HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[Dunc]

do you think you could do a set of brackets for the tl projectors? if not, a set of those without the rx350 slot cut just marked in case ?

The picture above is an updated version which I'll be test fitting this weekend hopefully, but perhaps not until next Tuesday when some supplies are delivered. But in order to do a TL bracket I would need a TL projector so that I could measure everything. Assuming these work out as I anticipate, I could definitely have some machined without the slotted holes for the RX mounts and then just use a sharpie to mark them. That definitely wouldn't guarantee that they would fit a TL though unless the TL is same size and shape size the clearance are crazy tight. 0.0082" is basically no clearance in reality assuming 3* of rotation is needed which I'm doubting.

 

Unfortunately I have a pretty old autocad program and I can't add some neat exploded text to this bracket that can be cut out...well easily at least :/

[Langer19]

I installed my 35W 6000K HID kit for my low beans the other day on my 2015 Silverado 1500 High Country. I'm currently having some issues with the DRLs and was wondering if anyone has seen anything similar? If I turn the truck on with the lights on auto and put it into drive the DRLs will not turn on. If I'm in park and turn the lights all the way on, then back to auto, then put it into drive the DRLs will stay on. Anyone know why this is happening and what I can do to fix it?

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

 

 

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Edited April 3, 2015 by Langer19

[morrislee]

I installed my 35W 6000K HID kit for my low beans the other day on my 2015 Silverado 1500 High Country. I'm currently having some issues with the DRLs and was wondering if anyone has seen anything similar? If I turn the truck on with the lights on auto and put it into drive the DRLs will not turn on. If I'm in park and turn the lights all the way on, then back to auto, then put it into drive the DRLs will stay on. Anyone know why this is happening and what I can do to fix it?

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Do you have a capacitor within a relay harness? or CANBUS is built into the ballasts?

[Langer19]

 

Do you have a capacitor within a relay harness? or CANBUS is built into the ballasts?

Yeah the kit came with an error canceler capacitor and a wire relay harness. Would the three prong headlamp fuse affect the DRLs at all?

 

 

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[morrislee]

Not trying to be offensive, but do you know how the capacitor and the relay work? It helps troubleshooting the issue you have.

 

either your PWM or the DRL voltage could not start your relay to close the circuit, that is where I would start. Try a different relay. Relays here are usually rated for 12v, trying to get it to close the circuit on 6v PWM is way too hard for sure. Make sure the capacitor is between the OEM headlight power and the relay

[nickstl77]

So I did this retro today in my 14' Silverado. Worked great, drove about 10 miles and the lights shut off. Got back home, fuse was blown. Checked all grounds, replaced fuse (25amp mini). Still no lights now, fuse isn't blowing again though. My halogen fogs still work, turn signals OK, high beams ok. Nothing when I turn the HID's on though. What else should I check??

[morrislee]

So I did this retro today in my 14' Silverado. Worked great, drove about 10 miles and the lights shut off. Got back home, fuse was blown. Checked all grounds, replaced fuse (25amp mini). Still no lights now, fuse isn't blowing again though. My halogen fogs still work, turn signals OK, high beams ok. Nothing when I turn the HID's on though. What else should I check??

Change back tp halogens, see if they still work, if they do, next thing is the relay you should test, see if you can run the HIDs without the relay, it might flicker, but if it does, means ballasts and the bulbs are ok.

[nickstl77]

I put the halogens back in, they work fine. One thing about them though, when I first plugged them back in, they flased on for about 3 seconds then shut back off (while key was on). If I turned the truck off with the key and turned it back on, the halogen bulb stayed off. Waited a few minutes and turned on again, halogens worked fine. Drove for 30 minutes with 2 stops in the middle with the truck turned off. Halogens worked without any issue.

 

I've pulled all the HID stuff back out for now because this truck is my DD and I can't have it with half ass headlights.

 

I feel like I must have missed something. I do have 3 pieces of the kit that I didn't use and don't fully understand where they are even supposed to go. Pictures of them below. It's very confusing for me because I originally ordered the Silverado Spec kit from TRS, then had to change it because I was using the FX-R projectors rather than the OEM projectors. So I'm honestly not sure exactly what parts I'm supposed to be using at this point. The 3 parts in the second picture I DID NOT USE. Can someone explain to me if I was supposed to use them, and if so, where??

 

 

[morrislee]

You dont seem to have any capacitors, that is why the bulbs are kicking off. PWM is not good enough to keep the relay harness up, (PWM brings the voltage from 0v-12v-0v-12v....... really fast) you need a capacitor to even out the relay. What you can do, go to a local hardware store and get a 16v 4700uF capacitor, stick the ends to the relay's ends (where they receive power from the OEM head light connector)

 

I dont see 2 leads that will go to the battery, i only see one. I am guessing it is taking negative from common ground from the input anyway. More efficient design.

 

Parts in second picture is for bi-xenon shutters I am sure, silverados might not need them if you didnt want to use the shutter for your high beam. (I am guessing you can tether them to your highs if your FXR are bi-xenon, so you will have 4 high beams!)

 

And for the second picture (top left hand corner part), that is a wallet, it is extra shipped, you might as well ship it back to me

 

Good luck buddy!

Edited April 5, 2015 by morrislee

[nickstl77]

I actually did have a capacitor from TRS but for some reason left it out of the picture.

 

Can someone explain how I can test my bulbs direct to the battery?

[morrislee]

I actually did have a capacitor from TRS but for some reason left it out of the picture.

 

Can someone explain how I can test my bulbs direct to the battery?

 

I have actually watched a few video, some kits should come with a 9006 connector to 2 bare wires, connect those to the battery, 9006 to the ballast and to the bulb (connect to the battery last though, or ballast wont fire)

 

if you dont have those, you need 2 wires to do that.

[Crf450r420]

I put the halogens back in, they work fine. One thing about them though, when I first plugged them back in, they flased on for about 3 seconds then shut back off (while key was on). If I turned the truck off with the key and turned it back on, the halogen bulb stayed off. Waited a few minutes and turned on again, halogens worked fine. Drove for 30 minutes with 2 stops in the middle with the truck turned off. Halogens worked without any issue.

 

I've pulled all the HID stuff back out for now because this truck is my DD and I can't have it with half ass headlights.

 

I feel like I must have missed something. I do have 3 pieces of the kit that I didn't use and don't fully understand where they are even supposed to go. Pictures of them below. It's very confusing for me because I originally ordered the Silverado Spec kit from TRS, then had to change it because I was using the FX-R projectors rather than the OEM projectors. So I'm honestly not sure exactly what parts I'm supposed to be using at this point. The 3 parts in the second picture I DID NOT USE. Can someone explain to me if I was supposed to use them, and if so, where??

 

 

These newer systems have external ignitors, but I don't see them in your pictures. Based on what I see your kit is also a 35 watt kit, so you need capacitor on the one lead that connects to the factory wiring. It needs two if it is a dual connection system, but only noticed one with a quick look at the pictures. With the single connection you also have to flip the lead to the factory connection. If you said it had capacitors then you might be talking about the ignitors and still need a capacitor for proper day time function.

 

Edit. I don't have these new ones, but I'm pretty sure the external ignitior goes after the ballast and before the bulb. The capacitor goes on the stock connector and before the relay. The relay then goes the ballasts, to ignitors, and finally the bulbs.

Edited April 6, 2015 by Crf450r420

[nickstl77]

The igniters are the chrome colored square boxes that connect to the ballasts in my picture.Also, it's a 50w kit, not a 35w. It's the Morimoto XB55 system.

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/ballasts/morimoto-xb55-d2s-hid-xenon-ballasts.html#.VSHoxPnF-g0

Edited April 6, 2015 by nickstl77

[FastWS6TA]

We do lots of fxr upgrades and tonight I forced myself to take a few minutes to stop and get a quick comparison video and pics. This is comparing the FXR with 35 watt setup to the OEM GMC Sierra headlight projector. I can never get good videos of light output from my phone so I apologize if the video doesn't show ever thing you hoped.

 

 

 

 

 

 

High Beam mode on FXR

[FastWS6TA]

Now that I am back from vacation I plan to have the rear install method adapters done for the Sierra. Pics this weekend I hope.