Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted
18 hours ago, Bikerjon said:

Has anyone actually installed a bigger tank?

Mine showed up earlier this week. I'll be installing it next month. It arrived on a long pallet and was wrapped in foam and strapped to the pallet. They called me before shipping to make sure I was ready to receive it.  I have the longer box, so I'm told I will need to fabricate a bracket.

 

I will report back later.

Posted

Tempted.  Following.  Imagining the shrieking from my wife when she sees how much it cost to fill the task.  My reply will simply be, "It lasts more then twice as long, so I'll be saving time by not going to the gas station every week. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Posting an install update:

 

About Me:

Mid-50’s desk jockey. Above average mechanical skill, mostly on motorcycles so I’m used to standing up and relatively easy access to things. I made the swap on the floor in my heated garage. Rear of truck on jack stands. Me on a creeper on my back - whole job done solo.

 

About the truck: 2022 Silverado 6.2 4WD Crew, 6.5’ box (the larger one) - this makes a difference.

 

The tank arrived very well wrapped on a long and skinny pallet. Save yourself a few bucks and have it delivered to a friend's business address. It was light enough to load manually with 2 people. My wife helped me get it out of the pickup when I brought it home.

 

It is a very high quality tank. The welds are great and all the mounts are clearly laid out with precision. The hardware kit is fairly complete (with a few exceptions noted below).

 

The install:

Removal of the factory tank was relatively painless. Get familiar with all the ways that the fuel and vent lines disconnect - there are at least three different varieties used and you can’t always see them (Thanks GM).

 

Relocating the hardware to the new tank was also relatively painless. A couple of trouble spots for me:

  1. I didn’t have a ¼ BSP Tap for the pressure control valve plug. BSP isn’t something you get at the hardware store in the US. Order one in advance or I used a ¼” NPT plug and tap and it seems to work fine.

  2. Swapping the float arm was painless, except it would be easy to break the plastic mount if you aren’t careful. Be ready to replace the sender if you break it. I did have a lot of trouble peening the end to hold the float/washer on the end - It isn’t soft wire and I didn’t have the tools to do it. A spot of JB weld saved the day.

  3. Also (not trouble): The sender gasket sent with the kit is thinner than the factory gasket. Spend the $12 to get a new one from your FLAPS. You don’t want to go back in there later.

 

Have some Red Rubber Grease, dielectric grease, blue Loctite, and thread sealant/Teflon handy.

 

Installing the tank:

It’s a VERY tight fit and will require rotation in addition to elevating it to get it into position. The barb on the right would probably be easier left off until the tank is in place and would buy you some room (it’s that tight), it will be easy to put in and connect after the tank is in. Watch the fill to ensure it clears the frame or it will get damaged.

I used a motorcycle center lift on wheels and it worked very well for the job, stopping ½ way (dropped on jack stands) to rotate and re adjust the balance point.

 

Re-connecting the three electrical plugs was painless - put dielectric grease on all plugs to help them glide together and keep out the dust. There are six hose connections to make as the tank goes up - most aren’t too bad. My fuel line interferes with the tank slightly - I have a pad in there now and I will keep an eye on it for wear. I may have to lower the tank and adjust it slightly later (may be related to the longer box?).

 

I put 5 gallons in today at home and added another 5 at the gas station - the range now shows ~60 miles, which is about ½ what it really might be.

 

I have not filled the tank yet - I need to get some miles on before I feel confident enough with my install to put that much in; I do not want to drop the tank full or have to find a place for 50 gallons of gas on short notice.

 

The directions are made for folks who do this kind of work and are familiar with the venting on a modern gas tank. I spent some time scratching my head to make sense on a few occasions - better to take your time and get it right the first time. They say it’s a 6 hour job - I’m guessing I spent ~12 hours on the job in total over three days. I think I could do it in about 7-8 hours the second time. A vehicle lift would have saved me some time,  body aches and make it easier to access the belly.

 

Additional notes for folks with the 6.5’ box (ignore if you have the shorter box the tank is “made” for):

  • No need to relocate the separator canister - it will fit in the stock position (I did it anyway as I didn’t know). Save yourself the time and trouble.

  • You will need a longer ⅝” vent hose to connect to the canister. I used ~7’ - know this before you put the tank in place! buy 8' and cut it at the cannister end once the tank is installed.

  • I used 2 18”x2"x3/8” steel plates and M10 grade 8 bolts to make the front bracket. I think it’s plenty sturdy.

  • Otherwise it’s essentially the same underneath.

 

I will post updates as I use the truck.

I will add a few photos too.

 

I'm not sure why my paste is bold. Sorry.

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

On the right is the 5/8" hose that caused a minor issue later because it was too short, also note the galvanized 1/4' NPT plug in the sender and the barb on the left of this photo (this is the problematic right barb you can probably install later):

20250316_154227.thumb.jpg.1166bd8ecc1832917051759cb7ff8fee.jpg

 

No-weld bracket:

20250317_181042.thumb.jpg.f1fa342b292d5346d82483725d7c9ffc.jpg

Edited by bruincounselor
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Size comparison:

20250315_143021.thumb.jpg.f406ac5b6c5a449531b16632eaf433e6.jpg

 

The website keeps flipping this upside down, I assure you I did this install in the traditional orientation :

20250317_181022.thumb.jpg.1a3e7fb9b74b346976b257a20bc199c4.jpg

Edited by bruincounselor
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

Weekend update on the install:

Everything seems to doing fine! I will likely fill the tank to the brim later this week; I added another 10 gallons without drama. It's weird watching the range monitor move at 1/2 speed. That is the only change that I notice - no wind noise, the tank fills at the same rate (no venting issues)without shutting off the pump handle, the tank is tucked up in the stock location - nobody will ever notice it.

 

The owner of Long Range America called me to talk about my experience. They are working on more weekend warrior friendly instructions, a kit with bracket for installs in the long box, and addressing the BSP tap issue. He seemed quite impressed that I was able to get the tank in working on the floor. I appreciate that this is a company that seems very customer oriented and wants to make purchasing and post purchase experiences as great as they can. All my communication with them has been top notch; prepurchase questions answered quickly, shipping conversation, and post installation.

 

Feel free to reach out in this thread if you have questions or concerns.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...