Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I feel like  all I see online regarding the 14-18 Silverados and Sierras is basically negative.  Stories of many of guys having major transmission issues and/or failures before 100K miles, clunking drivelines and steering ...etc...

 

I’ve had some rattles that I’ve more or less figured out now, but I haven’t had anything catastrophic yet. - knock on wood.  And of course I shouldn’t considering I only have around 23k miles on my truck.  (2017 5.3L with 6 speed, RWD crew cab)

 

I really do wonder though, what are my chances of getting slammed with some big expense when the thing only has 70k miles on it in a couple or three  years from now?

 

Anyone out there getting  up there in mileage 14-18 with no issues?  

 

Maybe I’m just looking for a good confidence boost right now 

 

incidentally, my 2001 and 2004 Sierras I used to own were trouble free, put a good amount of miles on both.

Posted (edited)

Honestly forums really blow everything out of proportion. Usually people join a forum for repair advice or to rant about their car.   No one joins to say "Hey!  Nothing is wrong with my 6 year old truck!  I love it.  Bye"

 

I'm also in to hear from higher mileage guys.   

 

 

Edited by m3n00b
  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I'm at 98,859 miles on my 2014 Z71 LTZ and so far AC has been my only gripe.  I put a CAI on at 23k, custom exhaust at 31k, Hypertech tune at 65-70k-ish, and have done some occassional heavy hauls (50 bags of mulch many times, two 1600lb pallets of stone (two separate trips), towed a skid steer once (well over the tow rating), and been offroad many a times over the years, and other various tasks you can expect a truck to endure over the years, along with spirited driving.

 

I plan on keeping my truck till ~150k before I get another one.

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I have 105,000 miles on my 2016 CC 5.3/6L80e and literally nothing has really gone wrong. It had a stuck thermostat this past winter and that was it. I didn't drive all these miles but I saw all the service records from the dealer and other shops before buying it.

 

I beat on it daily, I have some mechanical sympathy but I put this truck through it's paces all the time. To me it's the people that baby their vehicles are the ones that have problems with them. I'm not jumping it over curbs or hitting the trails with it, just driving it like a 5,500lbs sports car sometimes lol.

 

It's got a intake, cat back system, E85 conversion, did the trans cooler thermostat mod and it's tuned by myself. It's been a turn key and go every day.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
Posted

My 2015 RCSB 4.3 six speed rolled over 117,000 today. Two minor repairs. A pinion seal that I could have not done and would have taken a lifetime to empty the diff but I can't stand damp seals. $8. Replaced a small plastic 'filler' around the starter that warped and caused some noise. $10 part but $100 to get at it.  

 

A few recalls like the seat belt. A power steering module reprogram. I've ignored the ABS brake vacuum calibration. If the pump fails I'll replace it instead of putting a band-aid on it.

 

Everything else has been something I wanted to do, not needed to. Still on the OEM tires and brakes. One set of wiper blades.

 

Some I'm sure think I over maintain her but....I like the results. The longer it runs the better it runs. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Coming up on 113k on 2016SLT!  Put it this way....It runs better than brand new when I got it.  AC compressor failed (70k) for me and the center console latch broke recently.  At least 5 qty windshields, 2nd set of shoes all around....I am brake freak so I do excessively change out pads so probably 4th set.  All Stock other than shocks etc. opps...I did tune out the 4cly/8cy mode to only come on above 42mph PURFECT!

These are solid,solid trucks and engines no doubt!  200k is walk in the park on these K1's with routine maintenance.  I will be taking mine shortly on a road trip and have no doubts in it's 113k reliability?  I have pounded GM V8 platforms for decades.....Longevity,reliability and operating costs there is no comparison.  

  • Like 1
Posted

120k miles on my 2014 chev, replaced driveshaft , vacuum pump , thermostat and a set of brakes. pull my 3500 lb boat every weekend in the summer , still going strong. oh i forgot i also had to replace the battery, but i think everyone has to do that

Posted

Knocking on wood while I type this. My 15 has 107K on it. I’ve had a pinion seal replaced, drivers side heated seat element replaced, the seat belt recall done, lower ball joints and the tailgate dampener replaced 5 times before I figured out the issue and had the dealer fix it. I’m still on original brakes all the way around too. Outside of those things, the truck has been great! I’ve got extended warranty out to 172K so i plan to keep the truck at least that long. Oh and I put 5100’s on it when the factory shocks failed at 40K.

My boss has a 14 Silverado 1500 and has over 300K on it. Only things he’s done besides brakes is a new transmission and torque this past summer. He doesn’t even have the AFM disabled and no issues with his engine. This is what I’m hoping for with my truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

2017 CC 5.3/6L80 4x4

 

At 87.5k I’m not at what I’d consider high mileage, but I’ll hit 90k within the next 2 weeks and 100k by the end of the year. The truck has been NY-FL twice so far this year, with 2 more to go, as well as a few NY-OBX trips. It’s hauled a crowned bed of white oak with 4K lbs behind it a couple times, with many more to go. 

 

Ive had to replace... the brake pads and rotors all around. I replaced plugs and wires at 75k miles. I’m Still on the original AC condenser, no tune, no catch can, no mods.  If I keep highway speed under 70 it can pull an almost 27 mpg tank average. No shudders, no clunks, no confused shifts.

 

I may “overmaintain” as well, but things like misfires, stalls, shudders, and broken parts are not things I typically ever deal with (with one notable exception), no matter the mileage or the marque. My maintenance strategy is preventive/predictive, not reactive. 

 

Engine oil- 5k

Coolant/brake fluid- 2 years

Transmission drain/fill- yearly

Transfer case- 20k 

Diffs- 30k

Plugs/wires- 60-75k. The other vehicles get COPs at around 100k. 

They get washed 2-4 times a month depending on mileage. Same with interior cleaning, especially the inside glass. Waxed as soon as the water begins to stop beading. Foil windshield sunshield everytime they get parked. 

 

Yes its got 2/3 the mileage of the 155k 5.4-3v F150 FX4 it replaced, but this truck is much better design, IMO. I have no interest in 4 hour spark plug jobs, full timing rebuilds at least once in the truck’s life, or corroded fuel pump drivers. One thing I’ve always loved about GMs is the relative ease of maintaining/repairing them. I see no reason for the drivetrain to not outlast the body/chassis (which is 100% rust, dent, scratch, flake free) and go 300k miles. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

60k mile 2014

 

besides the AC and the recalls, it’s been tock solid.

 

I’m actually surprised how well the chassis stiffness and rattles are holding up. It’s still very stiff and quiet. The roads around here are very rough and causes most cars to loosen up quickly. This truck is still stiff.

Posted
52 minutes ago, 16LT4 said:

 

 

My maintenance strategy is preventive/predictive, not reactive. 

 

 

Nice to see a thread like this instead of the usual whinny miffs. And folks, that's how it's done. Top O' the hat to this fella. 

 

:thumbs:

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

2014 Sierra 84,500 miles, original owner.  No problems so far, my next maintenance step is to replace transmission fluid and filter.

Posted

These testimonials to the longevity of our trucks are wonderful to read  but conflict with my arguments for buying a new truck!  

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 Still on the OEM tires 

 

Specification or actual tires?  

Posted
1 minute ago, Donstar said:

Specification or actual tires?  

Actual tires. Right at 5/32 and as even as a billiard green. Figure I'll change them around 125 K. Crazy, right? 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,323 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...