Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Found my self in an 'out of luck' situation this week where a friend of mine parked a little too far off the side of the road and couldn't get out. Had I had a chain or tow strap would have taken about 30 seconds to nudge them out but instead had to call for a tow.  I now decided having some kind of recovery chain or strap isn't a bad idea to keep in the truck at all times, weather it's for getting someone else out or should I ever need it.  My question is what does everyone recommend? This isn't meant to be for hard core buried to the frame recovery but just something that can get a vehicle back on the road or out of a snow bank, etc..  My first thought was chain but that seems like it could potentially be dangerous should it break, so now looking into straps.

 

I found this one on Amazon which includes a 20' strap and shackle hitch receiver for a decent price but curious for any other recommendations or what others may be using.

Edited by reardiff
Posted
17 minutes ago, reardiff said:

Found my self in an 'out of luck' situation this week where a friend of mine parked a little too far off the side of the road and couldn't get out. Had I had a chain or tow strap would have taken about 30 seconds to nudge them out but instead had to call for a tow.  I now decided having some kind of recovery chain or strap isn't a bad idea to keep in the truck at all times, weather it's for getting someone else out or should I ever need it.  My question is what does everyone recommend? This isn't meant to be for hard core buried to the frame recovery but just something that can get a vehicle back on the road or out of a snow bank, etc..  My first thought was chain but that seems like it could potentially be dangerous should it break, so now looking into straps.

 

I found this one on Amazon which includes a 20' strap and shackle hitch receiver for a decent price but curious for any other recommendations or what others may be using.

Reardiff......good idea in my opinion. I carry a couple 6000# tow straps that I just store in my back under seat storage area. Pretty simple but have used it several times to help others out. Got mine at Harbor Freight, actually have (2) just in case I need more length, as you can loop them together. If you have a rear hitch ball, very easy to put the loop over the ball & pull them out. They sell a 20' or 30'

6000 Lb. Capacity 2 In. X 20 Ft. Recovery Strap

Posted

For the loops is is safe to put hooks or clevis on it to help get a hold on the other vehicle? Or is that an accident waiting to happen?  I normally don't have a ball hitch on which is why I was thinking about getting the shackle hitch receiver, but just one more thing to keep under the back seat too.

Posted (edited)

ARB 4x4 Accessories ARB705LB Orange 30' x 2 3/8" Snatch Strap Recovery, 1 Pack

I haven't bought one in over 40 years, but I still carry my 3" Snatch um Strap that has been used many times.  The stretchability of Nylon makes it a beast when yanking someone out who is really buried.  Two years ago I snatched a fully loaded full sized U Haul box truck that had the rear duels buried in clay.  It took about 12 feet of slack to make the truck move, but it came out.  They are so smooth to use.  I'm talking 12 feet of slack taking off at full throttle with a 2015 Denali 6.2.

 

DO NOT use chain or metal hooks on either end of one.  They can become bullets.

Edited by 2speedbump
Posted

I saw those Rhino USA ones but passed on them because I didn't like the fact that the mount had four holes in it. Maybe it's just me but it seemed weaker because of that and being hollow tubing.

I just got a 2017 Silverado and I purchased these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X23L66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SmittyBilt -  It's a 30' 2" strap kit for about $80.  I also got two 10' slings for options for connecting the strap to a vehicle. 

Mainly, I got them in case I was the one who needed help. (and also maybe to help others)

 

 

 

Posted
10 hours ago, rav3 said:

Reardiff......good idea in my opinion. I carry a couple 6000# tow straps that I just store in my back under seat storage area. Pretty simple but have used it several times to help others out. Got mine at Harbor Freight, actually have (2) just in case I need more length, as you can loop them together. If you have a rear hitch ball, very easy to put the loop over the ball & pull them out. They sell a 20' or 30'

6000 Lb. Capacity 2 In. X 20 Ft. Recovery Strap

Never do that, that is recovery 101 on what not to do, that ball isn't made for that and if it snaps is now a deadly projectile... If you have 2" loop ends (most do) you can put them in the receiver hitch and run the pin through that. Now if you yank hard enough it can bend and get the pin stuck but it would take a hard pull. Number 1 is of course having arear D-ring shackle, that is ideal. 

 

Tyler

Posted
1 hour ago, amxguy1970 said:

Never do that, that is recovery 101 on what not to do, that ball isn't made for that and if it snaps is now a deadly projectile... If you have 2" loop ends (most do) you can put them in the receiver hitch and run the pin through that. Now if you yank hard enough it can bend and get the pin stuck but it would take a hard pull. Number 1 is of course having arear D-ring shackle, that is ideal. 

 

Tyler

Humm, good point. I never thought of that. It's a 2" ball with 3/4" thread, so only good for about 3500#'s. What are the tow hooks up front rated for?

Posted
20 hours ago, 2speedbump said:

ARB 4x4 Accessories ARB705LB Orange 30' x 2 3/8" Snatch Strap Recovery, 1 Pack

I haven't bought one in over 40 years, but I still carry my 3" Snatch um Strap that has been used many times.  The stretchability of Nylon makes it a beast when yanking someone out who is really buried.  Two years ago I snatched a fully loaded full sized U Haul box truck that had the rear duels buried in clay.  It took about 12 feet of slack to make the truck move, but it came out.  They are so smooth to use.  I'm talking 12 feet of slack taking off at full throttle with a 2015 Denali 6.2.

 

DO NOT use chain or metal hooks on either end of one.  They can become bullets.

Just ordered one. Been wanting one for awhile and I've heard numerous people swear by these since it has some elasticity. Thanks for the recommendation!

Posted

I myself use a Rhino USA recovery strap its a 3in good up to 30k lbs and I have soft shackels and D-rings in the truck and im also buying a kenetic rope to keep in the truck

Posted (edited)

Bubba rope.  That's a real thing, and it works good.  

 

(It has nothing to do with NooseCar PR stunts or Bubba Wallace-Smollett, or fake FBI investigations at Talladega.)  

Edited by MaverickZ71
Posted

I agree with a number of the earlier recommendations... one thing you could throw in is https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-15104-05-Kinetic-Recovery/dp/B01NBM9ZFJ

This is good for up to 7500lbs...and is fully synthetic, without any metal that can become a dangerous projectile....Additionally, being a synthetic rope, the rope itself doesn't become a dangerous whipping instrument, should it snap... the kinetic energy is dumped quickly...so it shouldn't require a weighted blanket on the strap to protect others...

 

Having said that... I just moved from having an 07 Silverado Classis and a 2011 Jeep JK to a 2020 Silverado LT Z71...to combine all the functions and reduce 'the herd'... so since I no longer have my offroad/winch/etc setup, I am looking at what I need to put in the new recovery bag... I have both the recovery/tow strap from Harbor Freight/Tractor Supply and a replacement 12K synthetic winch rope that I could use... the winch rope does have the metal retainer support loops in each end and is long...I was wondering if that could be used on the tow hooks on the front, or a hitch insert with a hook on the rear... and still be safe... if needed....

 

 

Posted

I have a Bubba rope as well as a yellow snatch strap in my truck. As well as a couple soft shackles 
 

i avoid chains cause when they break they tend to go flying around.  I’ve seen pieces of chain fly through windshields and tailgates. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...