Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, SWBuckeye said:

So, anyone happen to know if the wiring harness is present in the door for this option?

 

I've not taken the door apart yet but thought I'd ask to see if anyone knew.

I added painted handles yesterday to my 2020 LTZ that has keyless buttons on the front only.  The wiring harness is not present in the rear doors, was hoping it would be.  I added rear handles with buttons anyways though, I prefer the look of all 4.

62CFCE98-DC87-4F7F-90B2-DC3848570549.jpeg

Edited by pewterliftedz
Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, pewterliftedz said:

I added painted handles yesterday to my 2020 LTZ that has keyless buttons on the front only.  The wiring harness is not present in the rear doors, was hoping it would be.  I added rear handles with buttons anyways though, I prefer the look of all 4.

62CFCE98-DC87-4F7F-90B2-DC3848570549.jpeg

NICE!!!!  Looks so much better. 

 

Did you have to take the door pad off? Or can you remove it w/out doing that? Pls, do share. 

 

Were the tow mirrors factory or did you add those on?  Did you replace the chrome window trim or wrap?

 

Edited by SWBuckeye
Posted
2 hours ago, amxguy1970 said:

I have seen this complaint a few times and don't understand it, and I have first hand experience as my Fiance's Rav4 does the same thing where only the front doors unlock the vehicle with the proximity key. All we have to do is reach out a few feet to grab the front door handle to unlock the entire vehicle, not a big deal. As vehicles do more things people get entitled and there could easily be other reasons for it like reducing accidental activation of the locks. For example it eliminates two doors that can be accidentally unlocked by leaning or rubbing against it. I know with the Rav4 if I have the key in my pocked while washing the car when cleaning the handles the doors can lock/unlock. My brothers Altima has the unlock only on the front doors and he just touches the front door then puts my nephew in the back, easy peasy. 

 

Tyler

There maybe a few reasons for the complaint/criticism.....(not trying to be or sound offensive here?!)....but driver age, physical limitations, extent of use as well as how the truck is used, let alone the fact it is a $60K+ truck and a top of line trim package. When the truck is a 2nd office and you spend a lot of time on the road, it becomes a convenience issue that you learn to appreciate as you get older.....at least that's how I look at it.

Posted

my 2020 LT  has buttons on both front and back doors

Posted
There maybe a few reasons for the complaint/criticism.....(not trying to be or sound offensive here?!)....but driver age, physical limitations, extent of use as well as how the truck is used, let alone the fact it is a $60K+ truck and a top of line trim package. When the truck is a 2nd office and you spend a lot of time on the road, it becomes a convenience issue that you learn to appreciate as you get older.....at least that's how I look at it.
The other thing that pisses me off about gm when they remove stuff for new model year, typically the prices go up a little bit anyway.

For the new model year traverse they are getting rid of the more advanced awd system to a cheaper one that isn't as good but they aren't charging less. Its a bad philosophy that GM seems to have these days for all their stuff.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
14 minutes ago, Mikedfw said:

The other thing that pisses me off about gm when they remove stuff for new model year, typically the prices go up a little bit anyway.

For the new model year traverse they are getting rid of the more advanced awd system to a cheaper one that isn't as good but they aren't charging less. Its a bad philosophy that GM seems to have these days for all their stuff.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Yup, kinda like how the T1s have single speed transfer case now if you don't pay extra for Z71

Posted
56 minutes ago, Dunn said:

my 2020 LT  has buttons on both front and back doors

So the 2500's get the back buttons ? Any pics ?

Posted
12 minutes ago, f8l vnm said:

So the 2500's get the back buttons ? Any pics ?

thumbnail?appId=YMailNorrin

Posted

kinda strange why they wouldnt do same for both 1500/2500/3500

Posted
5 hours ago, SWBuckeye said:

NICE!!!!  Looks so much better. 

 

Did you have to take the door pad off? Or can you remove it w/out doing that? Pls, do share. 

 

Were the tow mirrors factory or did you add those on?  Did you replace the chrome window trim or wrap?

 

i had to remove all 4 door panels.   The fronts you need to remove them to unplug the button wires, on the rear I didn't need to since I didn't have buttons originally, but I wanted to see if the wires were still there.  If you do not have keyless entry buttons the door handles are super easy with a simple youtube search.

 

I added the tow mirrors last week, they are factory power folding and have blind spot.  I was able to find them on ebay.  Chrome trim was wrapped with gloss black vinyl.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Wayne Black said:

Oh God! It's so HARD to unlock the rear doors by punching the front door lock button twice!

How will I get by?

 

1st world problem.

Not so much a First World Problem as it is a Second Year Problem. Few of us would even care to lift a finger to complain about the (shortsighted? Misguided? Stupid?) decision to remove the rear buttons from the Chevy lineup of the GM brands, if they had not given four buttons to us to begin with. It’s perfectly rational to air one’s grievances in such a scenario. 
 

And as one who uses the rear button almost more than my front button on my 2019 RST, I sit in the camp of grievances. 

Edited by econometrics
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

You can configure the front buttons to open all 4 doors with one touch; problem solved.

 

 

Edited by gf2020
Posted
On 8/14/2020 at 11:02 PM, gf2020 said:

You can configure the front buttons to open all 4 doors with one touch; problem solved.

 

 

Or, for once in their life, GM could decide not to cheap out and just give everybody four buttons like they did for 2019. 

Posted
14 minutes ago, jlong1984 said:

Or, for once in their life, GM could decide not to cheap out and just give everybody four buttons like they did for 2019. 

It's also entirely possible that GM was having issues replacing faulty rear buttons and just decided they weren't needed and you could configure the front button to unlock all the doors.

 

When I was a Senior in High School my daily driver was a '57 Chevy and I know this sounds crazy, but you had to actually stick the key into the door and turn it 90 degrees to unlock your car!

 

Times were tough back then!

 

A friend had a '57 four door hardtop and to unlock the back door you had to reach around in the open front door and pull the button up!

By the end of the day, you were totally exhausted.

 

Sarcasm.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 555 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...