Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 9/19/2020 at 12:36 PM, 2018GMC said:

I’m not excited to replace mine when the time comes.

I will prob go for a Walmart / sams AGM. Maybe north star if I feel like spending that much.

Has optima improved since the mid 2000’s? I know when they moved production out of the USA people complained the batteries weren’t as good and didn’t last as long.

What model and brand of replacement battery did you install?

Any odd behavior with dying battery or it just wouldn’t start?

I replaced my Toyota 4R with a Red Optimal in 2012 and my 2003 Corvette with a Red Optima and have had 0 problems.  Since I dont drive the vette a lot, the old batts would drain down a lot,.  Both have been great.

Edited by AE1M
Add more info
Posted

30 miles from home on our first date night in months after having our firstborn, factory battery decided it didn't want my wife and I to get home. No warning, no sluggish starts or previous jumps. Went from no issues to completely dead. Fortunately my father-in-law was free and drove me to Autozone where I picked up an Odyssey 48-720T (AGM). Went with an Odyssey in my 1997 Wrangler and had zero issues in 6 years with it, figured I'd go with something I can trust. Got 4 years out of the factory battery. Was a pain to do it in the dark by the time we waited for him to pick us up, run me to Autozone, grab my tools, then get back to the truck...but it wasn't crazy hard to do. Helps I'm 6'4" though and could reach everything, would have had to stand on the tire otherwise. I've heard people say they put all the bars in the way to prevent theft, are stolen batteries still a thing?!?

Posted
On 9/19/2020 at 12:36 PM, 2018GMC said:

I’m not excited to replace mine when the time comes.

I will prob go for a Walmart / sams AGM. Maybe north star if I feel like spending that much.

Has optima improved since the mid 2000’s? I know when they moved production out of the USA people complained the batteries weren’t as good and didn’t last as long.

What model and brand of replacement battery did you install?

Any odd behavior with dying battery or it just wouldn’t start?

So, I used whatever Napa had.  I paid $147 out the door for an AGM.  Keep in mind I get a good guy discount since I used to work for a Cadillac dealer, so we used them a lot.  As far as Optima batteries go, I have heard the same complaints you are hearing.  I didn’t want to spend the ridiculous money for a Chinese battery.  I was having AC issues with my old battery.  My driver’s side wasn’t cooling as well as my passenger side.  I had an active body code for low voltage to the HVAV system, so after about 2 years of that battery, I felt it was time to replace it.  Slapped the new one in, cleared the body codes, and I’m back cool again.  My buddy at Cadillac swears up and down that I didn’t have to remove the coolant tank, but I did it anyway.  It made the job easier.

Posted
So, I used whatever Napa had.  I paid $147 out the door for an AGM.  Keep in mind I get a good guy discount since I used to work for a Cadillac dealer, so we used them a lot.  As far as Optima batteries go, I have heard the same complaints you are hearing.  I didn’t want to spend the ridiculous money for a Chinese battery.  I was having AC issues with my old battery.  My driver’s side wasn’t cooling as well as my passenger side.  I had an active body code for low voltage to the HVAV system, so after about 2 years of that battery, I felt it was time to replace it.  Slapped the new one in, cleared the body codes, and I’m back cool again.  My buddy at Cadillac swears up and down that I didn’t have to remove the coolant tank, but I did it anyway.  It made the job easier.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Crazy what issues can creep up with a weak battery on these trucks.
Posted

Changed my  battery last night at Advanced and my power steering went out. Had to get a tow to the dealer, little frustrating. 

Posted

I've never had much luck with factory batteries, not sue why. I've had them last 2, 3, and 4 years. all the replacements from sams club or advance auto have lasted a minimum of 7 years. The one I have in my beater is from farm and fleet and is 9 years old.

Posted
17 hours ago, BSherrod said:

Changed my  battery last night at Advanced and my power steering went out. Had to get a tow to the dealer, little frustrating. 

Did you find the cause?  Hard to imagine a batt change would cause that

Posted
On 9/19/2020 at 12:05 PM, Rossum Possum said:

For those DIYers...I know join the club of those who have replaced the old flooded cell battery.  I also believe the engineers at GM to be sadistic.  I’ve never had to remove so much crap just to be able to remove a battery, for Fox Creek...On the bright side, I did spring for an AGM, and it is smaller in size :)   

A34425EB-C467-4925-9E16-977082441F89.jpeg

Do you lose any settings in the truck after disconnecting battery?  Radio stations, memories, etc...  Window sync etc?

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/19/2020 at 12:05 PM, Rossum Possum said:

For those DIYers...I know join the club of those who have replaced the old flooded cell battery.  I also believe the engineers at GM to be sadistic.  I’ve never had to remove so much crap just to be able to remove a battery, for Fox Creek...On the bright side, I did spring for an AGM, and it is smaller in size :)   

A34425EB-C467-4925-9E16-977082441F89.jpeg

I did this today and installed an H7 Diehard AGM from Advanced, about $200.  I hunt in way northern NH and need a reliable batt when I need to start in really cold temps in a field in the woods!  The best video I found was here for the job.  My only difference was to remove the bracket center support instead of fighting with it.  The hardest part was removing the back bolt holding down the coolant reservoir.   It looked like too much to fight with a 50lb battery, used a bungie cord to hold it out of the way to remove and install. Total time was about 40mins including cleaning the tray etc...  No settings at all were lost, compass came on with the CAL message but it cleared itself after about 5 mins of driving.  Waiting for the temperature display to catch up, started with 32 deg when it was about 70 out.  The old batt might still be enough to start the truck, so I may mount it in the tray on the drivers side and just charge it occasionally to jump start myself.  Need to see what accessory I need, the existing empty tray doesn't have provision for the hold down clamp or I may just strap it there.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
19 hours ago, AE1M said:

Did you find the cause?  Hard to imagine a batt change would cause that

Turns out the kid at Advanced blew a fuse putting the battery in, $345 later I’m back on the road . 

Posted
On 9/28/2020 at 8:25 PM, AE1M said:

Do you lose any settings in the truck after disconnecting battery?  Radio stations, memories, etc...  Window sync etc?

I did not.  The only thing that had to reset was the external temperature.  It showed 32 at first, but then it caught up.

Posted

There is a design issue on these vehicles with the amount of stress the negative battery cable places on the post. I got 4 years out of the original and replaced with a AGM just over 1 year ago. Again same negative battery post failure. The bending moment on the post induced by the negative cable fatigue cracks the post inside the battery. The plastic housing holds everything together and you will pull your hair out when temps and moisture cause the air gap in the cracked post to create resistance build up losing voltage and amp draw. Both times mine exhibited starting issues given the amount of amps you need to turn the motor over. Easy way to tell if your post has failed internally is to put a 10mm socket and wrench on the nut of the negative cable and tighten the nut only placing a small amount of torque on the post while someone is trying to start the engine. The post will generally fail on the right side and propagate toward the driver side given the bending moment of the unsupported cable length. There is a hole in the trough above the cable that I used to use a zip tie to support the cable and reduce the stress on the post. You guys may want to do that first chance you get. Hope this helps those experiencing electrical issues that tend to come and go until it finally cracks far enough to put you dead in the water. Regards!

  • Like 1
Posted

Also the battery can be removed without taking the coolant tank out. Remove the fender brace and the lower support that mounts to the battery tray. Then rotate the front of the battery toward the driver side and lift it out. Pretty straight forward. The first time I swapped batteries I removed the tank. Then tried it this way the 2nd time without much issue. However, YMMV.

Posted
On 9/29/2020 at 12:34 PM, BSherrod said:

Turns out the kid at Advanced blew a fuse putting the battery in, $345 later I’m back on the road . 

I bought my battery at Advanced and they told me it comes up on their computer that they are not allowed to replace them. Guy told me it requires "professional" to install it on these trucks. Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...