Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

And I called (801) 476-3343

Either way I think they all lead to powerteq and give you an option to select a company (I chose edge).

I asked who makes the pulsar and didn’t get an answer idk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted

I emailed them yesterday and got a email and call from them today. They gave me a different number to call them on, the guy was outstanding to talk to and work with. They said Holley will be sending me a RMA on Monday, I appreciated they didn't try to talk me into swapping for another. I am spooked :) and can't afford to have problems with my truck.

Maybe later when things settle down some

Tom

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 11/18/2020 at 1:43 PM, SILVER SLED said:

I got mine from Diablo.  No difference I'm sure.  Worked great.  Only odd thing is I can't shut off start/stop with dash switch when unit is hooked up and set to not disable it. I can disable it through the unit as designed though.    

Mine does the samething maybe a update will fix it? Only other thing I don’t like is the the throttle sensitivity settings them seem to make my truck shift funny kinda like a slip on shift out in like 7-10 gears when just cruising around? Anyone else notice this? 2020 trail boss custom 6.2 (also my truck seems to be ok with changing sensitivity on the fly as long as you let off on the throttle)

Edited by bjr2020 6.2
Posted
Mine does the samething maybe a update will fix it? Only other thing I don’t like is the the throttle sensitivity settings them seem to make my truck shift funny kinda like a skip in like 7-10 gears when just cruising around? Anyone else notice this? 2020 trail boss custom 6.2 (also my truck seems to be ok with changing sensitivity on the fly as long as you let off on the throttle)

 

Mine drove fine, no gear skip issues.

 

Also, this device can disable auto start/stop, why would you not want to use that feature?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Posted
1 minute ago, Jav_eee said:

 


Mine drove fine, no gear skip issues.

Also, you bought this to disable auto start/stop, why would you want to enable it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Sorry didn’t proof read lol meant kinda like a slip on shift out of them gears if you watch the tach you can see it and hear it in the exhaust note. Mine has a muffler delete. I meant also with the pulsar say auto start stop is left on you loose the option to turn it off with the switch. If I set the pulsar to turn it off the light goes out and I get a message on start up it’s disabled. I just leave it off on the pulsar as I don’t like the feature anyway. I was just acknowledging mine as same problem when pulsar is plugged in. 

Posted

I haven't had a gear skip issue but I feel like I do get over revs occasionally. Still trying to diagnose this one, feels like it is hunting at times but overall very happy with the Pulsar. I called Range last week to figure out why my USB to ODBII cable wasn't working and was advised that it only works with the Holley cable, part #98105. If you talk to them and give them your serial number they can tell you if there is an update for your module.  

Posted
3 hours ago, bjr2020 6.2 said:

Mine does the samething maybe a update will fix it? Only other thing I don’t like is the the throttle sensitivity settings them seem to make my truck shift funny kinda like a slip on shift out in like 7-10 gears when just cruising around? Anyone else notice this? 2020 trail boss custom 6.2 (also my truck seems to be ok with changing sensitivity on the fly as long as you let off on the throttle)

I called Diablo and they said the stop/start can not be turned off with the device installed.  I only changed the throttle sensitivity once and didn’t like it so I went back to stock.  The truck is plenty responsive stock.  

Posted
13 minutes ago, RRonin said:

I haven't had a gear skip issue but I feel like I do get over revs occasionally. Still trying to diagnose this one, feels like it is hunting at times but overall very happy with the Pulsar. I called Range last week to figure out why my USB to ODBII cable wasn't working and was advised that it only works with the Holley cable, part #98105. If you talk to them and give them your serial number they can tell you if there is an update for your module.  

Isn’t that nice lol I ordered a cable but it’s not a Holley cable. Also I didn’t mean skip I meant slip. You can hear it in the exhaust note the shift in like 7-10 isn’t as quick as it is with stock sensitivity settings. Seems to have alil torque converter slip in upper gears on shift out is what I mean. But all and all I’m happy with the pulsar.

Posted
5 minutes ago, SILVER SLED said:

I called Diablo and they said the stop/start can not be turned off with the device installed.  I only changed the throttle sensitivity once and didn’t like it so I went back to stock.  The truck is plenty responsive stock.  

I like the feel better on like 30% sensitivity but don’t like the upper shifts. Also I agree the 6.2 has better stock throttle response then the 5.3 anyway so it’s tolerable stock. 

Posted
4 hours ago, Jav_eee said:

 

 

 

Also, this device can disable auto start/stop, why would you not want to use that feature?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I don’t mind the engine shutting off at times to save gas.  Like sitting at a long light.  So what I do now when I want start/stop off, I put it in tow haul mode, that inhibits start/stop. 

Posted
1 hour ago, RRonin said:

I haven't had a gear skip issue but I feel like I do get over revs occasionally. Still trying to diagnose this one, feels like it is hunting at times but overall very happy with the Pulsar. I called Range last week to figure out why my USB to ODBII cable wasn't working and was advised that it only works with the Holley cable, part #98105. If you talk to them and give them your serial number they can tell you if there is an update for your module.  

What do you mean by over rev’s? Could be what I’m talking about that’s my issue as well.

Posted
54 minutes ago, bjr2020 6.2 said:

What do you mean by over rev’s? Could be what I’m talking about that’s my issue as well.

Hard to explain it but let's say you driving at a constant speed and you see and hear the rpms go up maybe 500 but I don't feel a difference in acceleration. My truck is new to me and only has 2k miles so this may just be a quirk especially after the dfm disable. I really need to log more miles. I also discovered today that my truck has a Pedal Commander. I may take this out of the equation to see how the truck behaves. 

Posted
22 minutes ago, RRonin said:

Hard to explain it but let's say you driving at a constant speed and you see and hear the rpms go up maybe 500 but I don't feel a difference in acceleration. My truck is new to me and only has 2k miles so this may just be a quirk especially after the dfm disable. I really need to log more miles. I also discovered today that my truck has a Pedal Commander. I may take this out of the equation to see how the truck behaves. 

Yea I think it’s the throttle sensitivity or pedal commander in your case causing the issue. Mine when I play with the sensitivity it has flare ups shifting like your speaking of. When I run stock sensitivity it goes back to normal. Keep me posted plz on how you make out. Hopefully maybe the pulsar will have a update to fix the issues. Even though sounds like some work ok. Mines a 6.2 10 speed so maybe that’s the issue.

Posted

Just so everyone realizes..... All the throttle sensitivity adjustment does is change the curve on how much the throttle body is open vs pedal input.  It makes it "feel" more responsive at part throttle but it is much harder to modulate the power.  If you have the sensitivity turned up you will notice a nice surge of power at part throttle but it will feel flat when you step into it more because the throttle body is already open more than it normally would be.  I prefer to leave mine at the stock setting and control it with my foot.

 

-Eli

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Tjeli said:

Just so everyone realizes..... All the throttle sensitivity adjustment does is change the curve on how much the throttle body is open vs pedal input.  It makes it "feel" more responsive at part throttle but it is much harder to modulate the power.  If you have the sensitivity turned up you will notice a nice surge of power at part throttle but it will feel flat when you step into it more because the throttle body is already open more than it normally would be.  I prefer to leave mine at the stock setting and control it with my foot.

 

-Eli

Yup I’m def into what your saying your 100% right. It will give you a dead peddle almost farther in the throttle. Your right 6.2 feels fine stock but if you turn up the sensitivity check out like your 7-10 shift out watch your tach and listen see if it causes what seems to be alittle slip almost like 100-200rpm. I have a muffler delete on mine and you can feel and hear something is just alil off. Thinking maybe the tranny doesn’t agree with the sensitivity change or settings. Would like other input if other ppl notice this? Maybe I’m just to picky? Lol maybe a update will fix it hard saying.

Edited by bjr2020 6.2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 795 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...