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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/10/2020 in Posts
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I know it’s fun to be the headlight police on this forum, but Diode Dynamics does make LED bulbs that are designed to work in halogen housings without scattering light and glare everywhere. Maybe he paid a little more, got the good stuff and aimed ‘em correctly. Or maybe he didn’t and is blinding people. I personally don’t care either way. https://www.diodedynamics.com/led-bulbs/sl1-led-headlight.html3 points
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Did paint correction to remove the dealer installed swirls. Used the nanoskin clay mitt, then hit it with my DA and Meguiars 205 with a white pad. Had a few spots that needed 205 with a orange pad. Followed that up with collinite 845. My first time using it. I have been a Zaino user since 2004 and wanted to try something different. Goes on and off easily if you apply it thin. Think it turned out pretty good. Will see how it holds up.2 points
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I got the Sealight LEDs on it and it does give it a nice cut off line. I was surprised the stock housing works so well with LEDs. I also did aim them down to not be a dick. I drove behind my friend with a Charger for about two hours a couple weeks ago at night and I did ask him if they were super annoying and he didn’t notice my headlights and didn’t blind him. Whenever I’m parked in front of a wall at night time I’ll try to remember to take a picture of the lights to demonstrate the light cutoff. I’ll also note that I came from a KIA Rio and ‘upgraded’ to HIDs on it and that housing was NOT meant for HIDs or LEDs. After about a week of a ton of people flashing their brights at me I took them off and went back to regular bulbs. I haven’t had anyone flash their brights at me since I’ve installed them and adjusted the lights lower quite a bit. I don’t try to be a dick on purpose.2 points
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LED's in a halogen housing I am guessing? On coming traffic just hates you... Try replacing them with the correct housings so they work better and you aren't blinding others. I will say though the Stamped Chevrolet in the grill is growing on me, though I still prefer the bowtie. Tyler2 points
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That's crap. I had a problem a few years back with my Nissan Altima because I had disconnected the battery to clean the terminals and forgot about it, and went to go get emissions tested. I failed because obviously it was still relearning. So I came back in a few days after I confirmed that all of the readiness monitors had completed their tests. It saved in their system that I was just there a few days prior and they told me I was supposed to wait a week minimum. But they ended up passing me anyway. I told them it was just the battery.1 point
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Just picked up an AT4, needed better towing for my cargo trailer toy hauler conversion, ZR2 just wasn’t cutting it! Plus the 8-speed shutter was an issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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2015 Silverado 4.3 now 110,000 miles at 2600 hours. 42.3 mph. Subtracting the above from this the last 6K miles have been at 48 mph! Pace is picking up. MPG is going down1 point
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You should be reporting this to NHTSA. That is a serious fire risk. If those wires are getting hot enough to melt plastic it could start a fire. Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk1 point
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2015 Silverado with 146,674 miles and 3,674 hours. 39.92 mph average...not bad1 point
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I’m pretty sure these should clear even 17 inch wheels, for those of us the went down to 17 inch wheels since the spare tire on these new Gen trucks is still a 17 inch. It would just have to be a low offset wheel to clear the outboard portion of the caliper. Pics are of both types of spares on 2020 Sierras at a local dealer of mine. Can anyone confirm this to be true? I just need to clear my 17 wheel barrels, my wheels have a concave and zero offset to clear the caliper width..1 point
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HD trucks don't have the thermostat in them. That's a half ton owners problem.1 point
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@ noJeepshere…. As mention previously, I have modified the '96 Silverado storage bin in my '17 Silverado. 1. I had to modify the Bin 1st to get it to fit better in the space; I used a heat gun to soften the end mounting boss & reform it so it was flush to that end, so it would fit closer to the fender support. 9Be aware there's an aluminum plate molded in the boss area) 2. I removed the bottom hold down screw boss by heating the area & twisting it out. This allowed it to fit flush to the bottom of the battery tray. 3. I drill (3) holes in the bottom of the box in line with (3) of the tray's mounting bolts. 4. I had to buy M6 x 1.5" lg bolts at Lowes along with washers to be able to screw into the exiting mounting holes. The bolts that were removed are only approx. 1" long and will not contact the threads from the inside of the box. 5. I also modified the Box cover in (2) areas; the hinges were straightened some so I could install the Lid with the fender support brace in place. I also heated & formed a recess in the lid top to allow the Lid to open farther before hitting the support brace. Attached are pictures of the project. Let me know if you have any questions. I've stored my jumper cables & miss. stuff in this Bin. Thanks for the idea. BTW, I bought the bins at LKQ Pick your parts salvage lot for about $6. (I pulled 2 bins off trucks just in case I needed the 2nd one.)1 point
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I changed based on all the talk of the clearance issues with the bottom spacer. The extra 1/2 inch was a bonus!1 point
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LOL! Nothing says eBay mods faster than the fake HIDs that blind everyone everywhere the person goes. So freakin annoying. Makes me want to punch people.1 point
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Looks Great! Love the White custom! That's one of the reason I chose the custom. Anybody else reminded of the storm troopers from Star Wars when looking at the white custom?1 point
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Nice truck. I like those headlights more then the custom ones but I prefer the custom grill without the bow tie. I wish we had some aftermarket options for headlights.1 point
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Had a 2014 Silverado LTZ that was a great truck with absolutely zero issues. Traded for a 2018 Sierra SLT Z-71 that was a complete POS vibration issues and the dreaded 8 speed issues. So I rolled the dice and jumped on this 2020 AT-4 with the 6.2 and the 10 speed so far I am loving it. Keeping my fingers crossed that it holds up. I sure love the way it looks.1 point
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yeah I think theirs better options than the ranchos for sure....and still inexpensive and the GM kit doesn't require new CV axles....you can run em just like any other leveling strut....they just have em available and it comes in their kit.....not bad idea and you can buy them seperately Eibach is probably best leveling strut currently....belltech makes one too but not familiar with them, see them in a lot of lowered vehicles1 point
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These are x10s , i think it’s very minor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Just got back home after my wife's surgery and have completed extending my camera cables so I could swap the trailer plug with the video cable connectors from the bumper to the bed. It was a success and am very happy with the results and hope this helps everyone that tows a goose neck or fifth wheel. I purchased the cables from PASTERNACK (www.pasternack.com) 866-727-8376, Sales Person was Derek Burkett with the following part numbers. The last two digits are the length. I ordered 36" which worked great, but some folks may want to order another 12". The total cost including taxes and shipping was less than $100. a. Rear view camera cable (black) PE3W08444-36, description. Black FAKRA Jack to FAKRA Plug Cable Using LMR-100 Coax. b. Inside camera cable (Water Blue which is a universal cable to connect to the Orange cable) PE3C2779-36, description. Water Blue FAKRA Jack to FAKRA Plug Cable Using LMR-100 Coax. To install you will need to remove the bumper plug and the bed plug. The plugs have a metal squeeze clip that you need to press from the backside, the bumper can be accessed from behind the bumper and bed plug will require you to remove the rear taillight to access the rear of the bed plug. Your owners manual explains on how to remove the rear taillights. On the bumper plug video cables you will need to slide the red clips back and then push down on the release tab to release the jack from the plug. Next on the 7 pin connector you will slide the light grey clip back and then push down on the release tab to release the 7 pin connector (I found it easier to completely remove the grey clip due to access). I installed the bed plug first which will require you to remove some of the spray-on bed liner and make adjustments to the metal squeeze clips to accommodate the Pyle National Plug and the thicker bed wall. It makes it easier to do a test fit before applying cables. I spent many hours searching and calling, but I couldn't find anyone that would supply waterproof connectors, so you will need to tape these up to keep out moisture. The pictures will tell the story and I did finish up by using cable ties to secure the cables to the 7 pin cable harness from the bed plug to the bumper plug.1 point
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I have a Denali as well, so please don’t take this the wrong way. You are never going to be happy with the Bridgestones, they are subpar tires. I know out of principle we should be able to make the dealer be responsible for the fix but the fact is they never will be. Most of you who can afford a Denali know the concept of time is money. My vote is you get a set of Michelin’s and move on with your life. Should we have to fork out another $1k on tires on top of an already expensive truck, no, but that’s the reality of the situation. On top of that, even if the dealer could get a set of good tires, they probably wouldn’t be able to balance them properly. Get the Michelin’s from discount tire, at least they stand behind them and will make it right if the new tires don’t fix your issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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I like the factory look!....theres a few others on here that have done same with stock wheels, i cant see why i would ditch my rims when i actually like them, lol....heck i am waiting for my stock tires to burn out cuz i cant see replacing perfectly good sneakers.1 point
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Yes you are correct on the 'lift kit' thing. Geometrically speaking, a lift kit actually makes your truck more susceptible to damage/breaking. I thought about going with the 3.0 Kings with internal bypass but I'm really not going to romp this truck hard enough to need that. They are super Gucci though! ? The standard short bed was tough to track down and I appreciate a longer wheelbase for offroading (more stable at high speeds). Next in order is to finish the rear end with the Deaver U182 leaf pack and Camburg extended shackles. The leaf pack says 3" of lift but in order to keep my ride height I'll utilize extended shackles to compensate for the lift all while improving the suspension feel. After that; she'll be ready to bounce so 35's and fiberglass fenders all around! First Woops.mov1 point
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Just an old man's opinion, but if it was me I would hold off on any exhaust modifications on that 2.7 turbo 4 unless you want your truck sounding like a fart can ricer.1 point
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not the best quality gif Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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If we could hand out trophies on the internet, we would most certainly give you one.1 point
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So then don’t do it and be on your merry way. Some people like it some don’t. It does change the tone for the better IMO. Carry on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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On my 6.2 I used to get 18 to 19mpg after my 6” lift and 22x12 with 35s I now get 11.4mpg1 point
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