Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
40 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

The AutoSync programmer does not work on T1 trucks and his programming is limited to BCM stuff.  So, he can't disable autostop or turn off AFM.

 

 

The programmer does work on T1s but for the AFM/Autostop, you're correct.  It can still remove the speed limiter however.  That, along with some other things like remote window UP, fog lights with brights, fog lights with normal headlights on automagically...... The route I'm going to take.

Posted
5 minutes ago, Rob Mugs said:

The programmer does work on T1s but for the AFM/Autostop, you're correct.  It can still remove the speed limiter however.  That, along with some other things like remote window UP, fog lights with brights, fog lights with normal headlights on automagically...... The route I'm going to take.

The AutoSync does not work.  The flash tool to update the BCM with all the changes you are describing does work.  That said, they are virtually the same thing I'm told. 😁

Posted
19 hours ago, Rob Mugs said:

Look into White Auto Media.  He's on back order right now but IMHO, it's a much better option since the BCM is programmed instead of a piggyback device.  @GTPprix is the owner.  Seems like a great guy

 

EDIT:

Seems like he has the programmer back in stock.  Now... to convince the wife this is something I NEED

 

Does Chris have a programmer to buy and have, or is it still on a rent the programmer, down load the desired programing, load into truck and return programming device, type of thing?

Posted (edited)

You now purchase the programmer for 100 bucks and it's yours for life which is pretty sweet.  I also asked him if I wanted to make an adjustment 2 weeks or so because I didn't like how it behaved and that would be included.  I'm not sure if there would be an EOL on support for it but it sounds like he's being pretty open to make adjustments when needed

Edited by Rob Mugs
Posted
Those of you with the Pulsar, did you mount the device to the top of the airbox as instructions state or somewhere else?  It seems to me the better place would be on the vertical support in the cavity behind the headlight.  Also, does the OEM harness plug just kind of hang loosely under the Pulsar one once it replaces the OEM plug on the side of the airbox?

That’s exactly where I mounted mine.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIMG_8122.jpg
Posted
1 hour ago, Rob Mugs said:

You now purchase the programmer for 100 bucks and it's yours for life which is pretty sweet.  I also asked him if I wanted to make an adjustment 2 weeks or so because I didn't like how it behaved and that would be included.  I'm not sure if there would be an EOL on support for it but it sounds like he's being pretty open to make adjustments when needed

Well if Chris would have had a programmer to have back when I probably would have went with him.  I've dealt with him for many years, and is a great guy.  I don't seem to have the same man crush as you do though.  lol.  I also agree with lapoolboy, the Pulsar LT looks hideous under the hood.  

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
8 hours ago, SILVER SLED said:

Well if Chris would have had a programmer to have back when I probably would have went with him.  I've dealt with him for many years, and is a great guy.  I don't seem to have the same man crush as you do though.  lol.  I also agree with lapoolboy, the Pulsar LT looks hideous under the hood.  

Sounds like you two have been dating a long time.  Jokes aside, he seems honest but I'm entirely new to this.  Just went ahead and dropped the coin on it.  Will be giving an honest review

Posted
8 hours ago, Rob Mugs said:

Sounds like you two have been dating a long time.  Jokes aside, he seems honest but I'm entirely new to this.  Just went ahead and dropped the coin on it.  Will be giving an honest review

Ha.  We've been dating since about 2006.  He worked with a great tuner at Vector Motorsports by the name of Kirk Deerhammer(sp) who has apparently fallen of the face of the earth.  

Posted
1 hour ago, SILVER SLED said:

Ha.  We've been dating since about 2006.  He worked with a great tuner at Vector Motorsports by the name of Kirk Deerhammer(sp) who has apparently fallen of the face of the earth.  

Nice!  My first "tuning" experience was on an 870 ECM (1985 Trans Am) ... moved up to HP Tuners on my 2000 Trans Am and then had kids etc... so it was a plain jane DD for a few years.

 

Let us all know when you go to pop the question!?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Mine finally came in the mail today but of course I’m at work. Can’t wait to get home tomorrow and install. I’m tired of hearing the dfm and the auto stop feature.  I was worried that it was never going to come because of the website I ordered from but it did and I got it for a great price. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Sorry thought this may help double posted you guys

Edited by Robby James
Double post
Posted
8 minutes ago, Thejet07 said:

So anyone get a cel from the pulsar Lt?

No, I have installed and uninstalled mine 3x now no CEL as of yet.

I have ran premium and regular unleaded with it installed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...