New bulletin/Campaign 6.2 L87

diyer2 · August 18, 2025

Still amazes me a company that has made millions of motors has this issue.

customboss · August 18, 2025

35 minutes ago, diyer2 said:

Still amazes me a company that has made millions of motors has this issue.

QC is not the suppliers job it’s the one who hired them.

revrnd · August 18, 2025

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

Still amazes me a company that has made millions of motors has this issue.

Well like someone said earlier, going to a oil viscosity in a truck just to get .01 mpg rules the day you get this. These vehicles aren't Malibus or Civics...

diyer2 · August 18, 2025

What ever, it still amazes me.

MrLeadFoot · August 18, 2025

10 hours ago, newdude said:

To be fair here...you lost the "assist" for the steering and brakes. Its no different when in a car/truck with hydraulic steering and vacuum brakes. Engine goes down you can still steer and stop, it just requires a lot more force input from you the driver.

Until you've been in such a situation like that, you have no idea what the experience is like. It's also easy to sit and analyze something after the fact, but when you are in the middle of a downhill turn in the dark in a storm, and everything up until that point was working fine (the engine, brakes and steering reacting to the lightest touch), and then suddenly everything loses all responsiveness, you simply don't have enough time to react. I can tell you that at that moment, navigating a 90 degree downhill turn in a storm at night becomes a critical manuever when you have no engine power and no electrical power to your steering or brakes. I'm just lucky everyone else on the road saw that I was suddenly going too wide, and too fast into that turn, and all stopped. Ironically, it was at that moment I realized just how good those Bridgestone Alenzas are in the rain, because I seriously thought I was going off the road, and down the mountainside. I can only imagine what might happen if an engine completely seized or self-destructed on a highway turn at night in the rain.

I will give GM kudos in this case, as they immediately initiated a "safety buyback" conversation with me. And, I did not start that dialog with them, they started it with me. But, that matter is beyond the context of this thread. If you hear a rod knock or feel the engine hesitating, etc. you have fair warning and ample time to coast to the side of the road. But, if you THINK you know what's going to happen if your engine suddenly seizes, actually throws a rod through the case, or otherwise suddenly self-destructs, and you THINK you know what you would do in that situation, NO YOU DON'T! Because it will be so sudden you won't have time to react.

Sure, this can happen with any engine in any vehicle, but in the case of this recall there were thousands of reported and verified issues before this recall became official. And, there are more and more engines breaking down, as you have seen yourself. This means there is a real problem. I'm just not so sure GM is really doing what they need to do. I'm not sure myself what they should be doing, but it sure feels like they're playing a numbers game and trying to placate folks (NHTSA and customers) with this Pico test. That's why I've been trying to find one, single instance of a motor being repaired/replaced as the result of a Pico test, and I cannot find one such case anywhere. That, right there, is quite odd to me.

Changing to 40w oil is indicative that there is worry about heat in the crankcase. What is causing this heat that is beyond far beyond what they expected in this engine? Friction, that's what. And, your pics only add confirmation to all the other findings already made public about where that friction is coming from. Why is it, then, that not one engine has been replaced due to Pico findings? Either the pico test doesn't work (which I doubt), or GM is trying its best NOT to replace compromised engines, and instead are trying to use 40w oil to eke out 150k miles out of engines that should SAFELY go 300k miles.

Edited August 18, 2025 by MrLeadFoot

GETGONE · August 19, 2025

5 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Until you've been in such a situation like that, you have no idea what the experience is like. It's also easy to sit and analyze something after the fact, but when you are in the middle of a downhill turn in the dark in a storm, and everything up until that point was working fine (the engine, brakes and steering reacting to the lightest touch), and then suddenly everything loses all responsiveness, you simply don't have enough time to react.

OK Chicken Little. You need to learn better defensive driving. I see you live in CA so you have no clue what winter driving is like in REAL weather conditions. Those Alenzas are garbage. I've been in every manner of out of control at some point since I started driving at 16 in a 71 Pontiac Safari wagon with bias plies and I'm 51 now.

newdude · August 19, 2025

13 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Until you've been in such a situation like that, you have no idea what the experience is like. It's also easy to sit and analyze something after the fact, but when you are in the middle of a downhill turn in the dark in a storm, and everything up until that point was working fine (the engine, brakes and steering reacting to the lightest touch), and then suddenly everything loses all responsiveness, you simply don't have enough time to react. I can tell you that at that moment, navigating a 90 degree downhill turn in a storm at night becomes a critical manuever when you have no engine power and no electrical power to your steering or brakes. I'm just lucky everyone else on the road saw that I was suddenly going too wide, and too fast into that turn, and all stopped. Ironically, it was at that moment I realized just how good those Bridgestone Alenzas are in the rain, because I seriously thought I was going off the road, and down the mountainside. I can only imagine what might happen if an engine completely seized or self-destructed on a highway turn at night in the rain.

I have deliberately turned off vehicles in the past to understand how to control a vehicle when it loses power.

Getting a license is waaaayyyyyyy tooooo easy in the USA. There is no actual teaching being done in terms of actual car control or what to do in emergency situations. Its some BS permit driving with your parents who you "hope" are good at driving to teach you, a 5 hour course and then "here you go kid knock yourself out".

MrLeadFoot · August 19, 2025

13 hours ago, GETGONE said:

OK Chicken Little. You need to learn better defensive driving. I see you live in CA so you have no clue what winter driving is like in REAL weather conditions. Those Alenzas are garbage. I've been in every manner of out of control at some point since I started driving at 16 in a 71 Pontiac Safari wagon with bias plies and I'm 51 now.

So, we are flexing our manhood now, are we? Oh wait, you can't, you're 51.

How about I brag all day long about what a great driver I am, having raced cars, having lived in NY, driving in blizzards in my manual transmission 68 Camaro SS, and flying down the highway in my 78 Trans Am 455 with tornadoes around me in Nebraska, but who gives a rat's a$$? Would any of that contribute to this thread? No, so stop being so immature, and let's get back to the subject of this thread, shall we?

You always seem to be so combative in your posts. Whatever you must be going through, I sincerely hope things work out for you.

Edited August 19, 2025 by MrLeadFoot

MrLeadFoot · August 19, 2025

5 hours ago, newdude said:

I have deliberately turned off vehicles in the past to understand how to control a vehicle when it loses power.

I had a 69 El Camino with no power steering and no power drum brakes, so that's not the issue. The issue is when you are in a downhill turn and the wheel is turning easily, and the brake pedal is an easy push, and as you continue turning everything suddenly stops "assisting", the vehicle continues moving faster, and the steering feels like it's pulling you in the opposite direction. Sure, you can muscle it, IF YOU HAVE TIME to react. And, if it's raining, and you yank that wheel to overcorrect, you can break traction. The stock Alenzas on 22s are way better in the rain than the stock Duehlers on the 20s, and at the time I had the stock 22s on the vehicle which turned out to be a blessing. Turning in an intersection at a low speed is a much different animal, in terms of having time to react, compared to an egine suddenly seizing at highway speeds. That's all I'm saying.

Can we get back to our regluarly scheduled programming now?

Edited August 19, 2025 by MrLeadFoot

MrLeadFoot · August 19, 2025

On 8/18/2025 at 8:49 AM, newdude said:

This engine would not turn by hand initially and would not crank. Tech was able to persuade it a bit finally and did get it to bar over by hand but it was a struggle.

Just curious, is it standard practice for them to try to turn it over by hand in a case like this, or were they just simply trying to do it for grins given the nature of this recall?

Edited August 19, 2025 by MrLeadFoot

newdude · August 19, 2025

1 hour ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Just curious, is it standard practice for them to try to turn it over by hand in a case like this, or were they just simply trying to do it for grins given the nature of this recall?

This was a result of realizing the initial diag of a transmission valve body was wrong. It had a P code for loss of park or something like that. We had to try and move the truck and found out that the engine wouldn't crank with 2 different jump boxes. Tech went out with a big breaker bar and that's when he found out it wouldn't turn.

The transmission code set because the engine stopped. Being an LT Trail Boss 6.2 it has the electronic console shifter. Transmissions with that shifter, the engine must be running to shift in and out of park (needs hydraulic pressure to make the shift). Column shift trucks are still cable operated so just simply key on engine off allows you to shift in and out of park.

GETGONE · August 20, 2025

11 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

You always seem to be so combative in your posts. Whatever you must be going through, I sincerely hope things work out for you.

Only towards you because your posts are SO outlandish and childish sounding.

MrLeadFoot · August 20, 2025

7 hours ago, GETGONE said:

Only towards you because your posts are SO outlandish and childish sounding.

See what I mean?

OK, big man, you got the last word. I've got no more words for you. Now, can we get gone, like your handle says, and move on? Sheesh.

Edited August 20, 2025 by MrLeadFoot

MrLeadFoot · August 21, 2025

On 8/19/2025 at 12:59 PM, newdude said:

This was a result of realizing the initial diag of a transmission valve body was wrong. It had a P code for loss of park or something like that. We had to try and move the truck and found out that the engine wouldn't crank with 2 different jump boxes. Tech went out with a big breaker bar and that's when he found out it wouldn't turn.

The transmission code set because the engine stopped. Being an LT Trail Boss 6.2 it has the electronic console shifter. Transmissions with that shifter, the engine must be running to shift in and out of park (needs hydraulic pressure to make the shift). Column shift trucks are still cable operated so just simply key on engine off allows you to shift in and out of park.

Thanks for the explanation. I learn something new every day.

Snow White · August 26, 2025

On 8/18/2025 at 11:49 AM, newdude said:

This engine would not turn by hand initially and would not crank. Tech was able to persuade it a bit finally and did get it to bar over by hand but it was a struggle. Can't wait to see what the one that was towed in looks like. That recent tow in still runs too, its not seized up completely yet.