Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Back in May my 2015 Silverado dropped a lifter. I sent it to a shop and had a BTR stage 2 cam installed and since I've gotten it back it has had overheating problems. It had slight overheating problems before but never over 215 F-220 F. Fans do come on with the AC in low and once it starts getting warm they kick on in high. My issue now is its had a new water pump, temp sensor and thermostat put in and it runs 220F to 230F regularly. planning on buying a radiator before long and giving that a shot. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

truck.heic

Edited by 15SilveradoZ71
Posted

I can't view the video but my truck consistently runs at 210-214 degrees with a OEM thermostat. It will spike to 220-230 under heavy load and long full throttle runs and drop straight back down to normal.

 

You could drill a small hole in the thermostat to move more water instead of buying a lower temp thermostat or replacing the radiator.

  • Like 1
Posted

Did you have it "Tuned" after the cam upgrade, if not, it may be running a little lean, any O2 codes?

 

Posted

Thank you guys both for the reply! The shop that it was at which I ended up taking the truck from the shop after a two week cam job turned into a 3 month deal and every time I was told it would be ready another issue would come up and it would sit for weeks. The shop ended up putting a 195 thermostat in it. Which I swapped out for a 160 by mishimoto and I'm pretty sure it failed this afternoon cause my truck shot up to 260. The truck was tuned and does not have any codes. I went to the auto parts store and bought a radiator this afternoon which I am installing after my truck cools off. I am also putting the 195 thermostat back in. will update if that fixes issues. Appreciate the help and advice if anyone has any. 

Posted
5 hours ago, 15SilveradoZ71 said:

Thank you guys both for the reply! The shop that it was at which I ended up taking the truck from the shop after a two week cam job turned into a 3 month deal and every time I was told it would be ready another issue would come up and it would sit for weeks. The shop ended up putting a 195 thermostat in it. Which I swapped out for a 160 by mishimoto and I'm pretty sure it failed this afternoon cause my truck shot up to 260. The truck was tuned and does not have any codes. I went to the auto parts store and bought a radiator this afternoon which I am installing after my truck cools off. I am also putting the 195 thermostat back in. will update if that fixes issues. Appreciate the help and advice if anyone has any. 

Shot in the dark, there was just a post a couple of days ago where a member was having over heating problems.

 

He had taken the heads off to fix a failed lifter, and while he was putting it back together, put the head gaskets on in the wrong direction covering water passages causing the OH problem.

Posted (edited)

if buying a radiator, get the 6.2L or  the tow package option radiator, the 5.3 radiator sucks if you have power adders and a tune w/PE activated, it will overheat, because its made for 300hp V6.. it has no business in these 5.3 trucks if you tow or drive like an adrenaline junkie

 

and a katec 175 stat.   dont use the 160 stat. unless your boosted

 

ask your tuner to bring the fans to the 195 degrees on setting..  i've ran this set up in canada in winter, no issues.

 

 

 

 

Edited by pokismoki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...