Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Lets talk bumpers!

Has anyone done a front and rear end bumper replacement? Here are the options I have found that I have been told (but not confirmed) work with a 2020 Sierra 1500 AT4 with tech package (adaptive cruise, cross path detection, front and rear parking sensors).

 

I would prefer to having something with a front receiver and grill guard built in. Front receiver preference so I can just buy one winch and not have to worry about dishing out the big bucks for two winches.

 

Front Bumpers:

Frontier Gear Front Bumpers: Two options, one with a light bar and one without, this is the link to the non-lightbar one. Had these bumpers on my 2017 and never had a complaint.

Westin HDX Bandit Front Bumper: They claim this one fits a 2019 and they claim the wire mesh is removable to work with adaptive cruise control but based on the way it looks I’m not convinced.

Ranch Hand Midnight Front Bumper: Found some pictures at the non-factory website over HERE.

Bodyguard A2L Baja Front Bumper: Does not have a grill guard and dang, that price tag…

Addictive Desert Designs Front Bumpers: Large price tag and no grill guard

Fab Fours Front Bumpers: Large price tag

 

Rear Bumpers:

Frontier Gear Rear Bumper: Again, had this product on my 2017 and loved it. It was a different style but it was great.

Westin Outlaw Rear Bumper: Not compatible with factory trailer hitch but I like how it hides the hitch (after you install theirs). Not sure how sturdy or reliable this one would be, looks more like a baja bumper with thin sheet metal to cover up the gaps.

Westin HDX Bandit Rear Bumper: Like the look and style, but on back order

Ranch Hand Sport Rear Bumper: Looks nice, really no major opinion

Bodyguard A2 Rear Bumper: Looks the most aggressive but, dang that price tag!

Addictive Desert Designs Rear Bumpers: Large price tag

Fab Fours Rear Bumpers: Large price tag

 

What are your thoughts? Have you seen anything better?

 

Final question is paint/ finish options. Leave it black powder coated as it comes? Strip and repaint to match vehicle color (pacific blue)? Strip and add a product like Rhino Liner or Line-X in standard black? Strip and add Rhino Liner or Line-X product with color match, it wont be exact because they can’t gloss it but it’ll be close.

 

As suggestions come in I can edit the original post to add more.

Edited by texas4ever
Posted

The grumper exists [emoji23]

Don't forget the adaptive cruise using the camera behind the rear view mirror.

I stopped looking at bumpers when I saw shipping quotes over $2,000 for a $1750 bumper.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, topgear1224 said:

The grumper exists emoji23.png

Don't forget the adaptive cruise using the camera behind the rear view mirror.

I stopped looking at bumpers when I saw shipping quotes over $2,000 for a $1750 bumper.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

I have been able to find a difference in over 1K just for parts alone for the Frontier Gear bumper. Total cost front and rear installed I found for $1625.00 in San Antonio, Texas. To sand blast and add the bed liner coating with color match I found the cheapest for $450 for both.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

  Attached are pictures of a Frontier front bumper w/ brush guard on my 2020 AT4. The bar on the brush guard does block the front camera slightly, but you are still able to use it to gauge the distance between the front bumper and the object in front of you due to the angle. Install took 1.5 hours at a store. This is Frontier Truck Gear - 300-31-9008.

CramIt_MVIMG_20200728_09441820200728_094659.jpg

CramIt_MVIMG_20200728_09451420200728_094658.jpg

 

CramIt_MVIMG_20200728_09452220200728_094658.jpg

Edited by iammrrush
black out license
Posted

I have this bad boy in my garage, i'll install it once i get a winch and lights

bumper.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Road Armor just had a 50% off sale for the second time this year.  I bought a front and rear and the shipping was $150.

  • 2 years later...
Posted (edited)

couple I see on the super duties in Alberta quite often are from these brands, always envious of these deer smashers and want one for my half ton, length would mean I'm no longer parking in the garage though so I continue to dream, I like parking in garage, for security reasons over all other reasons, I kill master power on garage every night

 

https://www.aliarc.com/category/products/pick-up-bumpers/

https://herd.com/pickup-guards/

 

Herd and Ali Arc brands, hope that helps fill in any other possible options/blanks on the bumper listings and manufacturers.

 

I put a fab fours steel on my gladiator and before half a winter was over rust started and almost all steel bumpers in the snow belt where roads are salted look like rusty junk in no time. IMO the only way to fly would be stainless or aluminum. Otherwise just another rusty looking pos waiting to happen. 

 

 

Edited by 4banger

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...