Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

 

My previous employer owns a highly modified 2010 ZL1 capable of 900 whp on race fuel. His brother, who was also an employer of mine.. owned a highly modified C6 Z06 capable of 570 NA whp. Neither know what brand of exhaust they have or the specs of the cam without looking at a spec sheet.

 

When you have money you tell people what you want, AND you get it.   

 

There a huge difference between bolting on some parts to highly capable sports cars

and 4-5x the oem power in a non performance oriented pickup

 

he’s also not just handing over the truck to a shop like your friends.

 

He doesn’t realize what 4-5x the power of stock means. Its not some engine trans/package you plop in.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, Blackwidow_Chevy said:

Your thoughts on OP are wrong and OP knows what he wants to get into and OP don’t have race buddy’s or need to tell them that when OP can get it and the truck is not a daily driver at all moves around about once a month I’ve been actually upgrading the truck for 2 yrs now and focused on other things for the truck not just HP. I never stated one thing I was trying to do or talked about my build list or what’s else the truck going to have or direction it’s going. Honestly in my shoes it’s just better for me to buy something ready cause I don’t have the time and Iam new to swap not new to performance parts and if I don’t have time why would I get into upgrade after upgrade after upgrade to build up the engine if I don’t have time now I won’t have just to repeat to reach something I can do now. Just looking for advice.

 Because we’ve been on forums for a long time and are not new to these dream builds that never happen. This is a textbook one. 1500-2000hp LS swap is hysterical. Like do you know you’ll be rebuIlding that thing after a few dozen pulls. Maybe 100-150 at most.
 

If it does happen. I’ll be the first to congratulate you. I’ll stop posting negative things in your thread. But you are asking totally different questions than people that actually understand what they are getting into.

 

people with open wallets that don’t have time to build the cars also don’t make forum posts on what parts to buy

 

good luck to you. If it actually happens i’ll be impressed

 

Edited by truckguy82
Posted
2 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

 Because we’ve been on forums for a long time and are not new to these dream builds that never happen. This is a textbook one. 1500-2000hp LS swap is hysterical. Like do you know you’ll be rebuIlding that thing after a few dozen pulls. Maybe 100-150 at most.
 

If it does happen. I’ll be the first to congratulate you. I’ll stop posting negative things in your thread. But you are asking totally different questions than people that actually understand what they are getting into.

 

people with open wallets that don’t have time to build the cars also don’t make forum posts on what parts to buy

 

good luck to you. If it actually happens i’ll be impresses

 

I don’t need to prove anything to anybody and I like staying informed your just sharing your failures here thats all.

Posted
Just now, Blackwidow_Chevy said:

I don’t need to prove anything to anybody and I like staying informed your just sharing your failures here thats all.

No you don’t, but I’ll paypal you $5 if you post a video doing a pull with 1500hp in your truck and hold up a sign saying “i’m an ****”

 

99.99% chance I will not be doing those things

Posted
47 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

 

There a huge difference between bolting on some parts to highly capable sports cars

and 4-5x the oem power in a non performance oriented pickup

 

he’s also not just handing over the truck to a shop like your friends.

 

He doesn’t realize what 4-5x the power of stock means. Its not some engine trans/package you plop in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do agree with you when you say it's A LOT of power for a truck. It could be a death trap and have to be driven as such, unless its tuned for safety along with suspension upgrades. But not 4-5 times the power, its a 1000 bhp which really isn't that hard to come by anymore. Stock Silverado's have run upwards 700-750 bhp with the right blower or turbo's. And that's with the stock drive line (which will fail sooner rather then later). 

 

You can modifiy the 6.2 block to hit 1000 🤔 Now if he said 2000 😬

 

 

Posted
12 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

 

Nope, It screams you're jealous OR your are assuming he's full of it and doesn't have the money to achieve his goals. In either case you responded incorrectly. He's looking for help, not judgement.

LOL ok I do think OP is full of it. You are the one bringing money into the argument, not me.

 

 

12 hours ago, Blackwidow_Chevy said:

I’ve been actually upgrading the truck for 2 yrs now and focused on other things for the truck not just HP.

All you have to show for it is an exhaust and some headlights lol

 

 

The fact that this guy wants an LS7 instead of doing an LT4 swap or something that is going to be in line with the generation vehicle he has just tells me that he reads to many truckin mags. 

Spoiler

Not that there is anything wrong with truckin mags but they make people do dumb stuff sometimes.

Anyways, OP my advice is to not get an LS and go find an LT and build that instead.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, shakenfake said:

LOL ok I do think OP is full of it. You are the one bringing money into the argument, not me.

 

 

All you have to show for it is an exhaust and some headlights lol

 

 

The fact that this guy wants an LS7 instead of doing an LT4 swap or something that is going to be in line with the generation vehicle he has just tells me that he reads to many truckin mags. 

  Reveal hidden contents

Not that there is anything wrong with truckin mags but they make people do dumb stuff sometimes.

Anyways, OP my advice is to not get an LS and go find an LT and build that instead.

 

I wasn't necessarily talking about you or anyone in particular when I said, "you guys" are thinking about money. That was overall what I took away from the thread, complexity of the project put aside.

 

You can put any engine/transmission in any vehicle as long as it fits, and you have money. Someone has LS swapped a Telsa, LS swaps are popular popular with jeep owners. I've seen a LS7 swapped into a Mazda Miata.

 

Magazines have nothing to do with what is, or isn't possible. Hell, I bet you can find a golf cart that's been LS swapped.

 

Also, you can no longer buy an ls7 crate engine. You can purchase a race spec'd block from gm and build an ls7 out of that, but that's it.  

Edited by M1ck3y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...