Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
16 hours ago, ColoradoCub said:

I just ordered 6112’s and 5160’s, and a 2” block for the back to add some rake. God I hope it makes this truck ride better!

 

I think you will be happy. I did the same set-up, except with a 1" block.

Posted
6 hours ago, BowtieBill said:

 

I think you will be happy. I did the same set-up, except with a 1" block.


yeah I tow stuff and there’s nothing worse than running around nose in the air and ass end sagging. Especially on mountain roads where the headlights become ineffective. I only have 1” difference between the front and back fenders in stock form and if I stand in the bed the rear is lower than the front.. that’s no bueno.

Posted
On 9/30/2020 at 2:43 PM, BossTaco2020 said:

Bump! Would love to know if anyone has the 6112's on a TrailBoss?

Mine just cam in this week.  Will be installing them soon. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am new to the site but have been lurking for a while.

 

I see that Bilstein offers two different part numbers of the 6112 for the T1 Silverado, 47-293557 for non-Trail Boss and 47-309524 for the Trail Boss.

 

Does anyone know if the Trail Boss version is longer to begin with or if it just has higher c-clip ? Do they use the same spring rate? Does anyone know why it doesn't show as being compatible with the Sierra AT4 Duramax?

 

I have a 2020 RST Duramax and am trying to lift 2.5-3" in the front and thought the Trail Boss 6112 on the middle clip would be ideal if there is no obvious compatibility issue.

 

Thanks in advance

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/15/2021 at 3:10 PM, GK Hill said:

Great dampers. They really soak up bumps and take all mush out of the ride. Sucks they are on back order.

 

I set the 6112s on slot 2 which is .40”

 

Then I added the N35 Deaver mini pack. Now I will go up to slot 3 or 4. I don’t want to go a full 2” without new front 1/2 shafts.

 

damn 90 out photos smh.

9B224F7B-DA42-414E-8016-B8E11B2C5542.jpeg

7DD965A2-5F66-4A8D-9D10-90DFDD90E966.jpeg

4957C876-498D-4FDF-A4BE-21A400E845AB.jpeg

How much lift in the rear did you get from the Deaver mini pack?

Posted
On 7/7/2021 at 11:52 AM, mvinyard said:

How much lift in the rear did you get from the Deaver mini pack?

1"-1.25" total rear lift.

 

1/2 tank of fuel before 37.5" driver side 37.25" passenger side. 3/4 tank of fuel after 38.5" driver side 38.25" passenger side. DEF tank was about the same before and after. Rear ride height is affected much more with cargo weight compared to stock leafs.

Posted
On 5/20/2021 at 10:36 AM, IdahoElevation said:

 

895F4109-2AD7-4DE2-BCCF-D39AF37E985C.jpeg

Did you get the 5100s put on the back?  Do you happen to have a side shot?  I have a black sierra with the 2" factory lift and want to get my nose up.  Thinking about the 6112s and 5100 combo.

Posted

So I went with the Zone lift level with control arms and 35s on method wheels on a trail boss and what I'm experiencing now is what I would call an "anxious" or "jittery" suspension. Very bouncy/jittery over bumps and very anxious to spring back. 

I'm assuming the Ranchos are not that great so I've been looking into this 6112/5160 setup. 

I assume everyone with lifted wheels and tires notice significant smoother ride quality with the bilsteins?

  • Haha 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

I just ordered the 6112’s for my LT 4x4 today. Super excited to install them. I will be removing my leveling blocks and swapping. For the rear I have the Helwig swaybar and the Road Master Active suspension (RAD) the heavy duty version, new shocks for rear are next. The RAD lifts the rear by 1-1/2” by pulling the leaf springs together. Gonna add a 1” block to keep a rake because I haul often. I absolutely love them! Just wanted to share because I see you guys mentioning blocks etc. to lift the rear so often. I don’t think many people know about the RAD kits, but they are amazing. My opinion of course. Better than air bags.

Edited by Roo Barton
  • 2 months later...
Posted

@Christopher Biggers

On 6/11/2021 at 9:45 AM, Christopher Biggers said:

I am new to the site but have been lurking for a while.

 

I see that Bilstein offers two different part numbers of the 6112 for the T1 Silverado, 47-293557 for non-Trail Boss and 47-309524 for the Trail Boss.

 

Does anyone know if the Trail Boss version is longer to begin with or if it just has higher c-clip ? Do they use the same spring rate? Does anyone know why it doesn't show as being compatible with the Sierra AT4 Duramax?

 

I have a 2020 RST Duramax and am trying to lift 2.5-3" in the front and thought the Trail Boss 6112 on the middle clip would be ideal if there is no obvious compatibility issue.

 

Thanks in advance

Did you ever find an answer to this?

Posted
On 4/15/2021 at 9:41 PM, Duramax3oh said:

Thank you. Set at full 2.0” lift for the 3.0 diesel. I also added a rear block to maintain about 1.0-1.5” rake. It surprisingly looks level but there’s still a rake and I have some wood and deer corn in the back. I have not noticed any sag yet

What size rear block did you use?

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 3/31/2022 at 9:49 AM, Gocats96 said:

@Christopher Biggers

Did you ever find an answer to this?

I have not seen an answer for what the physical differences between the two 6112 part numbers. However, I went ahead and ordered the 47-309524 back in March and may some day receive them. I hear some are finally starting to come in from the nation wide backorder. Has anyone received 6112s recently? When did you order them and who did you order from?

 

My overall build plan for my 2020 RST Duramax is to use the 47-309524 set on the middle clip with the Bilstein control arms and trail boss axels up front. Out back 2" block with 5100s. My original GY Fortitude HTs were shot at 42k so just replaced them with General Grabber ATXs 275/70R18(SL). Eventually when everything is installed, I will get measurements and pictures posted.

  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I really like my rough country 2" leveling struts and rough country v2 rear shocks with 1" blocks on my 2013 sierra. I haven't noticed any drop(although i didnt measure).

I've got a 2019 Sierra now and the stock ride isnt near as nice. I was looking to do the same upgrade, but this thread has me questioning it. Is it really worth the added cost?

Edited by Rwayne

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...