.

I've been thinking about setting them up to come on constantly on the left/right side whenever the left/right turn signal is active as a cornering light.

Posted
On 8/27/2020 at 9:36 AM, jbr1888 said:

Seems like someone way smarter than me could make a pigtail out of a Raspberry Pi or something that could sense signals from the BCM and do something like this:  when a signal activates the lock actuators and the headlights/other lights at the same time THEN turn on Lights X & Y for 90 seconds or until the truck is shifted out of Park. 

I've actually done that sort of thing a couple of times, although use an automotive grade micro controller, not a pi. a pi is too big, too power hungry, and may not be rated for the environment an automotive application subjects it to. I've got a controller in my car and had one in my last truck as well. fun stuff!

 

what about using a diode to tie the cargo lights to come on with the puddle lights? the puddle lights do not come on while the vehicle is driving, they are not controllable manually by the driver, but they do come on when you hit the unlock and stay on after engine shut down as perimeter lighting when its dark outside.

Posted
On 12/1/2020 at 10:38 PM, kodiakdenali said:

I've actually done that sort of thing a couple of times, although use an automotive grade micro controller, not a pi. a pi is too big, too power hungry, and may not be rated for the environment an automotive application subjects it to. I've got a controller in my car and had one in my last truck as well. fun stuff!

 

what about using a diode to tie the cargo lights to come on with the puddle lights? the puddle lights do not come on while the vehicle is driving, they are not controllable manually by the driver, but they do come on when you hit the unlock and stay on after engine shut down as perimeter lighting when its dark outside.

Kodiak, have you looked at this anymore since this post? 

Posted
1 hour ago, jbr1888 said:

Kodiak, have you looked at this anymore since this post? 

I haven't looked into it further, too many other things going on. At some point in the coming months I'll turn my attention to modifying how my truck's lights operate, I have a many point wish list that I hope to implement all at once and in as much a plug and play manor as possible.

Posted
4 hours ago, jbr1888 said:

Kodiak, have you looked at this anymore since this post? 

I looked it up, should be feasible

disclaimer: I haven't tested this yet, so please verify before you modify anything. but also be sure to post if you do this!

both signals are +12V signals, so you can use a diode to tie them together.

the puddle lights are controlled by the BCM connector X7, pin 8, GRY/GRN wire, this puts +12V directly to the lower puddle light LEDs in the mirrors.

the exterior cargo lights and interior cargo lights (bed lights) are controlled independently.

exterior cargo lights are activated by a relay which is  controlled by BCM connector X6, pin 26, BRN/WHT wire

even though this wire is a relay control, it looks like it controls the relay with 12V and not ground like is usually the case. the schematics clearly show the relay coil getting one signal from the BCM, the other side is tied to ground.

since the only thing that you would be adding to the puddle lights circuit is a simple relay control, you likely can do this just with a diode, you won't be adding much load at all.

 

so...theoretically:

 

A FORWARD biased diode between X7 (gray connector), pin 8 (GRY/GRN) and X6 (pink connector), pin 26 (BRN/WHT) should activate the exterior cargo lights (high mount cargo light and the "hitch" light on the tailgate, but not the bed lights) any time the puddle lights are on. Forward biased means the stripe on the diode should go towards the X6 pin 26 BRN/WHT wire.

 

for reference if you look at the upfitter manual:

BCM pinout for the puddle lights (BCM connector X7) is on page 7-257 ***note that for some reason the schematic seems to use the term "puddle lights" to refer both to the puddle lights and the task lights, they are not the same, but the manual uses the same name. no idea why, verify this with the schematic page referenced below)

BCM pinout for the cargo lights relay control (BCM connector X6) is on page 7-256 ***note the manual for some reason refers to the cargo light relay as the "standing lamp relay control" which again, you can verify this is the correct wire on the schematic referenced below

the puddle lights schematic is on page 2-35. which shows the puddle lights connected together (left and right) powered by positive voltage from the BCM, X7 pin 8. You can also see the task lights on this schematic. I don't know why the naming inconsistency, but the BCM pinout calls both lights "puddle lights" the schematic uses the terms flood lights lower and flood lights forward for the puddle lights and task lights respectively. at least I think I don't know what else those could possibly be.

cargo lights schematic is on page 2-38, which shows the cargo lamp relay controlled by BCM X6 pin 26 (which the BCM pinout refers to as "standing lamp relay" for some reason)

 

if you give this a try please reply back to let me know if it worked as expected! keep in mind that depending on the exact model and options its possible some of the above information may not apply to all trucks, by the way mine is a Sierra, the above is from/referencing the Sierra manual. I imagine the silverado is the same, but check that before modifying anything!

  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, kodiakdenali said:

I looked it up, should be feasible

disclaimer: I haven't tested this yet, so please verify before you modify anything. but also be sure to post if you do this!

both signals are +12V signals, so you can use a diode to tie them together.

the puddle lights are controlled by the BCM connector X7, pin 8, GRY/GRN wire, this puts +12V directly to the lower puddle light LEDs in the mirrors.

the exterior cargo lights and interior cargo lights (bed lights) are controlled independently.

exterior cargo lights are activated by a relay which is  controlled by BCM connector X6, pin 26, BRN/WHT wire

even though this wire is a relay control, it looks like it controls the relay with 12V and not ground like is usually the case. the schematics clearly show the relay coil getting one signal from the BCM, the other side is tied to ground.

since the only thing that you would be adding to the puddle lights circuit is a simple relay control, you likely can do this just with a diode, you won't be adding much load at all.

 

so...theoretically:

 

A FORWARD biased diode between X7 (gray connector), pin 8 (GRY/GRN) and X6 (pink connector), pin 26 (BRN/WHT) should activate the exterior cargo lights (high mount cargo light and the "hitch" light on the tailgate, but not the bed lights) any time the puddle lights are on. Forward biased means the stripe on the diode should go towards the X6 pin 26 BRN/WHT wire.

 

for reference if you look at the upfitter manual:

BCM pinout for the puddle lights (BCM connector X7) is on page 7-257 ***note that for some reason the schematic seems to use the term "puddle lights" to refer both to the puddle lights and the task lights, they are not the same, but the manual uses the same name. no idea why, verify this with the schematic page referenced below)

BCM pinout for the cargo lights relay control (BCM connector X6) is on page 7-256 ***note the manual for some reason refers to the cargo light relay as the "standing lamp relay control" which again, you can verify this is the correct wire on the schematic referenced below

the puddle lights schematic is on page 2-35. which shows the puddle lights connected together (left and right) powered by positive voltage from the BCM, X7 pin 8. You can also see the task lights on this schematic. I don't know why the naming inconsistency, but the BCM pinout calls both lights "puddle lights" the schematic uses the terms flood lights lower and flood lights forward for the puddle lights and task lights respectively. at least I think I don't know what else those could possibly be.

cargo lights schematic is on page 2-38, which shows the cargo lamp relay controlled by BCM X6 pin 26 (which the BCM pinout refers to as "standing lamp relay" for some reason)

 

if you give this a try please reply back to let me know if it worked as expected! keep in mind that depending on the exact model and options its possible some of the above information may not apply to all trucks, by the way mine is a Sierra, the above is from/referencing the Sierra manual. I imagine the silverado is the same, but check that before modifying anything!

DANG! THIS IS AWESOME! THANK YOU! I'll let you know. I'm going to check your math against the diagram, then I'll give it a shot and report back.

  • 7 months later...
Posted
On 12/8/2020 at 4:36 PM, kodiakdenali said:

I looked it up, should be feasible

disclaimer: I haven't tested this yet, so please verify before you modify anything. but also be sure to post if you do this!

both signals are +12V signals, so you can use a diode to tie them together.

the puddle lights are controlled by the BCM connector X7, pin 8, GRY/GRN wire, this puts +12V directly to the lower puddle light LEDs in the mirrors.

the exterior cargo lights and interior cargo lights (bed lights) are controlled independently.

exterior cargo lights are activated by a relay which is  controlled by BCM connector X6, pin 26, BRN/WHT wire

even though this wire is a relay control, it looks like it controls the relay with 12V and not ground like is usually the case. the schematics clearly show the relay coil getting one signal from the BCM, the other side is tied to ground.

since the only thing that you would be adding to the puddle lights circuit is a simple relay control, you likely can do this just with a diode, you won't be adding much load at all.

 

so...theoretically:

 

A FORWARD biased diode between X7 (gray connector), pin 8 (GRY/GRN) and X6 (pink connector), pin 26 (BRN/WHT) should activate the exterior cargo lights (high mount cargo light and the "hitch" light on the tailgate, but not the bed lights) any time the puddle lights are on. Forward biased means the stripe on the diode should go towards the X6 pin 26 BRN/WHT wire.

 

for reference if you look at the upfitter manual:

BCM pinout for the puddle lights (BCM connector X7) is on page 7-257 ***note that for some reason the schematic seems to use the term "puddle lights" to refer both to the puddle lights and the task lights, they are not the same, but the manual uses the same name. no idea why, verify this with the schematic page referenced below)

BCM pinout for the cargo lights relay control (BCM connector X6) is on page 7-256 ***note the manual for some reason refers to the cargo light relay as the "standing lamp relay control" which again, you can verify this is the correct wire on the schematic referenced below

the puddle lights schematic is on page 2-35. which shows the puddle lights connected together (left and right) powered by positive voltage from the BCM, X7 pin 8. You can also see the task lights on this schematic. I don't know why the naming inconsistency, but the BCM pinout calls both lights "puddle lights" the schematic uses the terms flood lights lower and flood lights forward for the puddle lights and task lights respectively. at least I think I don't know what else those could possibly be.

cargo lights schematic is on page 2-38, which shows the cargo lamp relay controlled by BCM X6 pin 26 (which the BCM pinout refers to as "standing lamp relay" for some reason)

 

if you give this a try please reply back to let me know if it worked as expected! keep in mind that depending on the exact model and options its possible some of the above information may not apply to all trucks, by the way mine is a Sierra, the above is from/referencing the Sierra manual. I imagine the silverado is the same, but check that before modifying anything!

Anyone try this yet?

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 7/21/2021 at 7:55 PM, TheOriginal808 said:

Anyone try this yet?

https://boostautoparts.com/products/high-spot?utm_source=GM+2019%2B+High+Beam+to+Spot&utm_medium=Comment&utm_campaign=YouTube
 

 

Boost Autoparts basically did what was previously mentioned and powered a relay. Not a bad price and only takes a few minutes. The diode is easy for the fog mod, but this is a little more to it. 

 

Edited by EXSlider400
Posted
7 hours ago, EXSlider400 said:

https://boostautoparts.com/products/high-spot?utm_source=GM+2019%2B+High+Beam+to+Spot&utm_medium=Comment&utm_campaign=YouTube
 

 

Boost Autoparts basically did what was previously mentioned and powered a relay. Not a bad price and only takes a few minutes. The diode is easy for the fog mod, but this is a little more to it. 

 

I installed this on my 2021 SLT, works as advertised.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Just installed. At first I had the wires mixed up as directions were ok but not great. But works good…bad pic..

CECF4C79-9FC5-4C11-B2BC-0C01B02F04E4.jpeg

Edited by EXSlider400
Posted

My aftermarket fog lights that I bought have a fog light feature as well as a DRL feature. I have a 2021 Silverado, anyone know what wire to tap/splice in the factory harness (at the pigtail at the light) for the factory DRL’s? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...