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Hey y'all, I know this has been talked about a bunch but I just for some reason can't find the info I'm after. I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500, with the 5.3 and 4l60e, its a non z71 but with the same gear ratio I believe. Now I have a couple questions. 1. I want to swap to a 6.0 (maybe with some mods like a small cam, headers, maybe an intake), the 5.3 in the truck has been rebuilt but was used as a work truck and is "tired" so to say. I know a lot of people have said that to make the simplest "plug-and-play" setup to grab a 6.0 from 04-06(07 classic?) and it will run on the stock 5.3 tune (but recommend getting it retuned) I know that you can use the stock 4l60e but put some money into it to make it be able to hold the power and torque of a 6.0. I also know that to swap to a 4l80e trans it would require a crossmember and wiring at least, along with a different driveshaft, and since its 4x4, possible a different transfer case? So answering my own question with confirmation from someone, I could use a 04-06(07 classic?) 6.0 and just do a slight build on the stock 4l60e (which is currently slipping hoping just torque converter)? So on to my next question, I want to swap a z71 axle under the truck rather than the stock open diff. Would it be easier to swap out just the diff or to swap the whole axle? Is there any wiring for the limited slip/locking diff in the z71 axle? And is there a difference in the front diff? Also the truck currently is on 33" tires, and I plan to go to 35"s so should I just wait and have the truck regeared with an aftermarket limited slip or locker? And one final question for the interior guys out there. I hate the 99-02 steering wheel. I wanna swap to a 03-06 steering wheel. I know that the airbag itself will fit if I grab it off a 03-04 HD truck because its single stage, but what about the splines on the steering shaft? are those the same as the 99-02 1500 trucks? Or do I still have to swap that out for a newer steering shaft? Also how bad is it to run heated leather seats in these trucks that didn't have them from factory? I'm doing a mini restobuild on the truck but still need it to be a daily driver. Thanks for any input guys!!!
I just put a new valve body in my 2006 Silverado with new accumulator pistons and solenoid’s and now that I have it all put together I went to drive it and it seems like it is stuck in a high gear like second or third and it has reverse has anyone had this issue before, is there some thing to reset like a transmission module?
I recently rebuilt the 4l60e on my 2000 S10 4.3L 2WD.
It was slipping out of 4th while in D so I drove it for a week in 3. Eventually, 3rd gear was slipping, especially when warmed up, so i decided to rebuild.
I got a vacuum tested reman valve body from Shift Rite Transmission shop with the Sonnax TCC Isolator Sleeve installed. It included all new solenoids. I also got a reman pump (old pump was scored up inside) from same shop with upgraded Sonnax boost valve. I installed pinless accumulators and new Transgo seperator plate with new gaskets and new checkballs. I upgraded to Sonnax smart shell and installed Sonnax Heavy Duty 3-4 backing plate with appropriate steels and frictions. All new steels and all new HE frictions - All clearances (including input shaft endplay) within spec checked 3+ times. New Borg Warner Dual Input Sprag. New reverse input drum. New 2-4 band. New 3rd accumulator checkball capsule tested for leaks. Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve installed over it. Standard Toledo rebuild kit for seals and gaskets, etc.. Also, new VSS and new Neutral Safety Switch. All new bushings. 400 grit emery cloth sanded journals on everything. Cleaned MAF sensor with cleaner.
I diagnosed a leaking input drum housing at the shaft and got a new one with new blue rubber pistons. Old 3-4 clutch pack was in decent shape from before but still replaced new. Air-tested new input drum cold and it did not leak where the shaft and housing meet. The plate stiffener was loose during disassembly so after rebuild delayed thud into Reverse was fixed.
When I bought the truck about 500 miles before the 3-4 went out the CLUSTR fuse was blown causing limp mode. After replacing the fuse truck drove fine until 3-4 problem. This leads me to believe that there is maybe some electrical issue, but no code was thrown until the slipping got terrible. It was solenoid A electrical (P0748), which I replaced and code disappeared. It came on again a few drives later and then disappeared the drive after that no changes on my part.
During test drive after rebuild it was SO damn nice and smooth at first I couldn't believe it. THEN after it warmed up all of the 3-4 slipping returned and I had to drive it home in 2nd.
I disconnected the MAF sensor and drove it until warm to rule that out. No luck there. Slightly firmer shifts, but did not help slipping.
I'm thinking now that possible causes could be: New solenoids - one may be bad, The input drum doesn't leak when cold, but does when hot, The 3rd accumulator check ball is bad when hot (I wasn't too sure of my vacuum test being accurate, which said it didn't leak, so I tested with 50/50 solvent and ATF and it did not leak while cold), or there is a bad wire somewhere considering the original P0748 code that came on and off 2 times.
ANY insight or ideas would are very appreciated. I've spent countless hours on this and is my 1st rebuild.
By Ian Mills
My recently purchased '05 Silverado 1500 has no problem shifting except between 2nd and 3rd.
On upshifts, it shifts out of second, then there is a small flare, then it tries to engage 3rd, then it flares again, then it engages 3rd. It takes about a second and it's very consistent.
On downshifts, it acts pretty similarly but it essentially acts like it's in neutral for .5 seconds. If I'm in 3rd or 4th and I depress the accelerator, revs out to 4k or 5k and then roughly engages 2nd.
Otherwise it's perfect. No slipping, normal shifts, normal idle behavior, reverse works well, no noises or smells. The transmission fluid level and color is fine.
I did some googling and narrowed it down to the computer, valve body, or solenoid which is basically not narrowed at all.
Has anyone else had and fixed this problem?
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