Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello!

I recently purchased a 2024 GMC Sierra HD and unfortunately for myself, I live in NY. Looking to protect the truck and prevent rust. Recommendations on best undercoating out there would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Posted

I have used Fluid film on my last few trucks including my 2021 3500HD and my 2024. I use around 2 1/2 gallons per truck and concentrate on the inner rockers and the wheel arches in the bed. Both those areas have rubber plugs from the factory that will allow access to the inside of the panels. I do my doors with a spray can of Fluid film and insert the straw into the drain holes already in the front and rear. This way the pinch weld gets flooded but none of the components inside are coated. I allow it to drip for a day or so. There are enough holes to allow reach into almost every void on this truck. No need to drill anything. Given the time it takes and the amount of material needed if you could have it done professionally for 250-300 $ I would call that a good deal. A decent spray gun will run you 100$ along with the fact that the job is best done in the summer and not in November (unless you want to make a huge mess indoors) 

There are a number of similar products that will work well also, Woolwax comes to mind. 

 

Posted (edited)

Avoid Ziebart.  I could run an Instagram page of rotted out Ziebarted cars made up of mostly people who when yearly for re-sprays.  

 

Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown would be my choices.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted

AMSOIL's Heavy-Duty Metal Protector is another option.  It dries to a wax film and I have several customers that really like it. Easy to apply and about 5 cans will cover the average truck underside.   If interested let me know and I can quote to your door with the GM-Trucks discount.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.2260f9626edaaa82ea606d6f8114f5c0.jpeg

Posted
4 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

AMSOIL's Heavy-Duty Metal Protector is another option.  It dries to a wax film and I have several customers that really like it. Easy to apply and about 5 cans will cover the average truck underside.   If interested let me know and I can quote to your door with the GM-Trucks discount.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.2260f9626edaaa82ea606d6f8114f5c0.jpeg

 

 

Hmmm.  Sounds comprable to Boeshield?  I've used that before and I like that one but its $$$.    

  • Like 1
Posted

I just had my truck sprayed with Krown. First time using is it, it might not be the best but its cheap to have done. I figure anything is better then nothing

Posted

I did the majority of my truck over the summer but since I had some time a few weeks ago I dropped the spare and sprayed the bed floor, the winch and the metal wheel on the spare. It might be a little messier dropping the spare now but I have had to cut a few of these winches off the truck to get the spares down and that definitely aint any fun. 

Posted (edited)

Just dont use Zebart or any other hard rubberized coatings. They will do more harm than good. Krown or fluidfilm would be the way to go.

Eric O explains it pretty well. If you are near him maybe have him do your truck with fluidfilm.

 

Edited by nitro882
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Make sure you rust proof in inside of the frame rails. I have a 2009 gmc sierra with frame rot along the lower side of the box frame. So preventable, if nothing else pour chain saw oil or tranny fluid into every hole of the box frame.let it soak in 

Posted
On 11/13/2023 at 1:51 PM, 64BAwagon said:

I have used Fluid film on my last few trucks including my 2021 3500HD and my 2024. I use around 2 1/2 gallons per truck and concentrate on the inner rockers and the wheel arches in the bed. Both those areas have rubber plugs from the factory that will allow access to the inside of the panels. I do my doors with a spray can of Fluid film and insert the straw into the drain holes already in the front and rear. This way the pinch weld gets flooded but none of the components inside are coated. I allow it to drip for a day or so. There are enough holes to allow reach into almost every void on this truck. No need to drill anything. Given the time it takes and the amount of material needed if you could have it done professionally for 250-300 $ I would call that a good deal. A decent spray gun will run you 100$ along with the fact that the job is best done in the summer and not in November (unless you want to make a huge mess indoors) 

There are a number of similar products that will work well also, Woolwax comes to mind. 

 

What sprayer are you using?  Mine won't put out even close to that kind of volume. 

Posted
On 11/13/2023 at 2:22 PM, newdude said:

Avoid Ziebart.  I could run an Instagram page of rotted out Ziebarted cars made up of mostly people who when yearly for re-sprays.  

 

Fluid Film, Woolwax, Krown would be my choices.  

I had a poor experience with Ziebart on my new '16 HD. Did not spray where they said they would.  Had to remove one bed wheel liner to add wiring, nothing sprayed behind it !!  Took pix, and brought it back.  For my business, I have to carry liability ins. as contractor. So my broker sent me a Cert. of Ins.. for that Ziebart dealer, and I insisted I be in the bay while they did it right.

Now many rust-proofers do not want the liability to spray inside of doors , due to electronics. I talked to a Krown dealer near Albany, N.Y., that said no problem with that.  Ask before you choose a locaton.

Myself, like @64BAwagon, prefer a Lanolin Wax based product , non chemical product. Will not get into wiring problems.

Posted
18 hours ago, XY74 said:

What sprayer are you using?  Mine won't put out even close to that kind of volume. 

I purchased a few gal. of Woolwax, from the mfg. in Fall River, Ma. Also the spray gun and extension wands.

Posted
18 hours ago, XY74 said:

What sprayer are you using?  Mine won't put out even close to that kind of volume. 

What I also did, spraying in the doors and rockers, was to temp. plug up the weep drain holes for a week, with Plumbers Putty, to let the Woolwax creep into all the lap spotweld seams.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...