Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really wanted to give this a try and so far I would call it a success!

 

This is what I ordered:

  • P/N: 1AMRP03092 The Mirrors (from 1AAUTO.COM)
  • P/N: 84532268 The OEM Power Fold Switch (from any GM Parts store)
  • 22-20 Ga. Female GT 150 Series, Sealed #12191818 The Terminals (from amazon)

  • 22 AWG 6 conductor wire The Cable (from amazon)

  • And The heart of the project: a generic, Chinese, Cheap Power fold mirror controller (from amazon)

 

I WILL MOSLTY BE FOCUSING ON EXPLAINING THE DRIVERS SIDE FOR THIS POST, IT IS ALMOST THE SAME ON THE PASSANGER SIDE EXCEPT THAT SIDE HAS THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR. WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THIS SENSOR AND RECONNECT IT THE TRUCK WILL SHOW -40 DEGREES, TO RECALIBRATE THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR YOU MUST DRIVE GREATER THAN 65MPH FOR MORE THAN 1 MINUTE.

 

Now my goal for this project was just to be able to power fold my mirrors when I leave my truck and lock the doors, but also unfold when I unlock. I haven't received the interior switch just yet but I am planning on figuring out how to make it work!

 

I started with checking my door harnesses for any existing wire that would make this easier, my truck came from the factory with the wiring for power adjustable mirrors, heated mirrors, and the puddle/task lamps (which is odd because my OEM mirrors did not have the puddle nor task lamps. The new aftermarket mirrors did include the two lights and I was able to get both of them working.

 

Next I played with the generic power fold mirror controller to see how it worked. It has the inputs for lock and unlock as well as inputs for an interior switch. The power inputs are +12V,GND, and ACC. There is just one two-wire output to fold and unfold the mirrors by switching the polarity of the motors. The ACC Wire (Accessory) is required because the controller folds and unfolds the mirrors based on the lock status. When ACC is applied the lock and unlock folding feature is disabled.

 

Next I looked at the GM Upfitter Electrical pinout section to see what pins I was looking for on the Mirror. There are only two pins for the Power Fold Motor, 

  1.  Pin 3 Circuit 3412 Driver Mirror Motor Fold IN Control
  2.  Pin 15 Circuit 3411 Driver Mirror Motor Fold Out Control

 

I first ran the new wires from the drivers side fuse panel to each mirror going under the dash and through the door harness holes and boots. I then terminated two leads on each side right at the mirror, the cable I used had 6 wires but I just wanted extra for any future projects. The mirrors went on without a hitch, and I pulled the locking pin off the mirror connector and put in my new two terminated leads in there correct positions (polarity really doesn't matter because reversing the polarity will just make the motor turn the wrong way). 

 

Now we have two new power folding mirrors with our own DIY harnesses installed and ready to go.

 

Next is finding your power sources and Lock and Unlock signals. For the +12V I used literally any fuse on the drivers side (they are all always powered) and for the ACC I had to run a wire to the heated steering wheel fuse on the passenger side (The passenger side fuse box has both always on power and accessory power). For the lock and unlock signals I used Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector. These are for the drivers door lock actuator.

 

Finally with the ignition off so that ACC is not powered connect the Fold control wires from the controller to the mirrors and press the lock and unlock button to get the polarity correct. If its wrong just flip the two wires for that corresponding mirror.

 

If you have any questions just reply!

 

IMG_6519.thumb.jpg.c742a88c9f1f296aeb0c14cc94265143.jpg

 

IMG_6520.thumb.jpg.d53f73f5ceac785aa24cffbf32fefdb3.jpg

 

IMG_6521.thumb.jpg.ee566b4bf8dd598824b2b620ad9acf75.jpg

 

IMG_6522.thumb.jpg.f1a3dabb137a0b0bf54868122f29fc0e.jpg

 

IMG_6523.thumb.jpg.884515fa1791d43c00aaaa85d0a67581.jpg

 

IMG_6547.thumb.jpg.7ec4eb9eb67e24f67ce7693dc6772185.jpg

 

You can see the Generic controller tucked away inside the drivers side fuse panel.

 

 

  • Like 5
Posted (edited)

Not sure why the video wont play from phone...

Edited by Aaaaaaaayush
  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted
On 7/15/2021 at 5:49 PM, Aaaaaaaayush said:

I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really wanted to give this a try and so far I would call it a success!

 

This is what I ordered:

  • P/N: 1AMRP03092 The Mirrors (from 1AAUTO.COM)
  • P/N: 84532268 The OEM Power Fold Switch (from any GM Parts store)
  • 22-20 Ga. Female GT 150 Series, Sealed #12191818 The Terminals (from amazon)

  • 22 AWG 6 conductor wire The Cable (from amazon)

  • And The heart of the project: a generic, Chinese, Cheap Power fold mirror controller (from amazon)

 

I WILL MOSLTY BE FOCUSING ON EXPLAINING THE DRIVERS SIDE FOR THIS POST, IT IS ALMOST THE SAME ON THE PASSANGER SIDE EXCEPT THAT SIDE HAS THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR. WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THIS SENSOR AND RECONNECT IT THE TRUCK WILL SHOW -40 DEGREES, TO RECALIBRATE THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR YOU MUST DRIVE GREATER THAN 65MPH FOR MORE THAN 1 MINUTE.

 

Now my goal for this project was just to be able to power fold my mirrors when I leave my truck and lock the doors, but also unfold when I unlock. I haven't received the interior switch just yet but I am planning on figuring out how to make it work!

 

I started with checking my door harnesses for any existing wire that would make this easier, my truck came from the factory with the wiring for power adjustable mirrors, heated mirrors, and the puddle/task lamps (which is odd because my OEM mirrors did not have the puddle nor task lamps. The new aftermarket mirrors did include the two lights and I was able to get both of them working.

 

Next I played with the generic power fold mirror controller to see how it worked. It has the inputs for lock and unlock as well as inputs for an interior switch. The power inputs are +12V,GND, and ACC. There is just one two-wire output to fold and unfold the mirrors by switching the polarity of the motors. The ACC Wire (Accessory) is required because the controller folds and unfolds the mirrors based on the lock status. When ACC is applied the lock and unlock folding feature is disabled.

 

Next I looked at the GM Upfitter Electrical pinout section to see what pins I was looking for on the Mirror. There are only two pins for the Power Fold Motor, 

  1.  Pin 3 Circuit 3412 Driver Mirror Motor Fold IN Control
  2.  Pin 15 Circuit 3411 Driver Mirror Motor Fold Out Control

 

I first ran the new wires from the drivers side fuse panel to each mirror going under the dash and through the door harness holes and boots. I then terminated two leads on each side right at the mirror, the cable I used had 6 wires but I just wanted extra for any future projects. The mirrors went on without a hitch, and I pulled the locking pin off the mirror connector and put in my new two terminated leads in there correct positions (polarity really doesn't matter because reversing the polarity will just make the motor turn the wrong way). 

 

Now we have two new power folding mirrors with our own DIY harnesses installed and ready to go.

 

Next is finding your power sources and Lock and Unlock signals. For the +12V I used literally any fuse on the drivers side (they are all always powered) and for the ACC I had to run a wire to the heated steering wheel fuse on the passenger side (The passenger side fuse box has both always on power and accessory power). For the lock and unlock signals I used Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector. These are for the drivers door lock actuator.

 

Finally with the ignition off so that ACC is not powered connect the Fold control wires from the controller to the mirrors and press the lock and unlock button to get the polarity correct. If its wrong just flip the two wires for that corresponding mirror.

 

If you have any questions just reply!

 

IMG_6519.thumb.jpg.c742a88c9f1f296aeb0c14cc94265143.jpg

 

IMG_6520.thumb.jpg.d53f73f5ceac785aa24cffbf32fefdb3.jpg

 

IMG_6521.thumb.jpg.ee566b4bf8dd598824b2b620ad9acf75.jpg

 

IMG_6522.thumb.jpg.f1a3dabb137a0b0bf54868122f29fc0e.jpg

 

IMG_6523.thumb.jpg.884515fa1791d43c00aaaa85d0a67581.jpg

 

IMG_6547.thumb.jpg.7ec4eb9eb67e24f67ce7693dc6772185.jpg

 

You can see the Generic controller tucked away inside the drivers side fuse panel.

 

 

Hello, I know I’m really late to this. But I’m interested in knowing how it has held up? I have 2019 Chevy Silverado LT and I want to add the power fold mirrors.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/18/2022 at 11:27 AM, CJ89 said:

Hello, I know I’m really late to this. But I’m interested in knowing how it has held up? I have 2019 Chevy Silverado LT and I want to add the power fold mirrors.

It hasn’t had any problems except for when the mirrors were iced up I would just break them free and they would operate as normal

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Question, when you said that you tapped into the "Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector", is this purely a signal or is this enough to run a cylinder for lock on a tonneau cover.  I am trying to find where to tap in to power this and the instructions that came with it says a tan and blue wire in the door sil...... yeah.... thanks.... none of those carry a voltage signal on power lock cycling, so I am at a loss where to connect and saw this thread.

 

Posted
16 minutes ago, DasGoob said:

Question, when you said that you tapped into the "Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector", is this purely a signal or is this enough to run a cylinder for lock on a tonneau cover.  I am trying to find where to tap in to power this and the instructions that came with it says a tan and blue wire in the door sil...... yeah.... thanks.... none of those carry a voltage signal on power lock cycling, so I am at a loss where to connect and saw this thread.

 

Haha I wish I had somebody to give me this information back then… pin 2 and 4 are actually for the drivers door lock actuator, I used these for a lock actuator inside my bed tool box so I can lock and unlock the toolbox from my remote just as you are trying to do for the tonneau cover.

 

you can use the GM Upfitter or body builders manual to find these connectors and pin outs 


https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/20_Sierra_1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_2019JUN20.pdf

 

pg.413 is where the BCM connectors start.


good luck 👍🏽 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Ah this is the exact info I was looking for.  I will dig and find out where I can get this. 

 

I see.  You used it to actually have a separate switch for door lock/unlock in a different location.  Cool!

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but if I tap into the harness of the BCM, I need to use that as a signal for a relay, not to drive the actual lock/unlock solenoid.  I can use the signal to drive a relay with appropriate sized wiring for the current of a solenoid.  Unless I am reading this wrong. 

 

Good stuff what you did.  Thanks so much for the info.

Edited by DasGoob
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, DasGoob said:

Ah this is the exact info I was looking for.  I will dig and find out where I can get this. 

 

I see.  You used it to actually have a separate switch for door lock/unlock in a different location.  Cool!

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but if I tap into the harness of the BCM, I need to use that as a signal for a relay, not to drive the actual lock/unlock solenoid.  I can use the signal to drive a relay with appropriate sized wiring for the current of a solenoid.  Unless I am reading this wrong. 

 

Good stuff what you did.  Thanks so much for the info.

The pins from the BCM are going straight to the drivers door actuator(solenoid), these are the actual High Low signals for the actuator, no relay needed.

 

I did this so that I can unlock and lock my bed mount toolbox from the OEM truck remote key fob. 
 

The current from these actuation signals should be plenty for a second actuator in parallel, as it has worked perfectly fine for my toolbox as well as the power folding mirrors.

 

if the new actuator moves the wrong direction just reverse the polarity and it will move the other direction.

 

 

Edited by Aaaaaaaayush
  • Like 2
Posted

Yup!   You nailed it.  Dug into the schematics you sent and can see that these tiny wires carry the current for the solenoids in the doors, straight from the BCM, which blew me away.  I guess they are designed in a way that failed/grounded solenoids will not destroy the BCM.  Awesome.

 

Found the wires (Brown with Yellow and Grey), and they worked perfectly for what I needed.  50/50/90 and picked the wrong side but easy at the actuator to reverse polarity as you stated above.  Done and DONE!  Thank you so much for the info and the schematics.  So greatly appreciated!

Posted
6 hours ago, Steve-2019 said:

I would say some 🍻 would be appropriate for Aayush. 😉

Seriously! Or at least some likes on my posts 😂

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...